MiNi Beast

hidden winch bumper, bigger battery install, cut rear quarters, welded rear, and in bed tire carrier. be seen staring here :yes: viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4976&start=465

And being as the axles were swapped an to hold me over till the 44/60 are done, I wanted to weld up the rear for the Dog party. So we welded weld the rear. So pulled the cover and found a little surprise :( seemed to look like a part of the pinon but it was good inside after looking at it and opening another beer we figured out what the hell it was... it was the tip of a pry bar, lucky it didn't do any damage except one small chip in the ring gear but nothing I'm worried about. Choppergar welded up the rear with ac rod forgot to take a after pic, but its welded and tested and it works.

well I finally plan on carrying a spare tire, one time stuck without one is only reason I need, lol, So i picked up a YJ tire carry from a buddy, Creepy Death, and figured I could use it in the bed as a cheap way to carry tire and yet have is secure and not bonce around in the back. And with my solid tool box and tire I figure this would help with a little weight over the rear axle. And with the tool box I welded it to the bed as I do not want to take it out for any reasons and with roughly a 8ft bed I wanted to be able to remove the tire carrier if needed to haul anything. And again it turned out how I expected it to and cost was under $20. will be running 37's so measured it to fit center with a 37" tire. So marked and drilled my holes and I didn't want to deal with crawling under the bed to add the nuts and two holes were above the cross member so be a pita, and I had forgot that a buddy, Creepy Death had given me some threaded bungs that would be perfect for this application, be the same as what we planed the use of them with mounting skid plates, easy to just drill hole weld bung and tighten bolt down. And with this I can easily unbolt the mount if needed. welded and painted bolted down 33" tire with 4.25" BS mounted, couple inches from bed floor now I plan to run a tonneau cover so wanted everything to fit under the bed rails, and the 33 is a perfect fit and with the 37" tire it will have a stock H1 rim with 7" back spacing, so still be under bed rail and will have to build a spacer adapter bolt plate to fit the 8 lug rim with that BS.

Well pretty common deal on the MJs is cut the lower section on the beds. And I found out last time at R&V why that is, they drag on rocks and get beat up so why not cut it out and make that much more room for tires as well. And as I plan to run full width axles with 37's I might as well make the room. Beside they were bent up anyways. before after Now need a rear bumper back there.

So a long time coming I had my over sized battery tilted in order to fit under the hood, wasn't good just haven't had the time nor the warmth to mess with it. Well being as everything was tore down, I thought I take care of it now. What needed to be done was the inner fender well had to be cut so the battery could sit straight as was a bigger battery then stock. So as well needed a new battery holder. So got to messing around and made one up and just welded it in and called it good. Worked out just as I said it would when I installed battery and said I needed to do this. lol fender cut and battery fitted bracket made and painted up with the bumper Works good, its tight at the bottom and once radiator is mounted the upper rubber hose fits snug against it and holds the battery down. will add a solid hold down later. Now being a over sized battery in this position, I had to remove the passenger side hood latch, which was no big deal as I plan to run hood pins anyways.

Empty Post

those tires are to chunk bad. It is best to not groove all the way to the outer edge. siped yes but full groove no.

well I put in a registration, so if accepted then I will be able to look at what you posted. :thumbsup:

sweet deal, they make 37's yet I hope. :brows:

more parts for build and borrowed tire groover from my man lover to groove some tires for Choppergar, he needs all the help he can get, :teehee: and a set a tires for me to run at the Dog party. :rock: priceless tool :bdr2: my template for steering box braces TJ brackets to hang leafs, be reinforcing these for use as only cause I do not have my factory LCA mounts. As well as my beefy shackles, (run for now, may need to run a boomarang shackle later. Got some steel from a buddy as well and some extra steel at a welding shop, their scrap stuff so just let me have what I need. Been tending to Nakita, she has been having mini seizures, :( so had her in the house for the last week while so damn cold out. She is doing better now but she is a old baby, just turned 11 this month. :beerbang:

your overlooking your lack of potential. front axle swap is straight forward unbolt everything and bolt it back up same way, and you alignment should not change unless you add a bigger lift in which would require to LCA and/or UCA. So buy a Haynes and follow it step by step to do swap. The rear, again pretty straight forward as well. look for said axle of your desire, being a D35, 8.8 or 8.25 or D44, many to choose from all have their advantage, which should be chosen based on your overall goal as so your not spending money on same thing twice, save money in the long run, now leaf perches just cut them off, grind them smooth and I recommend buying a new set ($20) way easier to work with, then I cannot believe you don't know someone that has or can weld for you, perhaps for some beer and food on a sat or something, if all else they can be install at a local welding shop for like a $50 at most, then the rest u-bolts, well need new no matter what axle you get, so you have $40 into new set of grade 10 ones, so you have roughly $110+friend or weld shop labor+ a set of axles for about ($250/$300) = So about $410 +gas=$450 roughly which is way better then your $1400 you were quoted. option as well is just buy a matching set of used gears and simply pay for the install kits and labor to have them installed, around here gear install goes for about $250 per axle, so gears be had for $100+$150(install kits)+$500(labor)= $750 still beats just the cost of labor you were quoted. Are you sure you don't want 4.10's? What are your goals or what are you using the truck for? figure that and go from there.

be putting D60 internals back together, mess with CB and try to figure it out and get it working, and hook up new 12v plugs in the truck. Have to start early going to be a long day. I think I may need to go get coffee now. :yes:

damn good one if they pay their part of rent. :yes:

what are you talking about and what is the question? heater blower or blower on the engine?

i'd dd it and beat the crap out of my other MJ. :D

:fs1:

x2 so only product is a windshield sticker?

:eek:

my doors are removable for same purpose. Only you have to tend to is the hinges on the body it self they tend to rip and will need to be reinforced or welded. then with that done then you should have trouble free sealing. :yes:

well got me a H.O. full block, as to replace my lower end, then going to pick up a head to rebuild with new valves as be doing a cam swap as well.

so what I go back with some air and yank them suckers.

no think I'm doing anything to it, as it is little cold out today....

yeah gone, only have the trac bar left. So now have to install the leafs come next week. Going to keep the D30 under it for now though as still not done with the d44. but getting closer. :yes:

you have pics of your MJ?

Electrical issue: I push the brakes and both blinker lights come on on the dash and my turn signals up front lite up, off the brake and lights are go off, yet my blinkers don't work via the switch. wire crossed perhaps or bad ground i guess? then now, last week, I turn on the head lights and I have no dash lights, I have lights outside but not inside. I'm puzzled.