jeepcoma

I agree, and I'm willing to give them the benefit of the doubt. I've been super busy and have not reached out to them, after reading the past few comments I am wanting to keep waiting to see if they will reach out to me since they have obviously read this thread (and hopefully my comments). The thing that cheeses me is that the first line of my email to them as a prospective buy was I’m primarily going to be using this bumper for towing and I feel they did absolutely nothing to inform me of the downfalls and limitations of choosing their bumper for this application. Red tape and load ratings and liability, sure I understand the BS; if they made it clear they left the load rating up to the buyer and towing was unsupported, then fine I'd evaluate it the same way I would a home-built bumper (and their building skills are top notch) and get on with life. It's more the crummy approach to this whole situation I feel is unappealing. Everyone screws up at some point, it's a fact of life and it's OK. We'll get over it. The bigger question is, what is done to make it right after the fact is obvious.

That's very interesting. I will have to contact them as well. Before I ordered my bumper, I asked the following quesiton: I received a response from Brian:

I need a few as well. Shoot me a PM if you're willing to ship!

Gotcha. Pardon my ignorance, but what's the difference between a "full case" locker and what the Aussie does?

You liked the aussie in the front, why rule it out for the rear?

If the return spring is broken, it won't pop all the way to the top to turn off the e-brake warning light on the dash. It will probably release the brake from the tension in the cable, but not move the foot pedal high enough for the switch. You should be able to pull the release knob and pull the pedal up at the same time, see what happens?

I agree, the receiver was the reason I bought the bumper in the first place. I need it for towing not off-road duty. Before buying, I'd asked JCR about towing with it, receiver size, weight rating, etc and they said it's a regular 2" hitch and it's rated to tow what the truck's maximum capacity is. Interesting thread, if there's a problem with the bumper I'd like mine fixed as well. I've towed small lawn tractors around with it and didn't notice problems but I'm not so sure I want to drag my boat behind this.

My JCR rear bumper receiver is sloppy as well. I figured it was just the adjustable-height hitch I'm using. I can measure mine as well if it helps.

Yeah it's pretty nasty here, looks like I'm going to be stuck for a few days. More pics in my gallery, I'm uploading some now from tonight...

Dealer option? That's pretty cool. Looks exactly like mine, came with my '91 LWB. I'm pretty sure it's a Leer brand. Fit is perfect. Also saw this on a '92 LWB.

It sounds like you got everything, there's not much to it. The top nut is fastened in the engine bay along with the hydraulic line, the bottom nut is fastened in the cabin along with the linkage to the pedal, and that should do it.

It's probably just frozen to the firewall from rust and crud buildup. Spay with pb-blaster or similar, let soak. If it were me, I'd give it some sharp whacks with a hammer to break it free. Have you gotten a replacement yet? I ordered the Rhinopac M0112 and it's a nice piece, sturdy construction and made of metal. Far superior to the plastic piece of crap I pulled out. I ended up paying $30 shipped. I've got a discount code if you're interested, not sure what the current prices are though.

An '85 Eagle wagon was my first car. Got it for a dollar because it would constantly stall. That BBD carb and vacuum system was butchered beyond belief, but one Nutter bypass later and it ran like a dream. Eventually upgraded to the GM HEI ignition and put on a Weber 38 DGAS (did that out in my college parking lot during a blizzard) and it was nice. That was a great car and it was a sad day when it met the bumper of another vehicle :( To be honest when I was looking for the Comanche as another winter vehicle I had my eyes out for an SX/4 as well... just happened to find the Comanche first.

I think this could be it. Would better shocks help with it? I have the cheapo Monroe base shocks. Glad to hear I'm not the only one. "Quality" of shocks isn't what's important here, it's more question of "travel specifications" and "application". The best shocks in the world won't work if they are put in an application where they only have 1" of upwards travel before full extension, and the cheapest shocks you can find will outperform them if their specifications meet the usage demands. I found the stock XJ specs to work quite well with a regular MJ setup, but as soon as I got about 1-2" inches of lift in the rear from MT springs they completely sucked, because I was operating outside of their intended application range. Post up a part number of the shocks that you're running and any lift in order to help pick out something applicable.

Haven't posted much in here lately, and no new pics either. But, since the last post, I've done a few maintenence/upgrade type things. First off, after swapping in the MT springs I was getting a horrible clucking from the rear, and determined that the Monroe sensatracks I had swapped from an XJ were now no longer up to the job. With the stiffer spring rate, the rear of the truck rides higher, and the XJ spec shocks were about 1/2" from full travel with the truck unloaded and just sitting there. So any time I hit the slightest bump, or hit the brakes, or basically moved at all, the shocks would max out and hit their stops. Rockauto had a sale on the correct MJ part so I replaced both rears and it made a huge difference in ride quality, comfort, even stopping. Unfortunately I snapped off the threaded portion of the upper shock mount on the passengers side while loosening the old one. The threads must have rusted up a bit and I probably overtightened it at some point because it just twisted right off. Right now it's just running without being bolted in on the top, until I can think of a repair and get around to fixing it when it's not freezing out. I fixed my sticking clutch problem, detailed in that thread, but basically the old clutch master cylinder was completely trashed and jamming up. This was right before New Year's because I had to drive to Boston and back holding down the clutch just enough to keep it from sticking (if I released it), but not too much to ride the clutch, oh and during a snow storm. It was actually quite easy to replace, I saved myself a lot of time by simply drilling out the old roll pin instead of screwing with trying to punch it out. I didn't even have to bleed it. The clutch feels great now, like a whole new truck to be honest. Today I wired up an MSD 6A. I put a 6AL on my Camaro and noticed it helped it start idle a bit better, I was really looking for any sort of boost in mileage but haven't noticed much. Anyway, got one for $50 so the price was right to throw it on the Jeep. Very noticeable difference, from the first time I cranked it. It idles rock steady right from startup, is smoother at idle, smoother at all revs but especially feels better when clutching away from a stop. There's no way I'd pay full price for a brand new unit but they can be had pretty cheap used with enough patience. After that I removed the old sparkplugs (first time doing that since I got the truck a bit over a year ago) and installed Denso TTs. I wanted to install the 6A first to see if it made any difference by itself, and it most definitely did. I'd also replaced the cap and rotor about a month earlier. Now the ignition system is tip top and the HO purrs like a kitten.

What kind of shocks are you running? Mine made similar noises when my shocks were maxing out, they'd clunk when they reached the end of travel just like you're describing. You wouldn't be able to tell if they are reaching the end of travel just pushing up and down on the bumper to test if they are still damping.

How so? Are the Renix injectors undersized for the job?

It's a victory for us pickup truck drivers everywhere!

They are related. The Dnepr was the Ukranian version of the Ural, which was produced in Russia. Dnepr's usually have a bad rap due to quality control issues, and the parts that got exported to the US are generally bottom-of-the-barrel type stuff. Properly put together and maintained though they can be fine rigs, though certainly not suited to traveling today's highways. If long distance touring on the highways is your thing, do yourself a favor and get a Harley or BMW or something modern with high speed capabilities and reliability. For the right purpose though the Ural can't be beat for fun factor :cheers: Okay. Thought it was a Ural. :cheers:

It's a Yuri Special Dnepr, a combination of MT10-36 and MT11 Dnepr parts.

I'm not familiar with the specifics of the 2.5 but the following generally applies to EFI engines.. If you were running a carb I'd say to check the choke, but since it's EFI I'd check the coolant temperature sensor and also make sure that the high idle speed is correct (using an external dwell/tach, not the factory tach if yours has one). I'm not sure what the voltage specs are for the CTS but they must be out there, check it when it's sat overnight and it should be pretty close to the spec for the outside air temp. The Intake Air Temperature sensor could also be faulty but I think it'd take more than a minute or so for it to not stall when you're not playing with the throttle. How did you test the MAP and know it's working? Something to test is to unplug it and force the computer to run in speed density, which would eliminate the MAP sensor as a variable. Just for kicks, remove and plug the vacuum line from the EGR for testing. It removes one more variable. Make sure it's 100% closed, it doesn't take much for it to affect how the engine runs when cold. How do you know fuel pressure is good? You need a gauge to diagnose, nothing else will do (even if it "seems fine").

Any idea when the shocks were last replaced? New shocks will make a tremendous difference.

Not quite a Vette engine, it came from an Impala so has two-bolt mains and iron heads. Sounds like he hasn't done any computer tuning. I don't see a MAF sensor so it's already going to be in speed density mode, and also if he hasn't adjusted for the change in gearing the speed sensor in the transmission will be out of whack and in limp mode. Easy fixes, '95s run OBD1 which is quite easy to tune. Pretty cool! The LT1 is my choice as the ultimate engine in an MJ.

Right, but the 242 is not a permanent "full time" 4x4 system like I was referring to, it's selectable. I was thinking more along the lines of "all wheel drive" systems like the Subaru that are designed for road use more than off-road. I'm not all that knowledable about Subarus but I think the older models were primarily FWD, with torque going to the rear wheels in low traction situations. I would not hesitate using a 242 with a locked front and rear (in fact I'm hoping to swap one in this summer).

Amatuer opinion ahead, to not be taken as fact. Semi-educated guesses below: My only thought is that the caution is really intended for vehicles that do not have selectable 4wd and are permanently in their 4x4 mode. In general, those types of 4x4 systems are not quite "heavy duty" and are lighter weight, smaller, and not intended for "serious" off-road use. Those that are operated by a viscous coupling (or clutches or whatever) to differentiate power front and rear will send some power to slipping wheels, but not all of it, so by locking the front you'd be putting a lot more stress on the tcase differentiation (since it can no longer choose to distribute power between FR and FL but instead is forced to split it 50/50) which could lead to a lot of heat buildup and premature failure. Additionaly, and I think more importantly, even with regular driving where 4x4 is not needed, the front will not differentiate when turning (if power is applied), which forces the tcase's viscous coupling to act as the differential, something it's not designed to do.