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thejum57

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Everything posted by thejum57

  1. I have a new set identical to what your'e looking for.....except instead of GMC, they have a black center with the bowtie in the center. I'll send a pic if interested. Three are never used, one was on my Corvair van for a couple of years, not on the road. Jim
  2. Eagle, thank you for the info! I'm not trying to put this off indefinately, just trying to get m convertible back on the road after a year and a half in the garage. The track bar will be the next project, I just need the truck to get to work. Thanx again. :cheers:
  3. I found out from you guys a couple of weeks ago the noise in my front end was the track bar.I'm not trying to push it, but how fast does this usually turn into death wobble? Is it still safe to drive with just an occasional clunk? And if death wobble comes, will it be cured by replacing the bar? Thanks, Jim
  4. That's one fine truck all around! That looks like an early 80's? Mine is a 76, when I got it the best part was the older re-paint. It's a stalled project now. :(
  5. I'm trying to replace the track bar bushing(s) in my Comanche. When I got them the guy said "there's 1 piece & 2 piece set", I should have asked you guys first, but I got the 2 piece. Trying to remove the bar, it looks like it's a 1 piece deal. Is there a difference? It's an 86 2WD by the way. Thanx. Jim
  6. I was laying on my back and had the wife turn the wheel sharp both ways (engine off of corse) and it was REALLY pronounced at the bushing side. Everything else seemed pretty tight...and quiet. I'll put the bushings in this weekend, hope that takes care of the problem.
  7. Geonovast, thanx for the info...I've seen talk about the "death wobble" but never paid attention. Stupid me ! I don't think the "TRE" side...no idea what that stands for :doh: is bad. The only noise is from the "bushing" side. Advance Auto has 2 seperate bushings, a 1 piece, and a 2 piece. The 2 piece looks easier to install. Is there like a cotter pin at the top of the ......nut? It's really hard to get to / see, I have a 2WD and it's low to the ground. Thanx again for the info, I guess I have a job to do this comming weekend.
  8. I heard a clunk / bang when I turned the wheel quick to the left. It's comming from here Image Not Found here is the other end bolted to the frame Is this actually part of the steering, or a stabalizer? I'm really hoping that I can buy just new bushings for it, and not a whole new rod. Also how does this thing come apart?? One more question, should I be able to use my truck to and from work, or should I be parking it untill the weekend when I can mess with it??? Thanks, Jim
  9. I can't find any pics, but I zip-tied mine to the fender up near the hood. I do have a 2.5 / 4 cylinder though. Probly gives me more room than the 6cyl.
  10. I put in a new emergency brake cable last weekendand tightened it pretty good but the truck will still move with it applied. In Mass. for inspection they apply the brake, put it in gear and give it a little gas....it's not supposed to move. I'm guessing I need to tighten up the rear brake shoes next, right? If I do that, should I back off the cabe tension a bit? Looking forward to working on it today.......it's ZERO degrees at 9:30am. Thankfully I have a kerosene heater and a garage, I may be able to get it to 50 or 60 degrees.
  11. I had to replace the front e-brake cable today, so to make it easier, I removed the back of the seat. It wasn't hard at all to remove the "torx" bolt (a first for me) and I was able to straighten out the belt! Wow, it's soooooo nice to pull the belt across.....straight.....and now it retracts. Awesome
  12. I had to replace the front e-brake cable today, so to make it easier, I removed the back of the seat. It wasn't hard at all to remove the "torx" bolt (a first for me) and I was able to straighten out the belt! Wow, it's soooooo nice to pull the belt across.....straight.....and now it retracts. Awesome
  13. I had to replace the front e-brake cable today, so to make it easier, I removed the back of the seat. It wasn't hard at all to remove the "torx" bolt (a first for me) and I was able to straighten out the belt! Wow, it's soooooo nice to pull the belt across.....straight.....and now it retracts. Awesome
  14. I had to replace the front e-brake cable today, so to make it easier, I removed the back of the seat. It wasn't hard at all to remove the "torx" bolt (a first for me) and I was able to straighten out the belt! Wow, it's soooooo nice to pull the belt across.....straight.....and now it retracts. Awesome
  15. I had to replace the front e-brake cable today, so to make it easier, I removed the back of the seat. It wasn't hard at all to remove the "torx" bolt (a first for me) and I was able to straighten out the belt! Wow, it's soooooo nice to pull the belt across.....straight.....and now it retracts. Awesome
  16. How do I go about un-twisting my seatbelt? I've had this on other vehicles, and usually you painstakingly roll it back thrugh the tiny slit. Mine seems to have a couple of twists. I've done the "tried & true" method I just mentioned, but I always end up with at least one twist. I've been living with this for a couple of years now but it's time to stop fighting it. I hope I don't need to remove the base.....I'm sure it's attached with Torx nuts....right? :mad:
  17. Just my $0.02, when I got my Comanche the "football" was broken. I only had defrost. I got another one from a budy and relocated it above the fender well under the hood behind the battery.
  18. All better, a guy from work came by tonight with a huge C clamp, and compresed the caliper, he also showed me how I could have loosened it, then pried it with a big screwdriver before removing it to compress it. All in all it was just an ID10T operator error. :doh: Thanx for all the advice and info :cheers: It stops REAL good now.
  19. Ummmm, well no the problem is ongoing :mad: I can't get the caliper to open to put it back on, stripped the bleeder nut...WITH VICEGRIPS...really clamped down :eek: It was a really bad weekend. I made 9 trips to 2 parts stores from beggining to end. A buddy at work used to be a mechanic, I'm going to have him help me finish. :wall:
  20. Here are the pics; this is what I took off the truck this is what is "supposed" to fit the 2WD this is what was there when I took off the rotor this is what removed the nut I didn't need to remove As far as I know, a friend of mine bought this truck as a "salvage title" from a junk yard. There was only one previous owner who he was able to track down. The guy junked it because he ran it after overheating, and warped the head. My friend had the head planed & fixed the problem. I don't think the original owner would even know how to change the axle, there is also no evedence that the truck was ever a 4WD...everything in the cab etc. looks OEM. Would there be any other reason to change the axle? From all that I hear, 86 Comanches seem to be different animals than all the years following, maybe that's what it is????
  21. Sorry, I usually forget to include at least ONE valuable piece of info :eek: It's an 86 2WD Comcanche. I finally got the socket from a friend...it's a 36MM BTW, took off the nut, and the rotor was still stuck on there. Whacked it a couple times with a hammer, and it came loose.....except I didn't need to remove the nut...the rotor popped off without the studs. They are mounted on a little hub that stays on the axle. Yes it is 2WD, and yes the rotor came off without the studs. I went back to the parts store (we're on a first name basis now) and exchanged the rotors with the studs attached, for the ones with no studs. The girl even said the one's I was returning come up as the correct ones for my truck :shake: well this is what I took off my truck so I'll take the other ones. They popped right on. I have pics, but having issues with transfering them so I can post. I'll post pics when I get the pics.
  22. Iv'e got everything off, the caliper, pads etc. There is a big nut that holds the rotor on....neither one will budge. I even put the tire back on, and lowered it down so the rotor can't rotate. Also I don't have a socket that big. Does anyone know what size socket it needs? 1 1/18" is too small, I bought a 1 1/2", that was to big. Iv'e been to the parts store a million times. Is there some kind of trick to getting this nut off??? It's a 2wd Commanche with the "2 piece" rotors...the studs are part of the rotor. Thanks
  23. Thanx hornbrod, I printed your response! :cheers:
  24. http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... +-+Premium http://www.napaonline.com/masterpages/N ... +-+Premium these are the options
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