Sir Sam

Your factory intake is already a "cold air" Even on newer XJs without the "cold air" it doesn't really make a difference. If you want a "cone intake" go for it, but don't get a K&N or other crapola, get something quality. K&N flows better by sacrificing filtration, amsoil for example won't.

:shake: pipe dream. if you had that big of a increase your factory filter had to of been extremely dirty i was getting 27-29 prior to the swap. ive been driving with this setup for over 2 years now and ive been getting anywhere from 30-34 mpg on long trips. so sorry, i guess that means 1-7mpg hwy. call it a pipe dream but your not the one crunching the numbers and reaping the benefits. why would i lie? the air box out of the factory on my car was NOT designed for fuel economy, it was designed for comfort. Designed for comfort? You must drive downhill with a tailwind a lot.

Nope it sure doesn't, there's more to the skill of the operator than the paint. But I do have to admit some paints just shoot smoother and nicer than others, and generally the more you pay the better the spray.

That's not a cold air intake, just a $75 autozone intake. Unless you get the source outside the engine bay its still gonna suck hot air from inside the engine bay. Those pictures were from a build thread on the avenger forum when i was putting it together so its not my completed cai. They just show the most detail and serve as an example. There's actually already setup the perfect little hole right in front of the airbox, connect that up with the airbox inlet and it will suck cool air from behind the headlight. actually where the stock airbox was taken out, there was a space above the grill and below the hood where the air horn stuck out of the air box. i placed the filter in that place for that reason. I wouldnt pull air from around the headlamp because they are designed to produce heat. Due to aerodynamics, the best place to pull air from is towards the bottom of the bumper where most fog lamps are placed on vehicles. There is low pressure air there while you are driving and you will pull in the coolest air you possibly can there. I know thats not ideal for offroad trucks though. This has increased my fuel economy by 4-6MPG hwy. I leave the "headlamp because they are designed to produce heat" debate for another day, and pose this question. Which is hotter, the back of a headlight when its on or the back of a radiator and AC condenser? This whole discussion is moot though, I'm betting you would be hard pressed to show any real difference between a true cold air intake, and the factory cold air intake found on the renix setups(or for that matter the engine bay sucker of the 97+ XJs.

Here's some single stage Nason low VOC paint:

Limco line by BASF. The base is cheap, but the clear is expensive, hence why the single stage is attractive for budget minded repaints. The single stage paints will be cheaper than rattle cans, and give better results. The base/clear will give professional quality results, but cost a ton more. For $100 you could repaint a vehicle with matching single stage paint, $100 will get you about half a vehicles worth of clear coverage.

This is not the white jeep that I just did, this in on my yellow XJ. Why is that they only rub on one side? Always wondered... Never put much thought into it though. Rob L. Because we have the trackbar pulling to one side. Either you don't lift it enough and it rubs on one side or you have sagging and the suspension droops to the other side. You will always have rubbing on one side unless you are super vigilant with trackbar adjustment to compensate for suspension height when installed, loaded, and finally settled/sagged. Yuppers, track bar moves it from side to side, you need different length track bars for different height lifts too. In my case I am on stock suspension so there is no adjustment to be done with the trackbar. It also not really worth trying to get an adjustable track bar setup, You cannot make it rub statically on the control arm, only when turned to the lock, dynamically, under load. And since the track bar is smooth the little bit of rub doesn't hurt anything. Plus the other half of the year I run my summer tires where the control arm isn't needed at all. The Caster adjustment also makes a little bit of difference, and that is also different from side to side.

Shooting with a paint gun is really the only way to go when repainting a vehicle. Cheaper than spray cans per unit cost, and the results are way better. Like I said in that other thread, this what $15 of paint will get ya(just the hood): That was a single stage acrylic enamel, little buffing after shooting it and your golden. I really like base/clear, better color depth, easier to spray for good results(base is just about impossible to mess up, clear shoots smooth easier, but you have to be careful of runs because you can't see how thick it is) This is a base clear XJ I did this summer:

No, just drivers. Left the stocker on the passenger side.

As in the hood is open the latch is stuck closed. Sick a screwdriver in there and manually open the latch, also see that the cable is pulling on it. Ah I get it now, just kind of a round about way of saying "my hood is open and the latch is frozen so it won't latch".

Stock wheels.

As you can see here the WJ control arm curves to accomodate a larger tire, it also is boxed and is a good deal stronger than the XJ arm.: Even still, at full lock while turned I still get a little rub(with my 30.7x9.8 tires): The WJ arms use a slightly thicker bushing, you will need to grind off about 1/16-1/8" inch before they will fit into the XJ brackets.

Wait, you have a renix 4L? You do know those come from the factory with a "cold air intake" right?

You have any issues with rubbing on the drivers side lower control arm? Mine at 10" wide rubbed pretty bad on the stock control arm, and still rub a little on the WJ control arm. How much are you lifted?

take the headlight bezel out, then the headlight and headlight holder, and then unbolt the latch, once the hood is up you can figure out whats going on and repair/replace it.

Load range E tires are meant to be aired up super high, they are stiffer and will not bulge and wear in the center until they are over inflated. If you put 50PSI in a load range B tire thats 42% over inflated, if you put 50PSI in a load range E tire thats about 38% under inflated. B 4 B 35 psi (240 kPa)*** C 6 C 50 psi (350 kPa)*** D 8 D 65 psi (450 kPa)*** E 10 E 80 psi (550 kPa)*** F 12 F 95 psi (650 kPa)***

That's not a cold air intake, just a $75 autozone intake. Unless you get the source outside the engine bay its still gonna suck hot air from inside the engine bay. There's actually already setup the perfect little hole right in front of the airbox, connect that up with the airbox inlet and it will suck cool air from behind the headlight.

Higher PSI = stiffer tire = better mileage. Downside is a stiffer ride, but I don't really notice. Thing is, you can air em way up, so you might as well. E's are super heavy though, but kinda like breasts I figure if D's are good E's are even better.

A snorkel is the best cold air intake you can ever get.

Cold knife or an extractor. Chances are your gonna break it, just consider buying a new windshield from a place like Pilkington.

Why thank you. :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: The tires on my Jeep are load range E, I keep em aired up at about 60 PSI. Unless you're carrying around blocks of lead you are going to wear out the center of your tires quick I feel...right? Load Range E tires have a max inflation of 80PSI. Running 35 PSI in 30 PSI max tires is bad. Running 35 PSI in 80PSI tires is not bad. Running 25 PSI in 30PSI tires is not bad.

No, they are not. The AW-4, AX-4/5, and BA 10/5 crossmembers are the same. The AX-15's is similar, but different. I sure a sh-t can't tell a difference between them. They do use the same tranny mount though, its really the plate that bolts to the tranny and the mount that you need.

Man, a flywheel and flex plate are two very different things. I don't mean to sound rude, but if you don't know that you might not have the knowledge to undertake this operation.

The AW4, AX15, AX5, NV3550, AX4 crossmembers are all the same. However there is a bracket/plate that bolts to the tranny that then bolts to the tranny mount, this is different between the different transmission, you will need the NV3550 specific one.

Why thank you. :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: :brows: The tires on my Jeep are load range E, I keep em aired up at about 60 PSI.