SBpunk

So one of the only places around I've found with a full leaf pack. Was hoping someone has had a recent product from them? Most of bad reviews are from years ago and just from looking at their kit they've tried to remedy some of the complaints. Thanks in advance

Looking for an MJ bucket seat bracket (passenger side but will buy both if I have to) or a pre 94 flat style XJ manual bracket shipped to 73703

Sorry again for the late reply. Its a HO motor (1992) 4.0. I might've got some bad info but when it warms up a bit more I'm probably just going to go back to the stock injectors. The only aftermarket anything it has is 31 tires and a 2 inch lift. Going to put some 3.55 geared axles in her this summer and level her out with some new 1 ton springs. Hopefully the injectors won't matter at that point just need to get her running good again. I feel like there is a leak somewhere in the fuel system and its not keeping pressure. Leaky injector is the cheapest possibility and would explain the gas in the oil.

Sorry 703 22lb injectors

Yellow 507's I think 19lb not 100% though. Been awhile since they came in. Going to try and throw in stock injectors if I can find some decent ones at the junkyard that aren't leaking.

From what I've researched you don't need to change the regulator on the HO motors. Battery has been reset a few times since its been done (almost 6 months ago right before winter).

1992 Comanche 4.0 5speed etc etc Having a few issues I think might be related. Backfiring through the TB, smell of gas in the oil and the levels arent staying even. Sat for awhile with a small RMS leak and has more gas now than it did a month ago. I replaced my injectors with some 4 points (never doing that again). Did a few other things at the same time and trying to track down what is causing stuff like hard starts after sitting (feels like no fuel getting to the injectors) and shaky idle. Thanks

Looking for some bucket seat brackets shipped to 73703

Breaks are working decent for now. I'm still getting a weird clunk from the front right caliper but hasn't effected performance at all. Back has been locking up decent when need be. Going to do the adjustable rod modification to it when I get time. She rarely see's over 25 mph specially since the front needs a new seal and leaking diff fluid.

Looking for a passenger side seat bracket shipped to 73703. Will buy both if necessary. Thanks

Has anyone found a source for flat fenders for the rear? I've heard the two door XJ bushwackers work but the pics from the thread I found aren't working. Plus if I can find someone that has metal ones I'd be way happier.

This would be awesome if it helps the HO. My heater was blowing like **** this morning

Yup same concept I just used a hammer

I had to smack the lip on a 96 booster with the white spacer the other day. Made sure to move the canister breather and wires out of the way first. If you don't get that spacer though you need to use some washers to get it to line up properly on the 91+

That'll work. Even if I did go SOA I could use a XJ shackle and drop the back a bit if I go that route or use a chevy drop shackle if I want to do spring under and gain a couple inches. Really want those MT though for hauling crap and towing when need be.

Count the output yoke rotations when you do full turn on the hubs. If the yoke rotates 3 times its a 3.07 if it does it 3 1/2 times you're looking at a 3.55 and if it's over 4xs you have a 4.10.

Do you have 16 inch wheels or 15? Was wondering if you could take a measurement for me if they're 15's. I know it's not the most accurate but was hoping to get your height from the center bottom of the wheel/rim to the bottom center of the flair?

Good to know. I'm fighting with myself to keep my 92 LWB 4.0 sprung under or over. I have an 8.25 29spline that needs new perches and trying to decide which I want to do. Either way I want to get some heavier duty springs in the back weather its AAL or a full pack to bring up the capacity.

Yeah its still too big to fit properly. I took a sledge and massaged it until it would sit flat. The HO you don't need to do anything if you have the white spacer thing from the booster. If not then measure the distance from the hole to the mounting surface and add washers until it matches. For bleeding the system its much easier if you have two people and a home made bleeder bottle. I used a gatoraid bottle (big ones) and some 1/4 tubing I think. Cut a hole in the top of the bottle so the tubbing would fit all the way down. Added some brake fluid to the bottle and used a smaller bit to drill out a breather. Worked great cept for the pissed of wife pressing the brake pedal a million times hahahaha.

If you have the height sensing valve on the rear axle you need to bleed that as well.

Do the MT springs give any lift? I know it says no lift on the site but I've heard they give around 2 to 3 inches over stock

Anyone ordered an add a leaf from Hell Creak lately? Trying to figure out how much lift there ends up being once installed. I have 2 inch pucks in the front I want to replace with full springs and wanted to lift the rear up a bit.

When you put the RMS in: 1. Use dawn dish soap to lube up the gasket and hole (twss) 2. Make sure the 'grove' is facing toward the front of the motor 3. When you put the bottom piece of the RMS in lube it up with motor oil or MMO 4. Make sure the bearing isn't dry either but the contact points for the bottom RMS piece is 5. Use RTV on the outside side edges of the bearing cap (thing that holds the rear main seal bottom piece) 6. Hand tighten and let it sit for about an hour or so then torque to spec (think its 75lbs but double check) Oil Pan Gasket 1. Clean the ever living crap out of the pan and the contact point on the motor. Clear all the old rtv off from the bolts, holes etc etc 2. Use a thin bead of RTV around the rear holes near where it dips in and the front around the outside 4 holes (best to google for a pic) 3. Have someone help you work it under the vehicle and get it up into position without the pan. 4. Hand tighten 2 screws in the middle and the 4 on each end. 5. Let it sit as long as you can then bolt the pan in. The RTV should hold the gasket in place.

Funny you mention that. One of my idiot troops thought one bolt would be good enough. Caliper came up and cut his brake line.

Other than that the brakes are working great. Good lockup but think I need to lower the rear load sensing valve down a bit. Since the rear was lifted up it is sitting a bit high.