Sir_Brando

i used the "build your own" Spectre kit from autozone for my avenger. It cost about 75 with everything.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11562

This thread seems dead. You get your cruise control working? Hooking mine up, it came down to an inline fuse i was overlooking.

Thanks for the reply Eagle. Ill bring the cruise control vac over to the canister then and get a new hose for the booster. Ill go ahead and plug the canister hose back into the engine vac where it was previously next to the egr solenoid until someone says otherwise. Thanks again. :thumbsup:

Honestly, I could care less if they are power or manual. All I'm really interested in is getting rid of the vent. The doors are going to be the last thing i switch over even though its what i want on the truck the most. The header and fenders are just to easy of a swap to wait until last. The wiring doesn't bother me. I work with microprocessors and robotics on the side so i think ill be able to figure out some power windows/locks. might even fab up my own switches. Yeah I'm pretty excited about the fenders and header. Checking it out today, i noticed a little hail damage on top of the fenders but nothing too major. Not sure what i need for the doors, I've never played around with the insides of power doors. I have the door shell, glass, tracks, and panels. He said all they took was the regulators. If there is anything else i need then I'm clueless. As far as i know, i need regulators and mirrors. door lock cylinders are gone too, so whatever goes with that may be missing. I'll inspect them a little more this evening. gotta go get some paint so i can at least get these fenders and header on.. I'm going to try and avoid rolling around looking like a frankenjeep. Do the MJ flares go onto the XJ panels just fine?

Thanks for the replies. I gave the guy $110. I got the header with everything, fenders, inner fenders, horns, rear view mirror, doors with latch strikers. I'm a little disappointed with the doors. No regulators like i talked about. Mirrors were gone. All electronics were stripped out of drivers door. I found a 2dr though, ill call and see about those doors to swap what i don't have on these 97 doors.

The cruise control i added on is T'd into the line from the manifold to the power booster behind the brake fluid reservoir. Is this correct? Also, there is the larger hose coming out of the vacuum canister in the bumper. Where is the correct place to plug this hose into. Thanks.

I've run E3 in my Avenger since I bought it. 40k miles and no problems with them.

It's in really good condition. http://wichita.craigslist.org/pts/2174381906.html Shame i don't have any more room than the back of my truck to store parts or i'd buy more parts from him, or even the whole thing.

I'm heading over tomorrow after work to pick up some parts. Both doors -regulators and header panel with everything for 90 bucks. He said 10 for each fender. I'll make sure i get the latch strikers and grab the harness as far back towards the cab as possible. Anything else i need to make sure i grab? i won't be able to go back if i forget anything, he is crushing it. any brackets for the fenders? hood worth anything? tail lights? flares? seats are already taken. don't want to not get something and regret it later with the prices he's throwin out

I have a chance to buy 97 doors but the seller sold the window regulators and the door side moldings. I havent discussed a price yet. Should I still go for the doors even though they arent complete? I haven't read up on converting to 97+ so real quick do i need to get anything besides the door itself? hinges, latch plate? If i should still go for em, what kind of price should i be discussing. He is taking this xj to the crusher soon so i need quick responses. . thanks alot. also, discussing the complete header.. what kind of price should i be going for on this?

smack yourself for saying that. Cleaned up intake and vacuum systems. Replaced fuel filter/pump. Drove it for the first time in a week and a half.. Blitzen, how I've missed you.

BUMP Could someone please look and see where the bigger rubber vac hose coming out of the canister in the bumper goes? I can't find anything anywhere explaining where it goes. Thanks.

Problem is fixed. I grabbed a new fuel pump and that solved the problem. I completely cleaned every part of the FB/TB including the regulator which it seems like it should be adjustable? Mine was not. No idea what you're getting at. I don't have the fuel pressure tester port that goes into the fuel body. The rental kit from autozone didnt have any attachments for the FB either so i used an in-line port just forward of the filter. You can see in the video that i already had a gauge hooked up and it was reading around 5-6. All together this is the work that was done before fixing the problem with a new pump: 1. removed muffler 2. new plugs/wires 3. replaced all vacuum lines and the hideous vac tree with rubber vacuum hose(approx 10ft) 4. EGR was completely clogged w/carbon - cleaned and checked good 5. found vacuum hoses hooked up incorrectly 6. new fuel filter 7. completely took apart fuel body/throttle body. soaked and scrubbed 8. MAP test, MAT test x2 9. TPS adjustment 10. new fuel pump/strainer A week and a half, 1 case of beer, and half case of redbull later, she's purrin. This baby hasnt run this good since ive got it.

After everything I've cleaned/replaced, it runs relatively better, but I'm still having problems. I'm not sure what the right term is. Loping? Erratic idle? I think I've narrowed it down to the fuel pump. Here's a video of the test I did. z4pEHT2Ka38 Gauge stays at a steady 6(approx) while running.

The diagram is fine.. The fresh air inlet is towards the front of the valve cover. Maybe thats why you think its mixed up. Like I said, I added the red line and the vac canister to show what mine looks like. I know it's supposed to go to the heater/air. Any reason why PO would have tied it into the eng vac sys? Where should the hose be going to? To get rid of the confusion, here's another picture. The hose going to the vacuum canister in the bumper is hooked into that T right behind the EGR solenoid going towards the firewall. I'd unplug it and cap off the T but where would the hose go?

Is the vacuum canister supposed to tie into the engine system at all? Here is a pictures with the RED being what i added to the picture. There is a T-off just before the EGR solenoid going to the canister. Also, the lines going into the TAC(GREEN), and the lines going into the TB(BLUE)... does it matter which hose goes on which port? I know on the TB there is a larger hole and a smaller hole, does it matter which goes to the MAP and which goes to the valve cover? Is there anything I should be checking with the vacuum motor? The cruise control i added on is T'd into the line from the manifold to the power booster behind the brake fluid reservoir. Is this correct?

... youre wife is constantly mad because her Dawn dish soap bottle ALWAYS has grease on it.

BUMP I took the TB off and cleaned it all up. Should I/can i do anything with the piece in the middle of the TB? Thats the injector i presume?? I cleaned the dealy with the spring and rubber thingy in it next to the TPS. Anything else while the TB is off the manifold? I'm going to rent a pressure tester from autozone to check the fuel pump.

The EGR was completely clogged. I cleaned that baby out and its moving freely and working. I tested the TPS, the input ranged from 1v closed throttle to 5v open. The output read 5.07v regardless of what position the throttle was in. Adjusting the TPS didnt change the output reading at all so i fine tuned the input reading. does this mean the tps needs to be replaced? Current symptoms: Starts fine, attempts to idle fine, then RPMs drop significantly. opening the throttle, it does the same thing. idles very high(foot on the gas) then rpms die down to the point of killing the engine if i don't stomp the gas. Its a constant wavering up and down in RPMs. It makes it impossible to drive. I still have a laundry list of stuff to check. hopefully someone can add to the list and give me more to check Already changed the plugs and wires and its just wavering smoother now. doesnt seem to be the problem.

I changed the fuel filter, plugs, and wires. I couldn't get the exhaust off before the cat, so I opened up the muffler at the hole and cleared out the insides. I'm getting a normal amount of exhaust coming out now, so I don't think that's the problem anymore. It's running smoother now, but the rpms are wavering really bad now. I haven't let it warm up yet or try to drive it. Without the muffler, I'd rather wait until tomorrow instead of waking everyone up. For the MAP sensor.. With the key in on and the engine off, the multimeter reads 5v at the middle contact(B). At idle and not completely warm, it reads about 3v. Is there more than that to testing the sensor? If not it looks good to me. Is there something with the carb i could be doing? Clean up under the valve cover? Test the fuel pump? An electrical problem? I'll fire it up tomorrow and let it chug for a while to see how it acts.

Ive already been having some vacuum issues so I'm picking up some more hose in the morning and finishing gettin rid of the brittle stuff. Ill check the connection to the map while i do that. I'll pick up a fuel filter, plugs, wires, etc as well. I haven't changed those in a while. Ill look tomorrow but as far as the cat goes, without looking at it, i think its alright. Seems to be just as hot on one side as the other. I'm gonna chisel through the bolts in the am and check it. Forgot to mention this, but it idles fairly well. Doesnt sound like a plug or wire. However, a couple times, after idling fine for about 10min it just sputtered out and died. Ive also been working on an extremely high idle. I wasnt gonna ask for help with it until i bought a tach so i could give some numbers. I'm gonna dig into it in the morning and hopefully answer some of my own questions. Thanks for the suggestions.

Halfway through my day last Wed my comanche started doing this. The best way i can describe it is the truck was limping while trying to drive. Ill try to explain the best i can. Once i got around 10mph in first gear it started lurching pretty bad and accelerating only made it worse. Shifting into second made it putt putt and limp along. Stomping the gas only made it putt putt faster, like a spattering at high rpms. Finally once it got between 15-20mph, i shifted to 3rd to see what it would do. It did the normal bog down during low speed in a high gear. It was extremely nasty out so i convince myself to limp it home and figure it out there instead of checking it out and being stranded out in cold and snow. Thank god for the manual trans, don't think i could have got it home without it. My muffler is extremely rusted out with a big hole in the side of it.(very next thing on the list of things to replace) So my initial reaction was the exhaust had finally had enough but i really have no clue. After searching across multiple forums, those symptoms seemed to match what i had goin on the the general answer was the exhaust. One answer i ran across talked about a spring loaded connection at the exhaust manifold to pipe connection that lowers the pressure in the exhaust system so one can limp the car home or to a repair shop. I took a handful of snow and held it on the cat. it hissed and evaporated pretty quickly. Same with the pipe going towards the muffler. The snow melted a little when touched to the muffler but didnt his and evaporate. I didnt even bother with the tail pipe. like i said, my muffler has a huge hole in it and thats where the exhaust dumps anyways. The end of the tail pipe is usually cold to the touch. Sorry for the novel, I'm just looking to confirm the exhaust is my problem or if i need to be checking other things. I would just replace the exhaust but if its something completely different id rather get it drivable before buying a new muffler. My idea today was to unbolt the cat from the dp but i just rounded the extremely rusted bolts off. Gonna go shoppin with the fam after the post and chisel the bolts off when i get back. If i can get the cat back off and drive it around then thats enough convincing for me to go ahead and replace it. I'm attaching a video to show what point not to let your muffler get to. And two other videos with possibly another issue, related or not, a sound from the intake when i shut off the truck i have no idea about. Thanks for any help fellas. Intake - b2Gs-cM2jJI IDLLPbeHFAc

nah its just a flipped picture. the rest of the pictures on the post are all good. Dramatic Effect i guess? i know my MJ looks sexier when its facing left

Whats wrong with your current tank? Or do you just need a new one? If you have an older one, you could restore it. On MuscleCar they did a budget build on a gas tank. They cleaned it out, then used POR-15 Metal Ready then a coat of POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer. They brushed the outside down and sealed it with some Rustoleum. Came out a pretty "new" tank. If you need a new one, you can get a fuel cell for just as much if not less than that as well.