HOrnbrod

There are a couple of articles floating around detailing replacment of the obsolete MJ load sensing valve with a similar unit from a Toyota Tacoma or Nissan truck. An old retired Jeep dealership mechanic in town also told me that he had changed several of them out while at the dealership. He said the plumbing was the same and it was an easy install. If mine ever craps out, that's probably what I will do.

Well Tom, when you asked about adapting the MJ-unique rear load leveling valve when developing your kit, it was obvious you were thinking details for our rigs, not just lumping them into another crappy AAL XJ-type lift kit. I can not speak for the club, but please keep us informed of recent developments, and we'll assist in any way. Good bunch on this forum. Don

Many thanks Twisty. Yep, it's for the LWB MJ, p/n 82200359. I picked up a crap load of NOS MJ and XJ AMC & Mopar parts yesterday and am trying to ID them. This was one of the items I didn't need; my camper shell is staying. I'll be listing it on Ebay soon, as well as a whole lot of other stuff. Thanks again.

If your gas gauge is operating correctly you prolly do not need the sending unit. I did not. But if I remember correctly, the NAPA Bosch units come with the filter and of course new O-rings. If you do not have an aftermarket adjustable regulator, like Hesco's, you have the fixed pressure regulator and can not adjust the pressure. But again, this is for HO's; not familiar with 1990 and below.

Thank you Twisty. If it's 30", I have found a LWB bar. Here's a pic: Image Not Found

Thank you Twisty. If it's 30", I have found a LWB bar.

Don't think so. Here's their web site: http://www.hellcreeksuspensions.com/

Well, guess nobody has a LWB roll bar. Okay, can anyone provide the dimension below between the legs from an original SWB roll bar? Thanks!

Roger - missed that. But the pumps carry the same Bosch p/n.

The Bosch pump from NAPA fits both years (w. 4.0L). I have one in for four years now, and still works fine.

Anyone have an original LWB factory roll bar handy? Need a measurement. Thanks; Don

I did the same for my 91 2WD w. 2-1/2" lift and all is well. And Pete's exactly right; the 4WD does set 1" higher than the 2WD from the factory, so the rod is 1" longer. BTW Tom, are you supplying shocks with your lift kits? Fronts are easy, same as for the XJ's. The stock MJ rear shocks do not have enough travel for 2-1/2" lifts and higher, so I ended up using OME ZJ shocks - had to press the bar pins out.

I did the same for my 91 2WD w. 2-1/2" lift and all is well. And Pete's exactly right; the 4WD does set 1" higher than the 2WD from the factory, so the rod is 1" longer.

I'm just going by what it says in my 1991 FSM. There is a very detailed adjustment procedure for the 90-92 models, but right off the bat it states "DO NOT USE THIS PROCEDURE FOR MODELS BUILT PRIOR TO 1990". Since I have had only 91 MJ models, I don't know what the earlier year's adjustment procedure is. Basically for the 90-92 models, the arm is press fitted on the valve shaft by aligning alignment flats, then is rotated to a certain degree point using a factory gauge. However, in all MJ models I've seen, the arm is positioned slightly above parallel to the axle shaft (about 25 degrees). If you have lifted the vehicle, of course the arm will be pulled down, so what I did was fab a longer shaft to place the arm at about 25 degrees above parallel to the axle where it was before the lift. 1/4" solid rod may be used bent to the same contours as the old rod. You have to file a slot on each end of the new longer rod then transfer the ball socket end pieces. Maybe someone can chime in on the adj. procedure for the 89 and below models. If if the arm has never been removed from the load leveling valve, I'd just fab the longer rod to match the lift then do a smoke test with the brakes.

the PDC was something chryco introduced when they went HO, the rest of us are stuck with a much nastier rats nest of wires from AMC. on my 87 4.0 it is the middle relay. Thanks - didn't know that.

Got that right. RIP IT OUT! Don't fix it, adjust it, or alter it, just RIP IT OUT!. Mine works great, always has, and when I put in my little 2-1/2" lift, I just entended the frame-to-arm operating rod the same length as my lift, and it still works great. 'Course if it ever gets frozen inop from rust, which is why I expect everyone hates it, maybe then I'll RIP IT OUT and do the bypass w. the brake lines. But it aint broke, and I aint fixin it - yet :chillin:

Don't know about your 86 2.5, but on my 91 4.0 it's located in the PDC.

Hey CW - sent you a PM on this topic - thanks, Don

http://www.berrysprinter.com/jeepparts.php

Thanks Jeepco - appreciate it.

Looks great Jeff! Rule of thumb is to have a minimum of 5 full turns w. the lug nut. When I put disks on the back it sucked up about 1/4" of threads, then put the 8"-wide TJ wheels after that on it sucked another 1/4", so I was left just over 4 full turns on the nut. Was not comfortable with that so I put in new 1/2"x20 studs 1/2" longer. Easy job and worth it for the peace of mind. Luckily I did not have to use a spacer for the front to clear the LCA's, or I would have had to put new studs in the front too.

Could be, but since I extended the activation rod exactly the same as the lift, it should be working the same as it did pre-lift. However, since I did that I have added 31" tires, and the rear seems to be braking better than before w. the 225/75/15 tires. Nice to know what's inside the leveling valve though - never had one opened up.

Like Eagle says, It should be in the "POWER" position for best mileage and crisper shifting. Charles, if the TCU is a 1993 you don't need it. To be sure, if you still have the 3-pin connector behind the dash that plugs into the power/comfort switch, you can jumper pin B (DB wire) to pin C (TN wire, 12V). This will apply 12V to pin C11 of the TCU and will keep it always in the POWER setting.

thats funny, but oh so true. bonkers - i have a parts manual for MJs that have everypart listed along with their numbers. there was a factory chrome rollbar. you could get either chrome or black, same with bumpers and roo bars. Alex Hi Alex; I picking up a NOS MJ roll bar in TN soon, but I'm not positive it's for LWB or SWB. Do you have the part numbers?

Found it, pulled it, 34 teeth. Need a 37 or 38 tooth, according to various tables and calculations. Have verified the speedo reads about 8-9 MPH low, and got a ticket Thursday night. :mad: The cop wouldn't listen, pure redneck 'Bama a-hole. However he did give me a pic from his daughter's wedding reception: