HOrnbrod

Had quite a few SBCs in various machines back in the day and tried various carbs. The Edelbrocks for me were super finicky to set up, especially in regards to float level settings under varying conditions, like acceleration and long g turns. The Holly double pumpers were easier to set the floats due to the float bowl plugs and you could adjust them while running, unlike the Edelbrocks. I liked to set the fuel float level just above the plug hole as it worked better for all conditions, but on a cold engine of course. Once you got them right on both sides, they were super reliable and stayed that way. But it's like everything else, everyone has different opinions based on what worked best for them. I never could get a 327 to run tolerable under all conditions with an Edelbrock.

Throw a rebuild kit on the Eldlebrock, if no help, junk it and swap in a dual feed Holley 650. :thumbsup:

Yep, sounds like it. Probably rotten and ate up by ethanol.

Bo, can't you just get the 0-ring kit (p/n 4418903, about $5)? Of is the regulator housing leaking?

I have looked and looked for this ground bolt on my 91 and can not see it. Is it present on the HOs as well Cruiser?

I'm fairly certain the 4WD and LWB Eliminators started in 1991 Jim. And the Elim I'm referring to is 2WD with auto. :dunno:

I'm looking at a 1990 Eliminator, build date 8/1989. In the VIN decoders it comes up as a factory Eliminator, but the 8th digit in the VIN that designates the model number is an "L", not a "5" (Eliminator) as in all the VIN decoder data I've seen. Any ideas as to why? Oh, and when I run the VIN, it does come up as a 1990 Eliminator.

Maybe you should cut back on your meds, si? :yes:

Redneck! That sounds like something Bubba would do. :rotfl2:

Guess I worded it wrong. I meant the plastic plate next to the tank, then the metal plate on the outside. I wondered because I've seen the SWB models like this and because the studs that hold the plastic piece protrude through holes in the metal piece.

Remi, do you know if the standard plastic skid was installed on the tank under the steel skid plate on your LWB models? It would not fit when I mounted the metal skid I got from Charlie. All the SWB metal tank skids I've seen have both installed. Just curious..............

Charlie & Remi, do LWB fuel tank skid plates grow wild out in Cali? :yes: Basically non-obtaimium here.

So glad a CC member stepped up and bought this very unique MJ. Good job Ben, and try to keep it out of the rain. :cheers:

Entirely different mounting system.

Milk it while you can Jim. They soon grow of that. :yes:

Yep, ballast resistors have no effect on electrical system loads. That's why automotive manufacturers hang ballast resistors in series with ignition coils, blower/fan motors, LEDs, CDI systems, and other applications. Ever hear of heat dissipation?

Went back and searched the forum. It seems she has moved to the boonies of Hudspeth County.

The parts manual shows the ballast resistor was used through 1993. I think the XJ fuel pump changed in 1994 though and it didn't need current limiting. But not sure.......... And yes, I keep a jumper wire on board too.

The specs are an exact match for the 3+2 MT springs. I know because when I ordered my set from General Springs they mistakenly sent their NOS Mopar MT model spring by mistake. It and the manufactured spring were identical. They originally provided 3" of lift, then settled down to 2.5" after about a year. But my original springs were shot........

There used to be a woman from Alpine, TX who posted quite a bit on the Yahoo Strokers group. She was retired Army and loved loved British aluminum V8 engines and Jeeps, and planned to transplant a Rover V8 into her XJ. except for fuel injection and engine computers. First thing she did with a Jeep 4.0 is rip out all that stuff, throw in a set of points and carbed it. She did all her own work and seemed quite knowledgeable. Quite a character. She flew her own plane too. IIRC correctly her name is Sabrina. Just wondered if you knew her. Alpine can't be all that big. :yes:

Noise doesn't bother me, but I like anything that might lengthen the fuel pump lifespan by limiting the current through it and postponing that nasty job. I'd much rather replace the resistor than the fuel pump anyday. :thumbsup:

Ebay. RockAuto has them among others too.

I used to have hydraulic struts on the hood (pre-cowl hood) and it was in the way of the strut bracket.

My engine has been cutting out randomly lately and I think I found the cause. The crappy spade connectors used on the fuel pump ballast resistor. These type of connectors suck for automotive or any other use that has inherent vibrations, as they tend to loosen up over time. Especially on circuits that can leave you dead in the water. I found an ignition ballast resistor with the same value as my old one (1.2 ohms) but it has the more secure ring connectors. I've been driving it for two weeks since I did this and it hasn't cut out yet. Just a tip for those who still have the ballast resistor in the pump circuit (as it should be). :yes: Standard Ignition Resistor RU29T

You don't really expect anyone to tell you to buy a Toy over a Comanche here do you? And yeah, Comanches are better. :yes: