HOrnbrod

Prototype below. Incorporates the pump bolts and the 1/2" through bolt. Sway bar & bushing not mounted yet. Better?

You mean the piece that bolts onto the diff cover? Maybe the diffs were different, like one was a D35, the other a D44, or even an AMC20?

No Eagle, you read it right; I probably wrote it wrong. Pulled the pinion in and out a few times to see if the dayem crush sleeve would actually crush with varying torques, some all the way to 500 ft lbs. It never did, as compared to the old one. On the final assembly we just tightened far enough until the preload was right. Been reading over at NAXJA and some other sites regarding reusing the crush sleeve, about 75% say use new, the rest say it's cool to use the old one, and snug it up to about 250-275 ft lbs. So far so good. Put another 60 miles or so on today, all seems well. BTW, I'm just using regular dino Castrol 90 weight gear oil for breakin; plan to drain and replace with either Redline or Mobil 1 synthetic after about 200 miles or so. Never have used syn gear oil before, okay to do?

There were two crush sleeves in the kit. One miked out slightly taller than the other, about .005. Nothing in the instructions as to which one to use. We used the tallest one the first time. Torqued the pinion down to max (still have to check on the 400-500 figure, might have been 250-300 :oops: ), checked the preload, reassembled, took it for a test drive, then the whine started when coasting after about five miles. Came back, pulled the driveshaft, and that's when we discovered the up and down movement of the yoke. We also could feel a binding high spot when turning the pinion w. the carrier/ring gear in place at the same spot everytime, especially in the ccw direction. Also, one thing we did not do the first time was replace the pinion fore and aft bearing races, just the bearings. So we tore it down, and the crush sleeve was barely crushed when comparing it to the new one. Reassembled with the old sleeve, replaced the pinion bearing races, and tightened the pinion nut just enough so it turned freely w. no slop. I do not think we even used the torque wrench when re-sassembling the final time using the old crush sleeve (two complete & many partial tear-downs, plus several Millers to keep cool :cheers:). Stuck in the carrier and axles; the previous high spot was gone, the pattern looked good, and it felt great and drove the same way. I wanted Dana-Spicer gears too, but got the Yukon 4.11s and the master rebuild kit for less that $200 shipped. The Dana-Spicers were about double that w. shipping and did not include the carrier bearings and races.

Been a long hot weekend, but as far as I remember, and I do not have the spec sheet here now, it's at the shop, the Yukon spec sheet said 400-500 ft lbs. But I do remember ( remembering is dangerous, for I am an old pharte as you are mate) the writer said to use the longest cheater bar, like 6', if you did not have a torque wrench to achieve adequate crush on the new sleeve. Well, we did do the max recommended torque spec on it the first time, still had up/down slop, pulled it, and the sleeve was not crushed nearly to the measurement of the old one. Pulled it apart again, inserted the old crush sleve, then tightened until it turned freely but w. zero slop up/down and turned tightly by hand but easily cw/ccw for many many rotations. Then checked the torque on the pinion nut, it stopped clicking incrementally about 490-500 ft lbs. Stuck the carrier, axels & driveshaft back in, everything still turned using the axle flange w. very acceptable backlash. Newbie, first time at this, and using common sense, it's right. If there were problems, I think they would have shown up during the very strenuous test run we made. BUT, I will check the specs tomorrow. But I'm looking for advice on this Eagle, and appreciate yours as always, and I appreciate your response.

Yeah, I know you're supposed to use a new one Eagle, thus the question. The Yukon instructions specified 400-500 ft lbs on the pinion nut. Used 500 on the new one and double checked w. two torque wrenches. Still did not compress it enough. On re-assembly, used 500 ft lbs with the old one, checked preload, was okay. Used no pinion shims as the original setup was, and shimming would have only made it worse, i.e. forcing the pinion more aft to the ring gear (had a slight high spot bind on first assembly). It really feels fine now, is smooth and quiet, and I smoked the tires all around town in forward and reverse, and climbed and coasted down a few mountains this afternoon, all is well. It's quieter than the old gear set (103K), and the pattern looked great on the last assembly. I think it's okay, definitely seems to be. Time will tell............ :roll:

Dayem, thanks Dirty. :cheers: The crush sleeve is supossed to be a one-time shot to get perfect pinion preload w/o shims, but it did not work for me, and a crush sleeve eliminator was not included with the kit. I was ready to crush the whole D35 after three tries in 97 degree temps this weekend. But the old crush sleeve was fine and the preload is right. But I learned a lot, and love the new gears. Next job is to change out the speedo gear before I get another ticket :mad:

Changed the gears in my D35 rear this weekend (first time for me) to compensate for the larger tires (31"). Went from 3.55 to a 4.11 ratio using Yukon gears ans rebuild kit. To make a long story short, we had to reuse the original pinion crush sleeve because the new crush sleeve supplied with the rebuild kit would not "crush" enough using the recommended torque spec on the pinion nut to correctly seat the forward pinion bearing, which caused a whine when coasting. There was noticible front up-and-down slop at the yoke after about 20 miles of road testing. When we disassembled, the new crush sleeve was noticably higher (about .035") than the old crush sleeve. Re-assembled using the old crush sleeve with no other changes (pattern, backlash, etc. was all good) and now all is quiet and well. Called a friend who has done many regears in D35s and 44s, and he said he most always reuses the old pinion crush sleeve because of the same problem. I did use all the new bearings and races suppplied with the kit. My question is, should I have any longterm worries by re-using the old crush sleeve? Went for about 100 mi. and all is well w. no leaks.

Just thought of it, got to be C-clip vs. non C-clip. 1984-1989 Dana 35, non c-clip, ABS or non-ABS. 1990-1996 Dana 35, c-clip, ABS or non-ABS. 1997-2001 Dana 35, c-clip, ABS.

The MJ parts manual has two different part numbers for the standard D35 axel housing, 83503014 for 86-89, and 5252632 for 90-92. The D44 (metric Ton) axel housing is the same for all MJ years. Anyone know what the difference is for the D35 between years? I have no clue.

I have a brand new old stock 2.5L ECU listed on Ebay now that will fit your rig. Do a search for: NOS JeeP Engine Control Unit ECU Microprocessor 2.5L

10-4 and roger that. The problem is that all four of your bolts are concentrated in one small area of the bottom of the frame rail. It's too easy to just rip that right out of the frame with a good yank. The factory brackets have the bolts spead out over a much larger area, plus they go through the frame so the load is taken by both sides of the rail. Sorry if it seems like I'm picking on you, but a tow hook that comes loose from the vehicle is a lethal weapon. Unless you have seen what it will do, you cannot begin to imagine just how destructive it can be. I haven't seen it in person, but I have seen videos. And I used to be a sailor. I've seen what happens when even something as small as a 1/2" anchor line snaps, with nothing on the end. You do NOT want to take any chances on this. Understand Eagle, and I am retired Navy (was not a deck ape though) and should have known better. Stationed for several years up your way too in Groton. SS Dogfish, SS Tusk, etc. many years ago........

yes, excellent. Crude drawing attached.

You mean the hole where the power steering box bolt goes through? That can be done, but there is no hole on the passenger's side.

Agree w. the bolts; I just stuck it on for now to see how eveything fit. Here's a pic of the brackets: Image Not Found It attaches with the four bolts, existing holes, and butts up against the side of the same sub-frame the the bumper brackets bolt to - with three bolts. Less than 3" from the hook to the attachment points. And Eagle, no worries mate - I'd never ask you for a pull :chillin:

Thanks Jonathon. I had that link previously but lost it when my hard drive crashed.

No, it's actually held on by four 7/16" bolts (the other two are the same bolts that hold the sway bar on the frame). These four bolts go through the existing holes in the frame. There is also an angle (L-bar) that buts up against the frame for sideways pulling.

Attaches directly to the subframe member under the sway bar bushing mount. No need to remove bumper. Image Not Found

I believe the shift indicator's been fabbed in on that one John. :brows:

Like this? http://toyota.off-road.com/toyota/artic ... ?id=186295

Okay, I'd sure like to see that. I've contacted the factory, looked at the police column units, and all I've been told is it was never manufactured. Yes, that's fabbing it in.

It is a good idea, but you're right: if it works properly. Trouble is in most of our old MJ's the load sensing valve is either rusted inop, or is broke internally. No parts or replacements are available anymore, so they get ripped out and bypassed. Toyota and other P/U manufacturers use them too, and swapping them out is easily done. I was coming back from TN last weekend with a crapload of stuff in the back, and had to slam on the brakes to avoid some fool on the interstate, and there was a positive noticable difference in the front-to-rear brake proportioning than when unloaded.

Or think she's in reverse and slam into the car in front of her in the parking lot. Exactly why I put it in. :cheers:

They didn't make a full gauge cluster with the built-in shift indicator, so you'll have to fab it in. Or you can use one of the 3-speed Ididit shift indicators like below. Summit has them among others. The pointer lines up perfectly with the AW4. They also make one with a chrome housing that screws into the column collar, the one I used. Works great!

Bling bling on Ebay - $9.90.