Sir Sam

For as inexpensive as the certifit header panel is I would just pick it up and paint it. Also for how cheap the turn signals and marker lights are from certifit I would get those as well, the new shiny non faded lights really clean up the front end and set it off when theres new paint up there. certifit will also have the bumper brackets(might not get those with the bumper), as well as bumper and end caps if the ones you get are too crappy. What do the doors look like? Drivers airbag should be pretty cheap, you will need to get the clockspring or at least the plug to get soldered in. The airbag plug usually melts to the back of the airbag and is unusable in the future. There is no module that needs to be replaced, just the airbags and the clockspring/plug. Sometimes the fuse blows down in the interior fusebox.

Also, if that had been at my local auction I would have to pay 1500-2000 for it.

Damm your halfway to having that thing fixed. I would say go ahead and spend a little more and flip it. From my perspective I come across lots of cheap wrecked/non fixable donors 97+ every day(rolled smashed etc). I don't come across lots of lightly damaged cheaply fixed 97+'s everyday. Check out certifit for the rest of your 97+ stuff you need: $150 in paint, $100 for some airbags, $100 for the rest of the front end parts you need and you have a fixed flipper. Just think, with the money you make off of this one you could buy another donor that wasn't fixable plus all sorts of goodies for the mj.......

Damage looks pretty minor, personally I'd fix it and flip it.

They are working on making a mini one that is rear engine/RWD that you use a TDI chassis for. I want to get me one of them.

Mine does too, but most of the vehicles I buy get signed over to me and I don't have a choice to leave the title blank for the next owner. Plus, it would take a long time for me to sell off every little part to get up to the $3000 mark. Tossing in a new engine is a pretty cheap and easy thing to do. Parting sometime out is long and tedious. Seems kinda odd to part something out with a good title that just needs an engine. Sure if it was rolled, wrecked, missing a title, etc.

$500 for the Jeep, $300 for an engine, $200 for title fees. $1000 jeep that would sell for $4000. Personally I would rather just throw an engine in and make $3000. Seems a lot quicker than trying to part it out. title fees? guess I'm abnormal and don't give a crap about the law or somethin...but if I buy a vehicle, unless it's goin in my name, it sure as hell isn't gettin registered by me. Part of the costs of doing business the way I do it. Can't drive a vehicle without plates, people don't want to buy a vehicle without test driving it. Plus most of the time when I purchase a vehicle doing a title skip is not possible. Your exception with "title fees" aside, my statement still stands, flip it for quicker and greater profit.

$500 for the Jeep, $300 for an engine, $200 for title fees. $1000 jeep that would sell for $4000. Personally I would rather just throw an engine in and make $3000. Seems a lot quicker than trying to part it out.

http://mountainwest.traauctions.com/kws ... exit=close :( :( :( :( :(

Thursday made sense to me, as a night when I wouldn't believe there is many things keeping people from home. I know a lot of after school things that happen Mon, Tue, Wed, and many people won't be home on a Fri night being out and about... Just thought it would be a good jumping off point... No idea... I wouldn't think so. If its been done once to 58 with no dire results, I think we could do it again... Rob L. Thursday's no good, how about 2:30am on sunday, closing time at the bars and all seems like a good time to try.

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So how much money and parts did he take from you that you'll never get back?

And so did all my mercedes. But for some reason while I am fine with it being there in the mercedes, in the KJ it drives me nuts. Very unnatural feeling place for it. Plus with the door lock switch right up where the window switches should be I keep hitting the door locks when I want to rolldown the windows.

I have seen lots of rust on XJ's in pictures. Those XJ's were 15-25 years old. I have also seen KJ's with minor rust issue's that were 5 years old. I am not in a heavily rust prone area to have the experience to compare what bad KJ rust looks like at 5 years to what bad XJ rust looks like at 20 years. The fact that the XJ's overall are older than the KJs means that its hard to subjectively compare rust with either.

My 88, 89, 96, 99, 00, 00, 00 and 01 XJ's all came with the 242, in my opinion, a much better option. Yup, got 23mpg in my XJ just last week on the highway doing 80mph. Fair enough and no I can't, though in the XJ's defense the last one I had with the D35 was my 88 and 89, all the others had the 8.25. I agree. I completely disagree, stock for stock and modified and modified I believe the XJ is much more capable than the KJ. I agree it is more rigid, and safer. I don't see anyway around that. Can't speak to the rust issue as nothing rusts around here. Yes it is easier to get in and out. However the rear seats also don't fold flat, and the rear has less cargo room than the XJ. If you need to haul anything besides people in the back the XJ is far better. Ya probably, but chances are if you want to mod a new KJ your not thinking about modding an old XJ. I am planning to when I repaint mine. I think the KJ was a success, and the production numbers speak to that. While I will never like the KJ as much as the newer XJ's the KJ does have a lot going for it. I took a good look at a new KK last week, much more impressed with the interior and the rear cargo area. Would love to upgrade to one if it had a diesel.

for the lip consider taking off the weight(or the tire and weight) mouting them on a drive axle at low speed, and make a mini lathe out of the wheel. Then I would take a 600 grit wetsand paper and let it do the work of stripping and polishing the lip. Then move up to a higher grit and finish with polish. Do it right and you'll get that nicely machined look back. Mask off lip, repaint center, clear coat whole wheel. With some real automotive paint and some real clearcoat with the tire removed you could refinish them very nicely. Personally I would just scrub em really good and throw them on. Then 2-3 years from now when they are really crappy looking refinish them.

Without all that lame crap on it it would be a nice stock Jeep. :fs2:

Ya I noticed that later, need to find a correct photo. EDIT fixed it. KJ wheel guide is up online: http://colorado4wheel.com/jeepwheels/kjwheels.html

ZJ wheel post is now online: http://colorado4wheel.com/jeepwheels/zjwheels.html

2000-2002 TJ with the 16" wheel option is what they came on.

TJ section is online: http://colorado4wheel.com/jeepwheels/tjwheels.html

Nah, I think its better with. Nah, the picture is pretty good already for identifying the wheel. Unless you can get a super clear, high rez, nice glamor shot that I can link to I would say its good enough. Ok until I get some more user contributed photos the Xj wheels are pretty filled out. The ones I need are noted on the side. I'm onto TJ wheels!

Thanks, I'll use that when I get to the TJs.

Yes that's what other people have said. And others have said Jeep referred to them as the 10 spokes in their brochures back in the late 80s. Thanks for the photo, I'm going to use it. Super clean wheel too! Black was one of the variations of that wheel, someone may have polished the lip themselves. I may use that as a picture of the black wheels. They originally came on black limiteds in a certain year range.

I started this project back in jan of 09, tonight for some reason I picked it up again. I decided tonight that keeping a website organized with all the different wheels would be the best way to go about this, and since it was an abandoned project I would finish something up and keep going with it to build content on my website. So, here should be a complete summary of the XJ wheels: http://colorado4wheel.com/jeepwheels/xjwheels.html I am requesting any additional photos you have taken of these same wheels. By providing those photos you give consent for them to be cropped and used on my website. Only 4 of the photos shown are owned by me and the rest are "borrowed" from other sites until I can get some that are freely published. I am planning to make a gallery page for each wheel with additional photos, photos of the variations etc. I will also be adding links to a photo of the specific variation, IE black inset, or grey Icon wheel. After that I move onto TJs and go from there. Please look over the already posted information for accuracy etc. Thanks all!