husky410ohio

For me the I purchased the 88 4wd 4cyl for $100 (did not run) paid $100 to have it towed. Purchased 87 Comanche $100 for parts. My brother gave me the 350 chevy targetmaster 4 bolt main 350 and the SM465 with holly 650 cfm spreadbore double pumper carb (was in his CJ-7 and ran great). The motor mounts are made for this conversion from advance adapters and I also got the transmission adapter to the NP231 to SM465 from AA (spud shaft type) and also added the slip yoke eliminator from AA. The radiator is from Novak for this conversion but you have several companies that make radiators for the chevy motor conversion. Summit Racing has radiators too. I have an electric pusher fan in front and fan/clutch mechanical motor fan. I measured the drive shaft lengths and had custom clutch in Canton Ohio build me new drive shafts. I have many hours building and spent about $8000 (did not keep track how much I spent but this is what wife thinks it is). Note the fan and clutch I used are from the Jeep 4cylinder motor but the 88 fan was a reverse flow type (88 had a serpentine belt). I just put the fan in from the 87 which had clockwise rotation fan. I have not run it with the clockwise fan I have the gauges off and fixing fuel gauge now. Also the headers are made for the conversion I got from AA.

I have done this please see my pictures here. posted in the PUB forum: Willys Jeep Rally 2014, College Corner, Ohio, May 30/31http://comancheclub.com/topic/43152-willys-jeep-rally-2014-college-corner-ohio-may-3031/

Pictures from the Jeep Rally at Hueston Woods State Park last weekend.

I am driving my 88 comanche and camping at Hueston Woods State park for the May 30 and 31 Jeep Rally. I hope to make it this will be the longest trip driving it now with a 350 chevy/SM465/NP231.http://www.mw-willysjeep.com/ Richard

This is a picture of the back and a picture of the front. I have the bedsides at work and I am welding a 1/4" round rod around the inside wheel opening to give it some stiffness. I plan to offroad the the truck. https://cid-acd8ecd25256a1fa.skydrive.l ... IM0756.JPG https://cid-acd8ecd25256a1fa.skydrive.l ... IM0755.JPG

I called and he has them this is what he said: I do have bed side skins for the Comanche pickup. They are replacement skins that run from the top rail on the inside the whole way down the outside to the bottom edge. Price is $160 per side and they have to be shipped truck freight, so I would need your zip code at the very least before I could quote you shipping. I didn't know these were so popular, I haven't sold a set of these in years. I paid for a pair and I will pick it up Saturday.

I have asked large body shop supply houses and no bed sides or patch panels are available. I have the 7 foot bed and there is so much rust I touched the flare and they fell off both sides of the truck. I plan on drilling out all the spot welds to remove the bed sides and bending new patch panels on a sheet metal brake. I have a flange bending tool that I can weld the patches on. I have seen picture of this done before but I did a search on this site and can not find them or it was on another forum? This person said the bends are easy to make on a sheet metal brake.

DJM/78 when you got time let me know who sells the panels no rush. I have asked at body shops here and they will not help you if you are not an accident claim in Ohio. I have called all over the NE Ohio area and the large Cleveland body shop suppliers and they all told me they can not get bed side panels. For $65 each I would get 2 left and 2 right and gladly pay shipping.

Please email me the supplier for new bed side panels. Mine have big holes and rust. I have asked and searched all over and can not find any panels and was thinking of bending some sheet metal patches but if I can get a new panel or a patch panel that would save me time. It is a 7 foot bed. Thanks

I am swaping in a 350 chevy with a SM465 trans an NP231 in my 1988 MJ https://cid-acd8ecd25256a1fa.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/New%20album/HPIM0742.JPG

I have the advanced adapters V8 swap mounts on mine but have not run it yet. I think the rubber is molded into the bracket. I would send it back to AA.

Where can I get the drop pitman arm and steering box brace like in the picture from pilotblake?

I have advance adapter motor mounts that bolted up no no problem.

Where did you get the 2" chevy drop shackles from?

This the link for the cable. It was $67.39 http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku The bead locks are not balanced. I have other set of wheels to run on the street. I read the home made bead locks are not street legal. You need to check the bolts too after driving they can come loose. I got grade 8 bolts 32/wheel with a nylon patch on them I ordered from McMaster Carr so I hope they stay tight.

I would like to see a pic when you have your plug wires on. I just got my Lokar throttle cable on and my home made bead lok wheels together. here the pics:

I have been working on puting autometer gauges in the dash. the mechanical oil, and temperature gauge and a volt meter mounted where the idiot lights was. [/img] [/img] [/img]

I will take a picture in a few days when I got time. I had to tap a dent to get the header to clear the motor mount but they did fit ok. Hear is the pic with flanges welded on. I have not run the motor yet. Lot of work to get done. [/img]

I used the advance adapters headers except mine are plated and I got them at Summit Racing because they had them instock and are near me. I also used the AA motor mounts. I had 3 bolt flanges added to my headers welded on. At fist I tried cheap block huging headers but they did not fit. The steering shaft is too close to the engine. I saw Novak makes a special header to fit the tight space. They have a picture on there web site. I need to add the pictures to my project truck page: http://hometown.aol.com/husky410ohio/my ... /auto.html

4x4 posi-lok sells a Perm-Lok to permanently engage the central axle but it cost $94.29 http://www.4x4posi-lok.com/app_jeep.html My Jeep page: http://hometown.aol.com/husky410ohio/my ... /auto.html

When you get the springs out use a pipe wrench and unscrew the stops. Up here in the north coast mine I am sure never been off before was rusted on good. Had to pound and hammer it and spray PB blaster on it.

I put a Superlift 3" in mine I purchased from Tyres International http://www.tyres1.com I would have liked more lift but I am trying to control my budget and this lift was easy and cheap. I needed new coil springs, shocks and brake hoses anyway. The new coils are not much longer than the original springs but are heavier-thicker diameter wire and I think you need this for the added engine weight. I will try to get more pics from under so you can see the oil pan and axle clearance next week. The actual increase I measured in front was exactly 2" with this lift.

Here is my 350cid Chevy V8 project http://hometown.aol.com/husky410ohio/my ... /auto.html Click the link on my webpage to see the engine in the truck. I have a lot more work to go. I am not sure how to get a radiator to fit. I also want to rebuild the NP231 and put a wide chain in it and a 23 spline input shaft to mate to the SM465 trans. Do you have any more pics? I don't have exhaust headers yet and not sure if any block hugger header can fit so the pipes clear the starter, front axle, motor mount and upper control arms. http://store.summitracing.com/partdetai ... toview=sku