HOrnbrod

I just rattle-canned my hood vents, four coats base, flash dry 1/2 hour between coats, let dry overnight, then three coats clear, again 1/2 hour between coats. The finish came out great, no milking or bubbles, although I'm not real happy with the color match. I made sure the clear coat was sprayed on a low humidity day.

Sounds like you have the so-called "mid-line" cluster, with the giant fuel gauge and no tach. The speedo from this cluster will swap into a new "high-line" 6-gauge cluster, but the speedo gauge faceplate is different and it will look odd. Best to just swap the odometers.

Nope.

http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... arity+fuel and http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopi ... arity+fuel

Seat belt light/buzzer.

Refresh my memory if I'm wrong, but the problem I had was with my rear disk brake calipers rubbing on the inside of the Canyons, but were no problem with the Ravines. Offsets AFAIK are the same w. both wheels. As long as you don't have rear disk brakes, either one should work for you mate. :cheers:

Since you're going to replace the track bar (good idea :D ) you also need to get a pickle fork to remove the tapered end. Drive it up in there between the TB and the frome then turn the nut at the same time (remove the cotter pin first of course), and it should pop right out. You'll need a BFH w. room to swing it.

Naw, now-a days mostly all I hunt swims in the lake out back. But my bro-in-law has about 300 acres about an hour away, some deer, turkey, & lots of quail that I take advantage of occasionally. Lots of vermin coyotes there too that are killed 24/7/365, or whenever available. :D

Amen to that. After years of living in typhoon-prone areas, like Guam and the Philippines, a generator is mandatory equipment. I remember when typhoon Paka came through and leveled Guam in 97, we lost power for almost six weeks. I just have a 5Kw unit from Harbor Freight now, but I'd never be without one no matter where I lived.

Yes, 2WD w. AW4.

That's the width of the mounting posts on the ZJ vents. They have a metal collar around the plastic inner post to keep it from cracking when over-torqueing. :D The 1/2" mounting posts fits into cups on the drip pans. But these holes are easy with a Unibit. First time I've used one. :cheers:

Got it nearly done except for compounding out the louvers after the clearcoat hardens. Here's the top shot of the 1/2" mounting holes and large air holes.. Image Not Found The underside - clears the frame nicely.. Image Not Found Top view installed.. Underside w. drip pans.. Hard to get a perfect match w. 5 year old paint, but the vents will lighten up a bit over time.

Usually they stay close to what they start at.

The long bed drive shaft w. AW4 is 60" yoke cap to yoke cap, so take a measurement. Or you could install one of these long slip yokes providing your front u-joint angle isn't too extreme. I used one (cut it down) and it works fine. But I only have a 3" lift, so my u-joint angles aren't as much as yours. http://tinyurl.com/6z4k9l

Since summerinmaine is contemplating regearing his D44 from 3.07 to 4.10, won't he also need a new carrier since the low-to-high ratio cutoff is 3.73? EDIT: Crap, I just saw Eagle's post above regarding the new carrier - never mind..........

If you decide to regear your D44, the best prices for new gears and the master kit by far I found when I did it on my D35 was from Dirk at http://www.dpgoffroad.com (316-776-9900), $210 for both including shipping. A real gentleman to work with. The first set I went from 3.55 to 4.11 (Yukon), tried to install myself, and flocked up the backlash adj. which caused driveline vibes. The second set I carried to a known good local shop w. a rock solid guarantee and am going strong two years later. And yes, 4.11 gears front and back should be the ideal solution for your needs.

That's what I have (WJ LCAs, 3" lift, Ravines) w. 31" BFG MTs and there is still plenty of room all around front and back. I think 32" - ers would fit no problemo. :cheers:

I always like pics better. :D Parts 3-10 must be removed brfore you attach your puller. Best also to leave the middle shaft nut on loosely so the wheel won't fly off. Image Not Found

X3. Jon makes quality stuff.

That smells like perfume to me. :eek: Besides, my engine is clean. :D Got them in today in the location above and with a little trimming, the drip pans fit right in too. Can't paint as Fay is around dumping rain on us for the next two days or so. The only problem I had was the K&N intake pipe. I had to heat it up with the gun and flatten it slowly by squeezing it with the vice where the left drip pad hit it. Got about 1/2" clearance now. I'll post some pics when I'm done. :cheers:

I won't be watching any of that comedy show.......... :roll:

I've tried this with small parts that have faded out using rattle can clear coat after prepping. Usually it brightens things up quite a bit, but as there are few days here w. tolerable humidity, it sometimes fogs up. Sometimes it clears up over time, sometimes it does not. With small parts I put them in the oven for a couple of hours baking at 100*. (The wife loves it when I do this) :D Also to get rid of the fogging effect, I've used a heat gun sparingly at a distance back and forth across the affected areas which usually works. But I'm sure using clear coat over faded paint will not make it look worse. :cheers:

You should ask this question over at the Jeep strokers forum. Good bunch there, they'll fix you up. :cheers: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/index.php

Anyone been watching the Olympics? I saw a couple of Jeep 2500s being used for chase vehicles in the marathon event. They looked pretty good. Also some other look-like-Jeeps I didn't recognize. :D No MJs though......... :oops:

Thanks all for the replies so far. After measuring and fooling around some more, this is the location I can use as far aft and outboard as I can go w/o cutting into the hood frame. I don't think I can use the drip pans, but if water gets in it shouldn't hurt anything. I think they will look good in this location painted the same color as the hood. But I may have to junk my K&N intake and go back to the stocker. :cry: Image Not Found