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reson46

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Everything posted by reson46

  1. Lack of a steering stablilizer will not cause this. Bad rear shocks will not cause this. As Eagle stated, any movement between the body and the axle is controlled by the track bar. This is where your problem is. Have somebody turn the wheel back and forth as you inspect the track bar. It should become pretty obvious where your problem is. Willy
  2. The Ruff Stuff cover has the cut outs, but they don't exactly line up. :shake: Willy
  3. This is one of the best mounting systems I have seen for long arms on an XJ/MJ. It is very well thought out and takes the unibody weaknesses into account. Willy
  4. I'd be interested in seeing some more pictures of your rear suspension. :D Willy
  5. Thanks! Here is their web site. This is the belly pan. It doesn't list the control arm mounts for the belly pan so I would ask them to send you one with the mounts if you plan to attach your control arms to their belly pan. They are very helpful. They lengthened my belly pan so that it would protect both of my transfer cases. They also offer the Y-Link upgrade that you may want to consider. It includes the belly pan and the long arms unless you just really want to make your own arms. This is the route I went. They currently don't offer the unibody stiffeners for MJs, only XJs. I asked if they would work on MJs when I ordered the suspension. They said they could be made to work, but there are so many differences between the unirails that it would be more worthwhile to make your own. Willy
  6. That's a pretty cool idea for the tow points. How are they attached to the uniframe? Willy
  7. In my opinion, swapping in a low pinion D30 is definitely not worth it, whether you are lifted or not. It is taking a step back in strength. High pinion, non CAD D30s with 4.10 gears are not rare, so it shouldn't be too hard to find one. If I were you I would check out Car-Part.com for '97 to '99 XJs with 4.10 gears for the front axle. Some time in '96 they started using the larger 297x u-joints and I think it was some time in '00 they went to low pinion D30s in the XJs (the change over may have been some time '01, I don't remember for sure). This will give you three benefits over your current axle - eliminate the CAD, larger 297x axle shaft u-joints, and 4.10 gears. It will bolt up and then all you need to do is regear the rear axle. Willy
  8. Pulled off the front bumper and started welding. Spent some time with the grinder. Added gussets to the side tubes. Willy
  9. Towing something in reverse is a quick way to break a front axle u-joint. It is best to turn around and tow it out from the proper direction. Willy
  10. I concur with the suggestions of lower gears. But, before you tear apart the engine, you may want to make sure the oil pressure is too low. For the 4.0L it is normal to have low oil pressure at idle when hot. If I remember correctly somewhere around 12 psi is normal when idling hot. Willy
  11. The Hummer H1 Alpha with the Duramax was only available in 2006. This was the only year the Duramax was available. Prior to that was the 6.5 and 6.2. Willy
  12. Without the vacuum canister your HVAC, cruise control, and probably some other things won't work properly. The HVAC will only blow out of one set of vents - can't remember which. You won't be able to switch from the floor to dash to defrost vents. It goes in the front bumper on the passenger side. You should see a couple of holes in the bottom of the bumper that line up with the mounting holes in the vacuum canister. You should also only have one canister. Looks like you have a spare. Willy
  13. The Duramax has never been offered in a Suburban. The last couple of generations have not had a diesel option. Willy I know. We've been asking, and the answer has always been "maybe next year, but no promises". Now that they are making a smaller Duramax, besides the original 6.6, it (the smaller one) is supposed to be available in the 2009 models that have been available since like February of this year. This is second hand information, though, as I have not yet seen one myself. Frankly, I think the 2009 body style sucks @$$. GM, as well as most of the others, have plans for smaller diesels in their 1500 series cars in the next few years. But, these are not yet available, including the 2009 models. I agree. The new GM body styles are hideous. I would almost say that their stylists are blind, but I would hate to offend the blind by comparing them to a GM employee. Maybe they are going for ugly and mechanically inferior. :nuts: Willy
  14. The Duramax has never been offered in a Suburban. The last couple of generations have not had a diesel option. Willy
  15. Have you checked out the Jeep Strokers forum? They may be able to help. Willy
  16. It is currently sitting to the side waiting for paint. Once I pull the front bumper off for finish welding I'll pull the MJ out of the garage so that I have room to paint it. Willy
  17. I'm in the Seattle area. Willy
  18. Have you bent the axle tubes? Willy
  19. That is a bit of a pet peeve of mine. Every forum is filled with ridiculous claims and hearsay, but I am yet to first hand meet anybody or experience these magical MPG numbers. :D Willy
  20. No idea yet. I haven't taken it off to finish welding it. Willy
  21. x2 Same here. Does that camera have an auto setting? Willy
  22. No, they did not. Dodge made extended cab trucks in the '90s, nothing with four full doors. Starting in '98 they added the suicide doors to the extended cab and called it a quad cab. Starting in '03 Dodge "almost" offered a truck with four full doors which they continued to call the quad cab. This was an attempt to satisfy extended cab and crew cab buyers with one truck. It had forward hinged rear doors that were larger than an extended cab but not as large as a true four door. GM did put the 6.2 and 6.5 diesels in K5s and 1500 Suburbans in the '88 to '98 body styles (I'm not sure if it was offered clear to '98). These were known for getting good mileage. The 6.5 doesn't have the reputation of the early Powerstrokes or Cummins, but they are not entirely bad engines. They will work just fine for what you want. But, keep in mind that mileage stories are like fish stories. Basically any story you hear about somebody getting 25+ MPG while towing at 75 MPH is complete BS. Willy
  23. If you have play in the steering check all of your tie rod ends and your track bar mounts. That is most likely where the problem is. Willy
  24. Thanks, but I think I'm going to take a break before I start another big project. :D Willy
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