Whamm

Installed the new power steering pump. :D But found a large pool of power steering fuild under the truck upon restart and test. High pressure line was busted, guess i know what made the pump go bad. :mad:

Thanks, well i will go see the truck later this afternoon. It not being parted out, this was the price for the whole truck. PM sent.

Alright thanks for the info everyone. I know the core support and some of the front end will need to be swaped, but would i have alter firewalls and such to make the HO fit? Just wondering because i'm not set up for sheet metal work.

This is what I read from that post "It would be alot cheaper and save A TON of time and headaches to just sell it and buy a MJ (edited) with the 4.0" :(

My 2.5 has been a great, yet gutless, motor. I think i have found a good donor ,96 XJ, with 4.0 HO with around 125,xxx miles on it for $300. I haven't seen it yet but thought i would get some input before i pursued it more. Just a few questions. 1.) Is this swap possible for these year models? 2). If so, is this a fairly straight forward swap? 3). What were the trans options in the 96 model years? Thanks in advance :cheers:

PM Sent.

Just thought i would give my opinion. My MJ (2.5l) had the same type of problems (backfiring thru intake etc). I replaced the timing chain and CPS, no good. Then i removed the lifters an noticed that the exhaust lifter on number two cylinder was shot. Next step was to remove the cam and found no lope left on the 2 exhaust. This was causing my issues. I'm not sure if it possible to remove the lifters in a 4.0 without removing the head but it is on a 2.5. Hopefully its something with fuel and not mechanical. Just my limited info.

I would like the seat but i would guess the shipping would be :nuts: .

Bonded Title thats what its called. I forgot. Sorry about the double post above. :oops:

I had almost the same issue. I went to the tag office and they gave me a form to fill out (not sure of the form number). and then i called the police department and they came out and checked the Vin to see if it was stolen. After that i took it to a attorney office and they filed this form and got a sworn statement from me that I was the new owner and I did not steal it. With in 10 days i had a new title. Not sure if this would work where you live but thats how its done in GA.

It is possible. You need to remove the tach from the cluster and then ajust the pet. There is not a correct setting for any truck but on a 2.5 it should ideal around 700 + or - 50 rpm Here is a picture of what your looking for

I have been on here a while and just thought i would share a few pics of the comanche... I still have to replace the bumper and paint the headlight buckets but not to bad shape over all. :cheers:

I'm having the same problem and i have moved the pot about 15 times. :???:

The center of the white spot was on the screw is where this one was set at from the factory (I pulled it from a 4.0). Maybe this will be a good starting point.

Check this page outhttp://www.sunpro.com/faq_detail.php?pid=16334&id=34 Hope this helps. :cheers:

HUH? My 2.5 will not do that.!!! :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2:

Thanks for the info. Is this the correct Knob? Just making sure, I hate reconnecting the speedo cable :fs1: .

I recently replaced my dummy lights gauges with a new full gauge setup. :thumbsup: Everything seems to work correctly except for the tach. It seems that it is not reading a true RPM (it seems low to me). Just wondering if there was any difference between the auto and manual tach? :dunno: (Mine is a manual BTW.)

I am starting to realize this... :rotfl2: But what fun it is. :cheers: No the stater does not engage, I have to turn the key to restart. I will try this this weekend. And I found the FSM and downloaded it. :clapping: How much is the starter Relay?

All right it seems that everytime i replace or fix something a new problem pops up. :fs1: This time its the starter. About once every three to four starts the starter will hang and continue to engage and turn the flywheel. The only way to stop it is to pull the - battery cable. Other than that it starts and runs fine. Not to sure what to check for. :cheers:

I'm not sure of the bolt size, but I vaguely remember using a 1/2 socket to remove it. :dunno: On mine the tensioner bolt sits flush when everything is tightened down. Try losening the bolts in the back of the pump and see if it moves. I have the 2.5 but i think the brackets are the same.

Everything went back stock (will be building a new motor to replace the 2.5 in the future), nothing exciting, had a lot to replace due to mileage (253,000). Number 2 Exhaust lobe was wiped and caused a few problems ;) .

Installed new head, camshaft, waterpump, rotorcap, wire, spark plugs, and valve cover. Only forgot the CPS but will get to that next week end. :yes:

Anyone know if these would work on the Comanche? Only info that i know about them are they came of a Wrangler.

I had to remove the cylinder head on my 2.5l for replacement. Now every thing is almost back together and i can not for the life of me remember how they go back. (Should have labeled them.) :oops: Any one have a good pic or drawing of how they go back? Thanks