Randy in Maine

It will haul all sorts of stuff to the dump or across the country and still get 20 mpg. I have the Thule 421 Sportster racks on mine and have hauled 4 kayaks on it with no problem on some pretty crappy roads along with all of the other stuff you need for kayaking/camping or whatever. Plenty of room. When the whining gets too bad I just threaten to remove the passengers seat. It quiets right down after that.

I would like to see it trying to stop.

Clean and dry that area so clean you could eat off it. If the oil is "dirty" even better. Then start it up and watch closely with a paper towel and a good flashlight. I would bet money it is the VC gasket.

If it were me, I would just go to my inspection station and ask the guy there what the max lift would be. Maine is similar and the purpose its to spare us from having people modify the suspensions in un-safe manners. Plus we don't have to deal with lowriders or skyjackers, since they won't pass the required annual safety inspections. I looked around for a minute on the MA website and could not find the reference either. Nothing is easy in MA.

I would also not even think about doing a compression test or leakdown test until it is all broken in or about 1,000 miles. It won't tell you what you are looking for.

I would also not even think about doing a compression test or leakdown test until it is all broken in or about 1,000 miles. It won't tell you what you are looking for.

From aircooled.net with a few things removed that do not apply to our watercoolers.... "Now that the "camshaft break in" is done, you want to REALLY heat the engine up by driving it hard! This loads the rings and will break the pistons, cylinders, and rings in together. Find a hill and drive full throttle up the thing a few times, in a gear that loads the engine down a bit. The loading and extra heat burns the glaze off the cylinders and allows everything to seat together well. I do not feel a longer "break in" period is needed (some say 10,000 miles) other than getting the rings seated, and this can be done in 500 miles.

From aircooled.net with a few things removed that do not apply to our watercoolers.... "Now that the "camshaft break in" is done, you want to REALLY heat the engine up by driving it hard! This loads the rings and will break the pistons, cylinders, and rings in together. Find a hill and drive full throttle up the thing a few times, in a gear that loads the engine down a bit. The loading and extra heat burns the glaze off the cylinders and allows everything to seat together well. I do not feel a longer "break in" period is needed (some say 10,000 miles) other than getting the rings seated, and this can be done in 500 miles.

Are you running a break in oil to break in the camshaft and rings? Are the rings properly broken in? After breaking in the camshaft, I change the oil. Brad Penn Break in 30 weight non-detergent dino oil. After 100 miles I change the oil and the filter. Brad Benn 15-40 Dino oil. After 1000 miles I change the oil and filter. Brad Penn 15-40 Dino oil. After 3,000 miles I change the oil and filter and if you are going to use a synthetic or partial syn oil, you can now go to that. I change my oil and filter every 5,000 miles after that. Brad Penn 10-30 partial syn.

Are you running a break in oil to break in the camshaft and rings? Are the rings properly broken in? After breaking in the camshaft, I change the oil. Brad Penn Break in 30 weight non-detergent dino oil. After 100 miles I change the oil and the filter. Brad Benn 15-40 Dino oil. After 1000 miles I change the oil and filter. Brad Penn 15-40 Dino oil. After 3,000 miles I change the oil and filter and if you are going to use a synthetic or partial syn oil, you can now go to that. I change my oil and filter every 5,000 miles after that. Brad Penn 10-30 partial syn.

Well this will get you started..... From 540 CMR 4.04 (13) Altered Vehicle Heights. The original manufacturers specified height of motor vehicles with an original manufacturers gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less shall not be altered by elevating or lowering the chassis or body by more than two inches, except that four-wheel drive motor vehicles with a original manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less may be altered in accordance with the provisions of 540 CMR 6.00. The Registrar may periodically provide approved altered vehicle height specifications for said four-wheel drive vehicles. Any motor vehicle altered, modified, or changed beyond the aforementioned two inches, or the Registrar's approved altered height specifications, shall be rejected.

Well this will get you started..... From 540 CMR 4.04 (13) Altered Vehicle Heights. The original manufacturers specified height of motor vehicles with an original manufacturers gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less shall not be altered by elevating or lowering the chassis or body by more than two inches, except that four-wheel drive motor vehicles with a original manufacturer's gross vehicle weight rating of 10,000 pounds or less may be altered in accordance with the provisions of 540 CMR 6.00. The Registrar may periodically provide approved altered vehicle height specifications for said four-wheel drive vehicles. Any motor vehicle altered, modified, or changed beyond the aforementioned two inches, or the Registrar's approved altered height specifications, shall be rejected.

WIX is also OK as is a NAPA "Gold" (made by WIX)

It would be nice if you could use a "T" and use both the mechanical gauge and the factory dash sending unit to see how close they match up. Good electrical connections on the factory sending unit is a plus also.

Try swapping around the plug wires or test the reistance of the ignition wires with your volt ohm meter. A fuel pressure test may indicate a leaking injector, but it will not say much about a poor injector spray pattern.

You have geared your final drive up an additional 4.3% with those 235/75/15 tires over what came stock. I think you can test the correct voltage output from the O2 sensor if you go over to the Renix link and test the plug under the hood with your volt ohm meter. I have yet to hook up my LM-1 to the jeep to see how close it is to what it should be though. I did have my injectors cleaned and calibrated a few years ago at www.cruzinperformance.com for cheap money and it certainly improved the performance, notably down at low speed. I also tested the fuel pressure then and it was what it is supposed to be. I still only get about 21 mpg with my 5 speed and 4.0L running 3.07 gears, stock Michelin 215/75/15 tires though on the highway shifting at 2K. I am going to check my O2 sensor here soon to see if I can do a little better.

Correct, you have no fuel rail, just a little test port on the fuel line just as it goes into the TB.

OK I had to get out my Haynes manual to see. Chapter 4 Photo 3.31 is the photo and they also say to test the fuel pressure at the rail to ensure that it is at 14-15 psi at idle. Be sure to use a FI pressure gauge (mine that I mostly use for Bosch L-tronic goes 0-60 psi). 0-30 psi is the range you are looking for. I appears that the FPR is attached to the TB on the left side of the TB and sort of looks like a small round fuel bowl with the adjustment screw on the bottom of the bowl. CW is higher pressure.

I have only worked on one of these ever, but I was thinking that the TBI ran about 14-15 psi and that the fuel pressure regulator was adjustable. The pump just puts out volume, it is the regualtor that keeps it at the correct pressure. If the pressure is really too high and adjusting th eFPR doesn't help, be looking for a clogged up return line that goes back to the fuel tank. Suggestion: Make sure you have no vacuum leaks in the system or they will drive you nuts.

Suggestion: And yes I do know where Bingham is. While it may not be "nowhere", you can see "nowhere from there in all directions.... ;) You can pick up rusted out Jeeps all over that will not get a sticker anymore for cheap money. Either 1) find a Cherokee that has the Renix set up <1990 and do a transplant to your comanche, or 2) find a later >1991 Cherokee and swap out everthing that it has that you would need.

I have great respect for both candidates. They are both honorable men and both realize that this country is not an easy one to govern, due to lots of competing interests, issues and problems. Seen this? Important to listen to the whole thing though.

Well I think I will 1) go to the dealer and pick up the OEM bearings and 2) let my guy do the install. Might be $350 well spent. I had these bearings replaced about a year ~ 10K ago and I am not sure if there is something else going on in there or what. I know this set up is not the best one out there, but I am not sure why I am having a tough time keeping them from whining. :huh???: He used the OEM bearings last time also but I wonder if they are chinese made for Jeep? Hard to tell anymore. Even Federal Mogul is chinese anymore. This thing has about 168K on it ~about 75K put on by me and I am pretty sure it has never been hit or tweaked or anything like that.

How difficult is this really to do anyway? Mine is making some noise and a vibration driving down the road. My "guy" says to plan on about $350 to fix it ..about $45 for the bearing and the rest in labor to do it. Is this something that I should tackle myself? On a scale of 1-10 (1= checking the tire pressures and 10 = rebuilding the engine) I usually feel pretty good about ~5 or less. I have a lot going on with other non-Jeep projects also. I have done a search here and read through a number of posts. I don't own a press, but the machine shops do. I am a 90 longbed 4.0 with the 3.07 gears in there.

Other options include fuel line leaks and a faulty fuel pump, but most likely the fuel presure regualtor is the ticket.

Rather than start a new thread I thought I would just add on to this one.... I need to replace my cable inside the spare tire winch. It has broken 3 times since it was new and it keeps getting shorter each time I cut the broken end off. Any suggestions?