reson46

Good luck. That place looks nice. Willy

Thanks...and good luck. :thumbsup: Willy

I don't frequently look through the classifieds because I find them a little hard to use. A lot of things I am looking for or would like to get rid of I don't really care to bother with shipping, I would rather look locally first. The current format doesn't work very well for this. Rarely does anybody include the location in the title, so when I find something I am interested in I open the thread and then end up disappointed that it is clear across the country. With the relatively light traffic here, I don't think it makes sense to have a board for each state. Maybe a board for separate regions would make sense? Willy

Sorry to hear that. Do they realize all the sales they will be losing? You guys make some nice t-shirts. Could that be expanded to bring in extra income? You know I would like some MJ shirts. :D Also, now that I live in the Pacific NW, I need to supplement my supply of long sleeved shirts and sweat shirts. :brows: Best of wishes. :thumbsup: Willy

Rubicon Express makes great products. I am running their lower control arms, drop brackets, and springs. All are quality. I would have saved a lot of money if I had just started with their kit in the first place. :thumbsup: I've also wheeled with lots of other rigs running their kits - XJs, MJs, TJs, YJs, etc. I've been impressed with most of their stuff. Willy

Yes, absolutely worth it. I constantly use it to slide by rocks and trees. Willy

Pulled it out of the garage and took it for a drive. A few pics of it outside. After running the wiring for the SPAL, I had the joy of ripping half of it out and doing it again. I wanted to be able to control the fans three different ways: - Both off - Both managed by the SPAL controller - Both on My first attempt included running completely separate wiring through relays to both of the fans to control whether both fans were on with an in cab switch. I didn't realize at the time that the SPAL controller uses the ground to control the main fan. Since I added a ground for the main fan in my bypass wiring, the main fan would run constantly whether the SPAL was on or not. In the end I completely removed the relays and my original bypass wiring. What I now have are two in cab switches. Switch number 1 controls the SPAL. With this switch off, neither of the fans will run. When on, the fans are controlled through the SPAL. Switch number 2 controls if the fans are on manually, bypassing the SPAL through the AC wire of the SPAL controller. Now I have the three features I want: - Switch 1 off, switch 2 off: both fans are off - Switch 1 on, switch 2 off: both fans are controlled through the SPAL - Switch 1 on, switch 2 on: both fans are on Also spooled the winch cable. Even though I kept the cable wrapped up nicely, it still ended up in a wonderful bird's nest when I went to spool it around the winch. :doh: Added in cab winch controls. Thankfully I got that wiring right the first time. :thumbsup: Willy

I think you need to shop around more. I was able to find them in the welding section at the local hardware store. A pack of two was something like $3 or $4. I've also been able to find them in the electrical section. I'd take those back and find somewhere else to shop. :nuts: Willy

I figured they had to be something like that. I'll stick with the quality Spicer joints. Willy

:agree: and u joints are like $6 for a good one and it takes 15 minutes to put them in, id do it Where do you find these $6 u-joints? :huh???: Willy

Same as a Rubicon D44, without the locker. It's only a D44 center section. The outers are the same as a D30. Willy

Thanks, that's what I though and I installed them without those brackets. Looks like you found a nice set of brackets. :thumbsup: I'm glad they aren't the kind that only attach with the three bumper bracket bolts. :eek: Willy

Yes. Willy Freakin nice job.. They look very professional Thanks. Willy

Looks like a home made bracket for the tow bar. It's not part of the tow hook bracket and is not needed. Willy

Yes. Willy

After a couple of weeks of working on my Jeep I got back to the MJ this week. The heater control valve, thermostat, and overflow bottle are installed. I still need to hook up the SPAL controller. After tripping over the passenger side rock slider for several months, I finally installed it. I tucked it up as close to the body as I could without doing a rocker replacement. I tied the front support into the TNT belly pan. It's also attached to the pinch seam with angle iron. This is the middle support. It is attached using crush sleeves similar to the TNT belly pan mounts. This is the rear mount. I wanted to give it some vertical support. The front and middle mounts use the pinch seam for vertical support. I added this foot to the top of the uniframe to help support the rear mount. I still need to build the rock slider for the driver side. Willy

I think the inner one is a bump stop pad, not a spring perch. Willy

I think Ruff Stuff has a front axle kit too. Willy

Is the shifter out of something else? All the automatics for the 4.0s in XJs/MJs should be AW4s. If the automatic and 4.0 in the '87 are stock it should be an AW4. If it is an AW4, the '92 AW4 will swap in with one exception - the output spline count. In '87 the AW4 had a 21 spline output, '92 will be 23 spline. You could swap the transmission and transfer case from the '92 or you could swap out the transfer case input of the '87 to a 23 spline input. Willy

Using a cooler thermostat will cause the computer to think it constantly needs to run rich to warm the engine IF the cooling system is actually able to keep it that cool. These engines are designed to use a 195 degree thermostat. This just results in poor mileage and increased wear from constantly running rich. Using cooler thermostats does nothing to address the cause of a cooling issue. If the cooling system is not able to cool the engine to 180 degrees, it will continue to overheat and that cooler thermostat is doing nothing for you. Once the thermostat is open, it no longer does anything to help cool. Whatever is causing the cooling issue will continue to drive the temperature up. Willy

No, the gears do not need to be reset. Just use the same shims. Yes, it is this simple. At least in a D30 it is. Willy

What are the differences? Willy

If you are referring to the bearings on each side of the carrier in the axle you can save a lot of money by doing most of the work yourself. Remove the axles and bearing caps and the carrier should come out. You may need to use a pry bar, but it shouldn't take much. Then take the carrier to a drivetrain shop with a press. A couple of years ago it only cost me about $30 for the bearings and to have them pressed on the carrier. Willy

Completely different. The JK bolt pattern is 5x5", MJ is 5x4.5". Willy

Throw that in the trash and get the proper 195 degree thermostat. Willy