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Thanks. Normally I would just put a new one in, but my old one only has about 10K miles on it! Thanks Tom

My 2.5 rebuild is almost out of the shop, and I'll begin the process of bolting it back up. I got a 2.5 out of a 70K '01 Cherokee from the junkyard, hopefully it's good! :eek: 3 questions about the trans. One is the input shaft. It's sludgy looking, and doesn't move in and out as smoothly as I'd like it to. What is the process of cleaning and lubricating this for use? Any solvents I should avoid? Can I use the same clutch from an 87 to 2002 AX-5? Lastly, I'm going from internal slave to external. I'm going to have to buy the slave, but will the rest of the plumbing still be the same? This is foreign territory for me; I want to bolt up the trans and engine and drop them in at the same time. I want to have the trans ready to go at that time, so I don't have to do any arm-breaking work once it's in. THANKS! Tom :popcorn:

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Whoops. I wasn't at TDC. Got it to TDC, and rotor was pointing between cylinders 2 + 3. The question is, can I pull the distributor out and put it back in in the proper orientation? I just want to be able to move this truck around.....any idea if that will work? Thanks guys :brows: Tom

Plug wires are ok. Gas had Stabil in it; timing shouldn't be off, unless the chain jumped a tooth or something, which at 187K miles, I guess is possible. What is the correct timing for the 2.5? Do I disconnect the distributor module to check it? Thanks Tom

Ok spent a little time with the non-moving MJ in the yard today. Neighbors want it started worse than me! Unscrewed the fuel lines - the pump works. Looks like, after cranking, that the butterfly down the throat of the TB is wet with gas, too. So I'm getting fuel. Also getting blue spark. Fuel, air, spark. Check. Any ideas? :headpop:

If it's a blue white spark it's enuff. If it's orange it's weak. You may have an ECM problem. Recently it seem to me that there's alot of "old" wiring problems surfacing... fusible links, relays burnt, coatings wearing through etc... Make sure all is well in the power side of things Latch key. fuel pump. Yeah, my plan is to disconnect the fuel line, turn the key on and see that gas comes out -- and not sludge LOL.

I have one -- I'm definitely getting spark, just not sure if it's brisk enough for combustion. I'm going to chase down the fuel end of this for awhile.

I have one -- I'm definitely getting spark, just not sure if it's brisk enough for combustion. I'm going to chase down the fuel end of this for awhile.

Seemed like good spark. By the time I got around to cranking it, it was dark, so any spark looks good then. I did dribble some gas in there, no dice. Ran out of starting fluid, which I love. Have to get some more. I'll have to check the injector, thanks Jeff, after that. I didn't really mind changing the CPS because I'd like all newish sensors when the rebuild is done, but I'm not sure that's why it didn't start in the first place. I had SOME spark, just not a GOOD spark, so I thought -- but it was daytime when I first checked. Bad CPS = no spark or poor spark? :dunno:

OK, replaced the crank position sensor. Thanks for the tips on lowering the transfer case a bit, really made the job easy. Is there a way to put the thing in backwards?! :) Pulled the 4th plug wire, hooked up the jumper cables, looks like a decent spark -- still no startie. Guess I should check for fuel next. Just pull off the inlet line and turn the key on - that's the right next step?? Thanks guys Tom :nuts: BTW in this picture, I installed the CPS with the part facing you in the picture towards the bellhousing.

That's where I'm starting. Just got it. Is it up high on the drivers' side bellhousing as well? I took a quick look up there and couldn't even see it. Gonna be a messy job, with all the oil under there! :eek: Any tips on getting it out/in??? Tom :cheers:

hey Pete- not that long ago. Plugs, cap, rotor, wires. I'm pretty good about it. It just started losing power, not really missing or idling rough. I wasn't that concerned, but I figure I'd like it running when the swap is a go, so that I don't get a new block in there and have some electrical gremlin. O2 sensor is new. Probably will get a CPS and MAP sensor now rather than wait until the new engine is done. I know the CPS can prevent it from starting, and the TPS won't; what about MAP? Thanks Tom

Hey guys, The 87 was starting to run badly, sounded/felt like it was going on 3 (instead of 4 cylinders). I was driving it anyway, with the core 2.5 in the back going in for rebuild. I was waiting on Mopar's new 2.5 cam, which was "backordered" and now "cancelled (anyone know anything about this?)" Anyways, I didn't care it was running badly, it was getting a new engine. One day it wouldn't start at all. Cranks, but no start. Seems to be getting spark, but it looks weak(?). RENIX scares the hell out of me, so where to begin? Any sensor that would cause it to run crappy then not at all? What? All of them? LOL! :cheers: Tom

hey for my rebuild, bought an ax-5 out of a 2000 cherokee with low mileage. Boneyard clipped the hydraulic line! All I have is some plastic tubing sticking out of the trans. Does the external slave kit come with everything? Any potential problem in mating this to my clutch cylinder and plumbing on the stock 87??? Thanks! Tom (full of questions) :nuts:

3/16" is the size. I replaced all the line from just behind the gas tank to the height-sensing proportioning valve. I actually deleted the valve altogether and got a longer brake hose from the axle (95 Dakota -- thanks Pete). You could use unions to splice in a clean piece of brake line, but it's not recommended (yes, I've done it before). Hope this helps.

Hey guys- I'm a pretty good wrench-turner. Did my lift, can do most things under the hood, but never had an engine completely apart -- I mean, changed head gaskets, lifters (thanks, Jeff), etc. I bought a spare 2.5L engine to have rebuilt, and I have no intention of rebuilding it myself -- don't have the tools or know-how. I found a guy to do the honing, boring .030, head work, etc., but he made a point to say "I don't assemble 'em -- I'll put the rings on the pistons for you, but I don't assemble them." Now I know seating the rings on the pistons properly is important. How much know-how do I need to assemble the parts if I have no experience doing so? Should I find a place that will do the assembly and all? I'd hate to do something incorrectly and have to pull the motor again, or, worse yet, trash it. Or is this something anyone with a shop manual ought to be able to do? One other question, maybe getting ahead of myself: when you're ready for start up on a Renix engine, how do you set the initial timing? I've always seen, on the underhood labels, that timing is "set at the factory" and not to be changed. Just point the rotor at the #1 cylinder TDC and fire her up? Or is there more to that? Thanks for listening! Tom :popcorn:

what's the best points to grab a 2.5 at? My old chevys had loops to hook the chain onto. Should I take off the head and use the head bolts?? Thanks! Tom :USAflag:

rebuilder? Cheaper and easier (with warantee) just to buy an Autozone/Pep Boys unit, and pick your amperage.

so in the four flat connectors, you have the bare one, and the three sunk into the plug; from bare on down the line, what is the universal order? brake, left, right, and lights on -- what order?? Thanks Tom

no, it makes sense -- thanks for taking the time. So from a 4-flat connector, what wires splice into what from the truck wires?

is there a nice plug in kit to do the flat 4 wire trailer wiring on our MJ's? If not, what's the best place, and the right wires, to splice, to get'r done? Thanks! Tom :brows:

not to start a whole new topic, but while we're on it, are there any aftermarket 2.5 cams? Anyone used em?

Yup. I got one, as Pete recommended, for a 95, and it was 3-4" longer than original. I did away with the return line and the proportioning valve, and I actually have pretty solid tube from front to back now. Don't need to go through THAT again. Thanks Pete Tom :redX:

more important, the ba10/5 xfer case is 21 spline, and the ax15 is 23, no? Tom :popcorn: