Sir Sam

your 96 master/booster is the same thing, just grab the non ABS lines and such from a non ABS XJ and you can use what you have already.

youngins

Actually, the glove box and the gauge cluster can both be pulled as separate units and replaced as so, I have done them both. Cluster on my XJ and Glove Box (two bolts, found one in Junk Yard that my key fit ) on the Comanche. But you could be correct about the pad itself... Edit: disregard comment on glove box, I'm sure you mean the inside piece, and not the hinged door, in which yes, you are absolutely correct. No, I meant the door and cluster can stay attached to the dash when you pull it(along with the wiring harness's and all, including the fuse box), its pretty much one big unit that can come out together.

dash pad is part of the whole dash. glove box guage cluster etc all comes out as one unit.

Yup, that little hole thing on the timing cover does not exist on the ~94+ belt setup. Just went through this last weekend trying to put one on and decided it wasn't worth the trouble to try and cut that off at the time.

All those parts are just what any aftermarket collision repair place will have(with perhaps exception of the floor pans or rockers). Things like the lights, grills, etc are all great quality, and why pay $10 for a used light at a junkyard when you can get a new one for $12 thats perfect brand new looking? The fenders will be of a thinner gauge, and fitment isn't quite right. But they are perfectly useable. The 97+ header will be crap made of plastic. You have to pay real money to get a good header panel.

I've done this before. :D

Actually that was mostly true, once I got into fixing it they started talking about wanting to buy it(though I initially just bought it for a flip), she really is about to have her second kid, and he really does have a POS mustang that they need to replace, and I really was getting it ready thinking that she and her kids would be driving around in it. When we came close to the end of me working on it I got a response of "well I think we want to get a wrangler" which tells me that they don't really know what they need, and that he wants a toy. They are both younger than me(24) and are expecting a second kid, and he wants a toy instead of something that will actually get them to work. They were going to have to borrow the money from my aunt and uncle to buy it from me, and he wants to get a toy. :doh: But as far as the deception, people don't like to hear that you bought a vehicle with the sole purpose to fix it and resell it. And if they know what you pay for it then they think they can get a deal, it don't work that way, I've spent $2764.85 so far on it, and its getting higher and higher. Lets say I wind up with $3300 tied up in it and get $4300 out of it. That's $1000 profit considering I've had my money tied up since last friday, and 2 weeks if you consider that my cash was sitting with the auctioneer since the friday before that. If I move really quick maybe in another 2 weeks I can get it for sale. So when people think "well crap, your making money off of it anyways, then I can talk you down a bunch" it makes it harder to deal. If people think I'm already stretching it(which I am) then they are less likely to try and lowball you. It's all games, I hate it and I hate being "On" when it comes time to make a sale, but I suck it up and say my thing. When I buy a car I look at it, add up what I need to do in my mind and tell them what I can afford to pay. If the numbers don't line up they don't line up, but other people want to haggle and deal, and I have to deal with that. Don't hate the player, hate the game. :smart:

Each TRA location is different. Mine used to be Klode, but now its been absorbed into the mass known as TRA, so while TRA seems to have many locations, my bidders account is only good a TRA mountain west (aka klode).

This particular auction does not require you to be anything other than a registered bidder, $75 a year renewal and $75 setup fee. iaai.com is another big one, but its $250 a year and has various licensing requirements. Sometime only a sales tax ID is good enough, others require dealers license or salvage license etc.

Jack it back into place and then bondo smooth, I doubt I will put on a new roof skin, but that may change, who knows.

Pics: Unfortunatly it looks like some body work was done a long time ago that while being a GREAT spray and bodywork, was never sealed correctly and rusted from the inside, I guess I get to be the guy to strip it off and fix it, I'll probably just pickup a new rear door to call that one good. Dumbass wasn't wearing their seatbelt when it happened and hit the steering wheel and bent it. Ya the airbag may save your life, but if you hit the steering wheel hard enough with your chest to bend it your probably gonna wish you had your seatbelt on. Dumbass. I guess now I HAVE to put that Overland Steering wheel on. It was also a smokers car so there are cig burns on the seats as well a smell to it. I swear smokers cars are always so revolting, I have to get the smell out of the thing to sell it. Between Homicide, Suicide and Smokers cars I tell ya the smoke is the nastiest, its much easier to get out other smells than smoke smells. Someone stole the faceplate off of it between when I saw it and when I got it delivered to me this morning, *******s, I might see if I can get a new one, or I might just throw in a 6 disk changer I have here from a KJ and call it good, depends on if they hacked the wiring behind the radio or not.

Well the Jeep was delivered today, turns out it did come with a correct cut security key, but that key was never programmed to the vehicle. Plus it seems like the tranny shift cable is off or broken or something, it looks like its stuck in drive because when I jump start it(ran power down to the starter solenoid) lurches forward on me, so I need to get the shifter fixed, then I ought to be able to start it without it lurching forward on me, and move it around 3 secs at a time.

I had an exhaust stud break off in the head about 2 mm in. And of course that stuff is the hardest known material man and drill. So I put everything else back on and said phuck it.

Are you calling me a moran? Why would you be pretty sure you were joking?

I did the whole floor, its noticable, its hard to quantify, but its sort of like, whoa, its quiet back here now.

Well ya I like it, I think its a better solution than the dynamat type of stuff, lighter and more cost effective for the sound insulation properties than dynamat. The company has some VERY convincing videos on their website and youtube that shows them hitting a symbol with and without the coating, though I'm not sure how accurate that analogy is for a vehicle driving. I would like to hear some sound transmission tests with a coated and uncoated panel.

Well I got the build sheet back today, turns out it does have a sentry key, which if the key is really missing is going to cause me problems, on the info page it says "YES" to keys, but the miles were never recorded, and "N/K" (no key) is written on the windshield from when it came in. Hopefully they got the keys later and its included, but incase it doesn't have a key I stopped by the dealer and got a non chipped one made, I won't be able to start it with that key, but I at least will be able to move the thing around untill I can find a DRBIII or a locksmith to reprogram the key. The thing of it is the sentry key won't stop a smart thief, if you have a key and matching SKIM you can plug those in to the existing SMIK circuit(leaving the one it came with, and that will send the "OK" message on the PCI bus to the ECU to start it, then you just need to crack the tubmler out to start it. Keeps the honest people honest, and the dumb criminals honest.

Boy, I hope I didn't get myself in over my head on this one, first WJ I have ever bought so theres gonna be a learning curve: http://auc2.traauctions.com/kws/napplic ... kid=983964

New Radiator and source some hoses from a 91+ HO.

Now you just need a dual diaphragm booster and master from an XJ in there.

LOL. This one got me last year so I was prepared. I deleted all of my current alarm profiles and made new ones...except I set them all for 6:30PM. I can never win... Ha ya I did the same thing recently too, set a 4 am alarm for a flight, ended up setting it for 4pm. Still made the flight though, so I can't complain too much.

Dammit, I need to update my phone again, this happened last year too! My phone adjusts for daylight savings, but a glitch in the software means that now all my alarms are still going off at the same time as they did before DST. So my 8am alarm woke me up at 7am today. You win again DST/iPhone software update!

Then my clocks are all off. Lol only until morning. And then there's massive confusion untill the clocks get changed. :doh: :doh: :doh:

Then my clocks are all off.