mjeff87

Yeah, there are three vac connections on the back of it. The center one is main vac in, and the other two are seperate circuits, which get plumbed to either side of the actuator. The CAD has a seperate vent line already built into it, so that the actuator can move both directions. I'm just going to pick up a vac signal from the line running to the vac resivoir and run it to the center of the switch, then run two seperate lines from the outer ports to the CAD. I'll take some pics tomorrow when I get it rigged up. Jeff

I pulled that one from the junkyard for a couple bucks (like the majority of the junk bolted onto my MJ :D ). If I see another one down there, I can grab it for ya if you can't find one (?) Jeff

Why buy something when you're neighbor works with a bunch of machinists.... :D He got his buddies to turn down and thread some case hardened, and created these for me: :brows: Image Not Found

Oops, I meant Selectrac :oops: . Here's the switch....it fits in the center console in front of the shifter, where that dished-out "change holder" piece is. Shot of the backside shows the vac connections, center is main vac in, and the opposite sides get the vac signal switched to them from the lever. Just run two vac lines from them to the CAD motor and you're good to go (run the vent line somewhere too). I might just go ahead and plumb mine up this weekend when I swap axles. HTH, Jeff Image Not Found Image Not Found

You can use a CommandTrak 2 position vac switch from an early XJ with the 228/229 transfer case, which is what I'm going to use eventually if I install a front locker. Give me a minute, I've got some pics of it I can post (just have to find them).... Jeff edit: they are on my work PC....I'll post them tomorrow morning (sorry)

No, the 4.0L one doesn't direct-fit, the frame holes on the face are about 1/2" too narrow, and there's no bolt in the rear either. I could fab either in and make work, but I want 100% bolt-in without any worries....I lost an alternator on a roadtrip last year and it was a nightmare getting it back home (I was in BFE....in a monsoon). I want peace of mind alternator-wise. Sad thing is the new alt (non-AC) I put in doesn't fit either (about 1" too short) and the place I bought it from won't let me exchange it for an AC version, even a rebuilt one. They want $75 for a new one...bastids. BTW, my bracket is the same as yours...only has one bolt attaching what's left of it to the floor :D

I generally powerwash all the grease/grime off them, hit any rusty areas with a wire brush, then spray-bomb with gloss paint (don't use matte or flat...mud sticks like mad). I just did my "new" D30 this way last weekend and am swapping it in Saturday. I'll post up a couple pics.

NP208J

thanks, I've given up on finding bucket seat brackets in the 'yard down here, so I'm just gonna adapt the bench brackets (but my driverside front one is half destroyed from rust and I don't want to reuse it). I need the specific alternator to retrofit an AC compressor (stock) onto my non-AC engine for OBA use. I've got the compressor and all the bracketry to mount it, but I need the alternator (non AC one I have, and 4.0L ones don't fit the bracket :oops: ) Just PM me when you're up there next and let me know what you find....I'll paypal ya before you pull anything so you don't have any money out of pocket. Jeff fyi...this is the alternator I need (photo courtesy of scott86mj):

Congrats on your treasures....I love getting great deals at the 'yard. I'm looking for a driverside MJ bench seat bracket (just the front one), and an 87-89 XJ/MJ 2.5L alternator, but it has to come from an AC equipped engine. Any chance you might be able to get either for me (for cheep :D )? I'd take all four of the bench brackets, in fact, if that helps make the sale.... Thanks, Jeff

you have chrome towhook brackets?? That's bling to a whole new level...... :D (or you just talking about the hooks themselves?)

I've got a set off my MJ (and yes, they are the same as XJ up to the new body style~~'97). If you want mine, I'd take $5 the same way as rockauto would :D , but I could probably ship them cheaper....lemme know if you want 'em. But, if you're considering them as a towhook attachment, they're no good as mentioned. You need seperate towhook brackets that replace these completely (that's why I have them lying in the parts pile now). Jeff

Well, axle swap-o-rama is on for this weekend. I powerwashed and paint bombed the "new" D30 Sunday, and it's ready to go in on Saturday. Then on Sunday it's over to Jerry's to trade rear ends. I got the leafpacks all sanded and painted with the graphite paint, and new bushings pressed in, just have to pick up new U bolts. Then all I'll have to do is regear and lock the D44 and swap the D35 back out when it's ready. Jeff

Ideally, you'd want to pull the cover and inspect the guts, as well as change the fluid, so check then :D Jeff

It's 100% bolt-on, you just have to make sure you get the specific bits and pieces for your particular drivetrain. There are minor variations in length on things like driveshafts, linkage rods, TC input gear length (and spline count), and a couple other things that'll drive you nuts if you don't do your research beforehand. And, you will need a new/different transmission....same model trans as you have now, but of the 4WD variety. You can't attach a TC to a 2WD tranny (without doing ALOT of work, anyway). Go for it, and don't listen to your GM friends :D Jeff

thankey CW :D I'm working on something....... Jeff

A tip for future axle ratio identification, if the tag is missing. The tooth count of both the ring and pinion are stamped into the outer face of the ring gear. Wipe off the surface, and spin the ring around until you see two sets of numbers all by themselves. Divide them to get the ratio. Welcome to the club, BTW :cheers: Jeff

thanks Nate...I already saw that. I'm curious about some measurements of just the backbone, and thicknesses. I wanna see it unmounted, and get some materials inspiration.... :D

CW...did you get the backbone yet? Would you mind posting up a few pics of it before you mount it? thanks! Jeff

they looked at me like I had two heads when I asked them for a set. Even brought the remains of one of them with me and showed them what it was I needed.

NVM, found a set at RE for $8.00....unless anyone has an unused set you want to get rid of :D Jeff

Alright....I didn't think it would be next to impossible to find replacement center pins for the new leafpacks I got. Where can I get some??? I tried Advance, NAPA, a couple local parts houses, did some internet shopping, and I can't find 'em anywhere. What gives? I know I can use allen head bolts, but I'd rather have the OEM hardened pins just for peace of mind. Anyone have a spare set (2 1/2") or know where I can get them? Can't reuse the old ones because I removed them via sawzall (they were rusted) :evil: Thanks, Jeff

I was at the junkyard yesterday, looking at Dakotas to try and get an estimate. EVERY one of them was missing the rear line :cry: On another sad note, there was an XJ there with what looked like about a 4" lift kit on it. Problem was that the PO smashed the front end so badly on the passenger side that nothing was useable....lift coils (had about 12-14 coil wraps), adjustable LCA's, quick disconnects with heim joints, adjustable trackbar.....all shot :headpop: The only thing I coulda taken off of it was the driverside extended brake line....the passenger side was shredded. I might go back down and get the rear leafpacks, in case some XJ-er is looking for a set of lift leaves. Jeff

Private seller.....$5 plus shipping :brows: Jeff

I'd say $250-300, but I'm a tightwad ;) If you're engine and TC are in decent shape, I'd probably just swap trannies and be done with it. Jeff[/b]