wyk

I have a 2.8 that is fairly healthy. Problem is the carb is acting up now. It takes forever for the choke to come off. I can find an E2SE cheap enough, but I was wondering if anyone has used one of these?: http://www.piercemanifolds.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=K490

What year is the cut-off for smog on California vehicles? The bud I bought mine from said he didn't have to smog it to reg it this year.

All clear now. Obliged.

I assume it also works ok in my axles? Oh lord, $50 a gallon for redlines gl-5. Let' seee, both axles, xfer case, tranny...sounds like almost $70 worth of fluid? Help.

So, uh, what should I use on my 86 2.8 5 speed then? Er....

Cool. Thanks, man.

The AX 15 in my 1990 had balky shifts into second and reverse all the time, and flat out did not want to shift into those gears when cold. I drained the oil that was in it and replaced it with Red Line MTL. Now there are no problems at all, even when cold. I'm gonna be swappin oil this week. Did you put in the standard MTL? I was just perusing Redline's web site and they have a lot of options in fluids nowadays. I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions on which one to go with for an AX5, or whatever it is in my 86 4X4 5 speed. I think I'll pick up the 75W140 for the rear diff while I am at it. http://www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=7

What? Are u usually involved in high speed chases or something? I have mud tires

Helicopters

There was a time while working recovery and towing back in Texas that I was on call 3 days a week and had to work half a Saturday as well. My hours off call were 8AM to 6PM, and I had to take lunch whenever I could find it, and often couldn't find it. My on call was Monday, Wednesdays, and Fridays from after 6pm until I showed up at work the next day. I would have killed to have a normal job with fixed hours. Well, some days. I did sort of enjoy the cowboy aspect and all the crazy stuff I saw. But, basically, you got to go where the business is. While I personally try to avoid stopping by near closing time(especially where food is concerned, as I do not like to eat someone elses' spit...), lunch time is the one time many other day workers have off to get stuff done. You can't fight that - nothing to do with consideration. Post office is gonna be full. Lines at the bank will be long. It is what it is. If they don't get you at lunch, then they'll have to get you on the way home...that sounds like closing time to me ;) WYK

I had a BMW M3 that had a clunky shift in it and was difficult to get in to 3rd rapidly. I replaced the transmission oil with redline and it made a HUGE difference. HUGE. I would suspect any synthetic would do the same. It may not fix bad, but it certainly makes bad work better.

Especially since all of the Cherokees I have seen in France were diesels ;) I love it when he tells Jeane Claude " - it was a TRAILER, not a building!" which makes Jeane Claude look at his mobile, confused.

Ugh(again). Hrm. I knew it wouldn't be an easy fix.

Ugh, then you better invest in some longer wheel studs sport............ I was thinking a 3/8" hub-centric spacer, and replace the bearings since they prolly are stock, anyways. I don't go wheelin. I just need to keep the wheels off the frame in moderate trail conditions. They just barely rub right now. As it sits, the looks really do not bother me much. I'm more worried about functionality. If I find I go wheelin more, then those spacers yer using may come in handy. Preeshiatcha, mang

Ugh, those are definitely too wide. Hrm... I need half that space.

The 1.5" spacers?

I don't need that much space yet. I am thinking just a 1/2" spacer for now since the minimum to clear the lugs without cutting them looks to be 1.5" for the ones yer talking about - far more space than i need or want. This is a DD, hunting vehicle - not a wheeler.

Wow, how much lug is left to bolt the wheels onto at that point? Or are you using a spacer that comes with lugs? Anyone know a good place to get one?

And speaking of width, has anyone tried some spacers on the rear of their lifted Comanche with stock rims? I want to keep my turbines, but with 31's and 32's, they are well inboard and rub the frame. I can see 1/4" working, but I need closer to 1/2". I'd hate to sheer the lugs.

never stopped me either, just make sure you with someone to pull you out. my mj is fun, have had too much experience with much else, but i plan on 4x4 and making it so the doors can be taken off and possibly a sunroof, fun 'nuff for summer for sure. good luck :banana: Unless I get stuck in sumthin deep and greasy(wheeling, I mean), my Colorado with a limited slip rear diff pretty much handles anything you reasonably throw at it. So much so that I think it's criminal to sell a 4X4 without a limited slip diff.

I have absolutely no reason to doubt you. But herein lies the problem; Chevy, in all their wisdom, made a 2bbl carb/intake combo that is longitudinally staggered. WTH? So this guarantees I can not find another 2BBL carb to replace this one without getting a new manifold or getting very creative with the mounting and linkage. I have heard some folks drilling the manifold so both sides can get the intake from a single carb - and apparently an MV1 bolts up. But since I can't do this myself, I would need a machine shop. So that's $150+ or so for a rebuilt MV1 and mebbe $100+ for the machine shop? Doesn't an MV1 only have one vacuum line for the advance? Will my heater work without vacuum lines on an 86 jeep? I have no AC. I did replace the e2se on my Blazer a couple years ago with a rebuilt carb from an 86 buick. It worked great, actually. But I dunno how long it will last. I sold it last year. I was actually eying this thing: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Rocheste ... ccessories WYK

1986, 31's, 4:10's, 5 speed, 2.8V6, 4X4, 3" lift, 18 city and 22 hwy. I go easy on it, though.

I'm talking about the little computer 'cable'/wire that goes to the carb. It's a 2.8 V6. I am looking at getting a rebuild. IS there a particular carb (Year/serial# or vehicle type)I need to look out for? WYK

My choke takes forever to come off. And sometimes it seems it just doesn't want to turn off. If I remove the cable to the carb will it also hurt it's metering performance greatly? WIll the choke stay on forever? How does it know?! ;)

i would also be willing to bet there are some a hole stories where a good ole boy stops and helps some poor idiot out, and somehow the stuck vehicle gets damaged some how, and the good ole boy is getting sued or billed for damage. He may be an idiot for letting the good ole boy near his vehicle in the first place... If you damage someone's vehicle, you should expect to have to pay for it, if not offer to do so right then and there. If you KNOW you are going to damage someone's vehicle, and it's not a safety or life and death situation, then there's very little reason to commit to the recovery. Let someone else whom has recovery experience pull a vehicle out and leave it undamaged. Even in a life or death situation, it may be prudent to leave the car as undamaged as possible so that it may further protect the individual trapped inside in case something shifts or falls. Depending on the difficulty and the vehicle and type of issues, a recovery will only run $40-$80 to get you out of a deep culvert, to maybe $400 for something that takes hours. If you rip the bumper off of a new vehicle, or damage a painted panel, or force them to visit a mechanic to fix suspension damage you incurred, that could have you see a bill 10X what a recovery tech would charge. Let the recovery person or the casualty pay for it, not you. Also make sure to point out any and all damage to the vehicle before you start your recovery, no matter how simple it seems. I often get a laugh, but I am dead serious when I tell people things like "You may get a few scratches on this panel here..." or "This might rip off your rear mud flap because it's stuck under the tree...", but folks appreciate it when you do not damage their vehicles, and they tend to sue you a lot less often when they tell you to go ahead even if it will add scratches, and your insurance will love you more and charge you less. The state police in Ireland often laughed at me when I carefully recovered drug lord cars out of bogs, hedges, rivers, what not, undamaged(many of the locals would have ripped it right out). It's a matter of principle and professionalism. I have pulled all manner of vehicles out of mud, trees, ditches, canals, rivers, lakes, mountains/cliffs, houses/buildings, drains, construction sites, sink holes, power poles and telephone poles, etc, all undamaged. Unless I can obviously tell the vehicle is already a write off, or someone's life is in danger, I won't do the recovery if I can not do it without damaging the vehicle any further. You should follow the same principles. Damaging someone's vehicle is rarely doing them, or you, any favors. But, then again, to me there is nothing worse than someone else having to clean up after my mess.