Sir Sam

There are tones of legitimate reasons to do this other than to intentionally defraud someone during a vehicle sale. In my case I am planning to set to zero for my MJ build. It's basically a total rebuild with all different parts. Really the only thing thats staying from the original MJ is the body, bed, and tail lights. I'm doing a 2001 XJ interior swap, jeep 2500 exterior, rear axle from an 05 KJ, and my biggest deal of all, a ZERO mile factory diesel engine. And since its something I'm keeping for myself I feel completely justified setting the odometer at Zero for my MJ build. But more on that later. And: Colorado considers any vehicle over ten years old to be "Not actual mileage" and doesn't care about the odometer after that point. I'll be working on a video today showing how to do this as part of a repair, I have a cluster where the right half of the gauges failed, and how you would program your junkyard replacement to match your old failed cluster. The other reason you might like this is if you were upgrading from the idiot light cluster to the full cluster, you would want your replacement cluster to match your idiot light cluster.

I've been thinking about buying a diesel land cruiser 70 series. Might be fun. I have enough projects right now though.

LOL. don't worry, the rock will be fine. Thanks for looking all.

I went to watch the second to last shuttle launch.......and missed it because of delays of the launch and our flights. I met Buzz Aldrin when I was......maybe 10-11? He had co-authored a science fiction book and was signing copies, got a signed copy of the book, and took in a paper poster of him on the moon and got that signed. Good stuff to keep around.

Wheel chock. Yes, I have used them for that. See also - tow stubbing.

Learning is fun!

I opened up a tube of seam sealer, I had the option to buy brush on or caulk tube, so I went with the black caulk tube. I think I might order some of the brush on and see how it works, I'm nut sure the caulk gun method is always the best for what I need to do. This image has black seam sealer on black por15, so its a little hard to make out, the short is there is a patch panel, por 15 over the area top and bottom, and then seam sealer over the weld area. The seam sealer came out in in long strands from the tube, so I spread it around evenly with a wood paddle to flatten and smooth. It seems to cover pretty well and the consistency and rubber pliability look good long term. Its a urethane product so it should hold up well long term. I dug the body harness out of the mess of stuff in the bed, I need to make some modifications in the rear section. The white plugs in the lower right of the image are usually behind the plastic which is under the spare tire carrier. These plug into the turn signals and factory wiring harness for trailer lights. The MJ uses a different tail light setup than the XJ - its the same as what the XJ wagoneers had. This is more what trailer lights are like, or older vehicles. So the brake and turn are combined into one bulb. I need to do some rewire work, including what I will do for trailer lights, and shorten the wiring to sit in the cab as those connectors are not weather rated. Right now I am planning to put them in the drivers rear void space behind where the stock rear speaker sits. Then I will tie that in with the factory plugs to the MJ rear harness that exits through a rubber grommet in the floor.

At least here in CO I have not yet had issues with headlights icing up with my LEDs.

Gotcha, first read through of your post it seemed like you were referring to XJs. But ya reading again i read it different.

Actually most XJ were 4L and Aw4 auto. These all had 3.55s. 4L and manual had 3.07s. I'm not sure I have ever come across an XJ with something other than that. But 4cyl XJs are so rare it's almost a moot point trying to find axles from a 4cyl.

Yup, thats a good little device, and necessary for trailer setup at times. To do what I am talking about with the dual filament bulbs for the turn signals would require a device like that to power the second filament for the turn signal. This is a little bit moot for me though, I have XJ wiring that provides the parking, brake, and turn as separate filaments.

Another vote for the 2003+ KJ rear. I have one with 3.73s and a limited slip. It makes a very good swap for the MJ and coming from a jeep that replaced the XJ makes it an easier swap in than some other options. I have a couple of videos videos showing the details of using this axle in an MJ.

I'd point again that a dual filament bulb in LED would allow the brake light circuit and turn signal circuit to come on at the same time. This doesn't solve the seperate amber issue, but does allow for both turn and brake. Would be sweet if if we could customer make our own with a dual bulb for parking/brake, amber for turn, and reverse. That would be like the XJ application.

I finished cutting off the old bracket and I got the new one trimmed to fit. I finished cleaning up the floor with the wire wheel and flap disked the area where the bracket needs to be welded down. I'll hit them with some copper weld through primer before welding, then follow up with seam sealer and POR15.

Ya too bad the core missed out, but seeing the other two land at the same time was cool.

I light of todays launch, I got some new desktops for my slideshow:

I think part of the issue with turning the reverse light into a turn signal is how it projects. Reverse lights are meant to be seen from the rear and turn signals are meant to be seen from the back and the side. If you make a reverse light light into a turn signal it won't have the correct side visibility.

Typing on an iPhone and dual went to fuel for some reason

Yup, though the mustang turn is a throwback actually, though it's stills good idea. I noticed a new mustang that do the progressive light each time the brake was applied on each side.

I agree. Having a separate indicator is safer. Have you noticed that some newer cars brake lights pulse when applied? This gets your attention much better than just coming on. At at some point I plan to get the other type of bulb socket to make the MJ use the fuel filament bulbs, and switch to led bulbs. I also plan to run to run one of those truck bed led strips with an additional turn signal and backup light. I would love to get a housing for the mirrors that had the turn signals in them as well.

Yes, the 4wd is like AWD. Hi lock or low is good for off-road. I will use the hi lock when snow and ice is pretty bad, but once roads are more wet and just a little snowed or I wet I goto the AWD. Even in rainy conditions the awd helps in keeping traction. When i I am actually off-roading I'm usually in lo lock, I off-road in the mountains here and I want to lower gearing the lo lock provides. You can shift on the fly to either of the 4wd hi modes. But to enter lo you need to be stopped, with the tabs in neutral, and then shift into lo lock. Likewise to leave lo you will need to be stopped with the trans in neutral. CAD refers to center axle disconnected, which your axle does not have. In the 87-90 years of jeeps if you got the np231 transfer case you got the CAD front axle. If you got the NP242 like you have you got a non CAD axle. This is a good thing as generally the CAD mechanism would break leaving you without 4wd.

Yours being an 87 means its the first year of the 4L, and the Aw4, and the NP242. The "full time" or "part time" nomenclature started up in 88 and on. Basically, your "Hi lock" means "Part Time" and your 4wd means "full time", then neutral, then your "Lo Lock" means "4 Lo part time" As stated before, "Part time" means you should only use it part of the time, since the transfer case is locked, like in mud, loose or slippery road surfaces. And since yours say "Hi lock" its actually the most intuitive nomenclature out there. In 88 they looked like this: And 97+ they looked like this: And this is the sticker that newer jeeps have on the headliner:

You can get pretty translucent prints, albeit not transparent. But that might be fine for lenses. The problem is to get a quality reproduction you really need to injection mold, and thats expensive. There might be some hope in hell of getting one of the chinese makers to make some if you had the original tooling. Doing this on a hobby level we could 3d print the rear relfector housing, and 3d print a translucent lens, potentially with coloring or different patterns, it might offer a solution to non existent replacement tail lights, but it would be hard to make them like an OEM copy.

Yup tail lights were all the same, and yes front export turns were also amber. ZJs were the same way:

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