SBpunk

U joints were all replaced. I think the adjusters were just too lose. Some people suggested driving it in reverse and hitting the brakes a few times. It's getting better slowly. Going to take the drums off this weekend and see if anything is funny looking. It wasn't doing it prior to the brake change.

So recently replaced everything brake wise. Now when I'm coming to a stop, slow or highish speed, I'm getting a banging noise. Brakes are working fine from what I can tell but not sure what it could be. Any ideas? Replaced: Drums, wheel cylinders, all hardware, shoes and worked the ebrake (after the banging) to see if it was an adjustment issue. No luck

I did the MC and booster at the same time. Orielly's has pre 'bubble' flared brake line. I got a 3 foot stick of that and cut it in half, double flared the other side, added the correct fittings and bent it as I went along. So far no leaks and it was my first time :D just make sure you bleed like that link says.

Money is on brake booster. Re Bleed the brakes using the write up in the do it yourself section. If that doesn't improve it I'd upgrade to a WJ/95-96XJ booster. Think the ZJ's were the same also but not 100%

Does the compressor kick on? If so, how often? You might have a leak in the AC lines or low on coolant (usually the leak causes the low coolant). Take that to get some dye put in and see if you can trace down the leak. If that doesn't work I'd start looking into the other components like blower motors, vent doors, etc. The heat/cooling systems in jeeps are garbage and they didn't get any better over the years.

Everything I've read said that once you open the front bleeder, leave it open, open the rear bleeder with the load sensing valve in the down position and have someone press/hold the brake down the 'BRAKE' dash light should come on. http://comancheclub.com/topic/40428-brake-bleeding/

So I did a proper brake bleed but I couldn't get the brake light to turn on. It's not burnt out since it comes on with the e brake. I'm hoping the sender for it just isn't working. I'll be testing it out this weekend since I finally got my front driveshaft rebuilt as well. A couple more things and she'll be back on the road.

Ok so the wife gave me the ok to mess with it a little tonight. Topped off the reservoir Put a bleeder bottle on the front passenger side bleeder (has a speed bleeder on it too) Cracked it open and fluid started come down the tube. Can free spin the rotor with a little muscle. Moved over to the other side and did the same thing After that I went back to the passenger side and cracked it open again. This time I pressed the brakes 4 or 5 times and shut her. Rotor still spun Did the same with driver side. Now the only thing that looks like is happening is the brakes need to wear themselves down a bit. I started her up, jumped inside, dropped it in first and let the backs spin a bit then hit the brakes. Did this a few times then jumped out and checked the rotors. Still about the same resistance. Looks like whatever it was its not a problem now. Tomorrow I'm going to bleed the system again including the rear load sensing valve and try to get it adjusted with some steel hanger until the pieces get it so it won't move. Hopefully that'll just be a day or two. Then I'll finish putting these drive shafts together and take her for a test spin around the base (max speed 15mph so pretty safe).

I won't be able to mess with it until tomorrow. I'll give the calipers a shot also in the morning.

I wonder if its the stock forward block then. Would that being faulty cause the front brakes to drag/lock up? Sorry I'm not doubting you just covering every angle.

Ah. Are you absolutely certain that you ordered and received parts for your year MJ? There have been several permutations and combinations of hubs, disks and rotors. In general, they can't be mixed. They have different offsets, so mixing them results in no-roll wheels. Got these guys http://www.ebay.com/itm/290974885023?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and these from AutoZone http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-caliper-front/duralast-reman-brake-caliper-front/56704/ http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-traction-control/brake-caliper-front/duralast-reman-brake-caliper-front/56703_977310_5913/ I completely redid my entire drum system and decided to take it out before bleeding the front brakes. Air in the lines ended up locking up the front calipers to the point where the wheel/rim was insanely hot to the touch. Ended up warping my stock caliper. Figured I might as well upgrade to the 96 brakes system while I was at it. I'm worried that I didn't flare the lines correctly (double flare into the front brake block) and it's causing the issues. There is no leaking that I can see tho.

I'll give the bleeder screw a shot. The MC and booster came together but I separated them to bench bleed the MC. The calipers I picked up rom autozone and rotors/pads were a kit on ebay I thought was a good deal at the time. If the MC is bad then its a pretty cheap fix.

Sorry haven't had a lot of time to focus on the truck. We have 2 of our MWD's retiring and its been chaotic at best. My plan is to check the torque on the axle shaft nut to make sure its at 175lb Bleed the front brakes again Pull the guide pins and grease them Test Rebleed the entire system including the height sensing valve. I have pieces on the way to make an adjustable arm for it. Put the tires back on and take it for a slow test drive to see if I just need to hit the brakes a few times while its moving. I figured with the updated brake booster I'd have a lot better stopping power but starting to have my doubts. If all else fails I'll try to get another 1992 front brake block to see if something went bad when my brakes were locking up on me from poor bleeding.

Sorry was enjoy some drinks last night. I was referring to the hub nut you remove to pull the shafts and what not. Everything I read was 175 lb torque.

So I'm starting to wonder if I cranked my spindle nut down too far when I replaced the hubs. I only had a 150b torque wrench so I maxed it out then hooked a breaker bar up to tighten it down further.

The calipers are brand new out of the box. Same with the pads and rotors. I used the spacer that came on the 96 XJ booster and everything came within a 1/8th of a inch of the stock set up. The old calipers froze up on me to the point where the rims got red hot. Thats what prompted me to replace everything. Front and rear brakes including the hubs in the front are brand spankin new not even a mile on them. Jeeps been sitting for 2 weeks or so while I work on the brakes and rebuild the driveshafts.

Ok bled the system and bench bled the MC again. Rear brakes are stopping as long as the clutch is pushed in or its in neutral. Seems normal to me. Front brakes are still locked up. I have the tires off and the front driveshaft disconnected. Is that typical?

Did a 96 brake booster/MC swap. Got everything hooked up and bled but my rear brakes arent working and fronts lock up without releasing. From what I've read the bypass for the height sensor valve might have already been done already since there is a hard line coming out the front of the front brake block. Anyway, I traced the lines back to the rear and this is what I've got. Any ideas on why I'm locking my fronts and getting nothing to the rear brakes? This is what the two lines go back to. Plug into this guy

Yeah I googles pics. Was hoping to get some sort of extender for the back. Oh well.

I've read on these forums somewhere that the rear upper shock mount can be used with the bar pin eliminator similar to the front lower shock mount. Was wondering if there is any truth to this. I'm stuck away from the MJ for awhile longer but trying to get some parts together. I was given some JKU shocks and plan on lifting the Jeep to around 3 inches (give or take 1/2). Was hoping the eliminators would give me some extra room to travel at the height. Thanks

Yeah the battery is toast but its probably 10+ years old. The thing that pisses me off is the radiator. I'm hoping when I was reving it the hose just popped off a bit from the pressure and it didn't crack. That and my fuel issue. I'm about to swap the old stock injectors back over. Nothing but issues since I put in the 4 points

So left the comanche parked for about a week. Come back and it won't start. No biggie battery probably died. Its old and needs to be replaced. So I jump it and it starts acting like it can't get any gas. I let it sit and try to prime the lines. Finally get it started and it dies as soon as I let off the gas. I rev it up a bit and it starts backfiring (sort of) out the air intake. I keep it at around 2500 RPMs until its some what stable. Leave it running for a few minutes then unhook it from my WJ. Notice a large pool of antifreeze on the ground where the RMS would normally leak it. Jump back in and try to start it but it turns over maybe twice and starts clicking at me. Jumped it again and got it into the garage and popped the hood. The lower radiator hose is leaking on the driver side. Fun times. I'm starting to see why they don't let us bring home grenades in the military.

I managed to get my hands on a parking brake. Still trying to find brackets but found out my fuel sender might just have a dead float. Going to try and find one that fits to replace it.

I know this is probably a stupid question that's been asked a few times but has anyone cut and rewelded the rear shackles to fit XJ springs? In my head it makes sense since there are way more leaf spring options.

Everything is stock on it except what I've done. Sat on a farm it's entire life with the same couple. I'll check my GPS and see if my speed is off at 70mph. I have a 29 spline 8.25 sitting in my garage I'm going to regear, lock, alloy shaft and SOA. Insanely excited for that but it'll be awhile.