aerocorey

It had a ZIP code. The truck is in an little town in NY with a funny name that I spell wrong most of the time. I figured a ZIP code would be okay. EDIT: I just visited my tech post about soldering crank sensor leads and found that the mod who deleted my ad posted about it there instead of here. He says I didn't list a location in the title. I don't think tech is an appropriate place for this discussion, but that's where he replied, so that's where I replied. This is my reply copied from that thread. I'm done here, and there, until it's put back. "And since I'm here, I didn't notice that the moderator who deleted my ad had posted a reply here. I don't think this was an appropriate place for his reply. I started a thread in the "Forum Issues" area. I was expecting a reply there if anywhere. My ad had a ZIP code in the title. Few people are aware of Austerlitz, and it's spelled funny, so I used a ZIP code instead of the name of the town so it would be easier to look up. I have worked with many people who grew up within an hour of Austerlitz and had never heard of it. For exapmle, Albany is 41 minutes from Austerlitz. The Albany-Schenectady-Troy metropolitan area has 850,957 residents. I'm sure most of them have never heard of Austerlitz with its 1,453 residents. Austerlitz is a mere 133 miles from New York City with its 19 million residents. I won't get into how many people from Massachusets, Connecticut, and Vermont are close to Austerlitz but have probably never heard of it. Everyone knows their ZIP code, and if someone sees that it's similar to theirs they might look into it. This was a calculated decision to generate the most legitimate responses to my ad. There's an ad in classifieds for a rifle with "Indiana" as a location. Indiana coveres 36,420 square miles. There's a brush guard in AZ (114,006 square miles), a bed in PA (46,058 square miles), and front end suspension in SC (32,007 square miles) in the classifieds now. ZIP code 12017 covers 17 square miles, where as the entire town of Austerlitz covers 49 square miles. I'd call 12017 a specific location, and it was in the title. And the truck is about 1/2 mile from the post office for 12017, so if you look it up on MapQuest the arrow will be covering my truck. Perhaps the mod could have sent me a message saying, "Thank you for placing a specific location in the title. We at ComancheClub prefer that state names rather than ZIP codes are used in ad titles. We realize our vague and simple rules don't state this, but it's what we prefer. You have 24 hours to fix it. Thanks for using ComancheClub." I'd like my ad put back please."

Thanks for the public reply. I appreciate the feedback. I don't have 2 threads about it. The thread in tech is about my crank sensor. I didn't think tech was an appropriate place to discuss this, so I started this thread. There have been 4 post by mods in my tech thread addressing my classified ad being deleted since I started this thread. 2 are from the mod who deleted my ad. He has yet to post in this thread. 1 was from you piping up because Eagle forgot to tell everyone that you are a mod now. Congratulations, by the way. I had the location in the title. I also listed that I am stationed overseas in the ad. And, just to be clear, I am not deployed. I am at a permanant duty station overseas which means it could be as many as 3 years before I get home to fix my truck. I don't want to drum up deployment sympathy to get this fixed, I just want it fixed because it's wrong. The mod who deleted my ad says the reason he didn't notice the other incorrect ads is bacause he's not on here 24 hours a day. This isn't a good explanation since I posted my ad right before bed and it was gone when I woke up. The first ad I linked to as an example had been in place longer than my ad. It has been deleted now. The ad for the rifle has been there since the 16th. Yeah, he's trying to trade it for an MJ, but that's crap. I'm on a bunch of other auto forums too, this is the only one that I can think of that would let an ad for a rifle stay in classifieds. I'm not trying to pick a fight with mods here. I was on the old Yahoo board several years ago when I turned my previous MJ into Frankenjeep. I couldn't have done it without you guys. You helped me sort out my ignition gremlin last winter. I figured this was a good place to look for help getting my truck sorted out so I don't have to sell it. I was soliciting, so I figured classifieds was apropriate. I followed the applicable rules for a want ad (both of them, #1 and #4 :shake: ). I don't think making a thread here is taking anything too far. I'd like my ad put back please.

I posted a want ad in classifieds asking for someone to wrench on my truck for me since I'm out of the area. I read the forum rules before I posted. 1 Name a price for your item, don't just say "best offer" or "this is a feeler". Guess a price if you have to. 2 State where in the world the item is. Bonus points if you put it in the title. 3 When the item sells, put "SOLD!" in the title. 4 Be nice to each other. I wasn't selling an item, I was asking for services directly related to my MJ. This is not prohibited by the rules. In fact I'd like to note that the rules don't address want ads at all even though the classifieds are chock full of want ads. Perhaps they should all be deleted. (1) I did not list a price because it was a wanted ad, not a for sale ad. Nobody else with a want ad lists a price either. (2) I listed the ZIP code in the title. (3) I had every intention of listing "found" in the title if someone answered the ad. (4) It was very nice. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13781 This guy has 1 post on the forum and he directly violated rule #1. He got 2 warnings, 1 from a mod, and his ad is still there. viewtopic.php?f=6&t=13055 This guy broke rule #2 and his ad was fixed for him without his knowledge. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=11181 This guy isn't selling anything. He's providing info for others to buy stuff he doesn't even have yet. viewtopic.php?f=4&t=13510 This guy is selling a rifle for crying out loud. I'd like my ad put back please.

You might remember I was having an intermittant no-start last winter. I replaced everything in the ignition system, and eventually did a home version of the crank sensor patch kit. Running the crank sensor wires through the firewall and splicing them into the back of the ECU did the trick...until recently. The in-laws say she's doing the same trick again. I used some good quality heat shrink butt connectors to do the job. Is it possible that they just aren't up to par and nothing short of the Mopar patch kit will do the trick? Maybe they could be soldered instead? Also, I had a link to a copy of the crank sensor patch kit TSB. I can't find it. It's a real PITA trying to explain to a Jeep parts guy what this kit is without the number from the TSB. Anyone have it?

I did it with a crappy beat up '98 XJ and my previous '89 MJ. There was some fabrication, but it wasn't too bad. When I was done the XJ was just an empty shell with no front doors, hood, fenders, or fascia. The dash and interior were the worts parts of the swap. The dash attaches differently. I swapped over the center console, kickpanels, doors...everything. Lots of cutting and drilling to get everything to fit just right. Same under the hood, you'll have to drill some holes to mount all of the crap you'll be swapping in. Bottom line is if you don't care about the XJ and you think your MJ will be worth what you spent on the XJ when it's done...GO FOR IT!

Check/clean/replace your grounds and battery cables if you haven't already. Most of the gremlins you are experiencing can be explained by bad grounds.

Ooh, good catch. I missed that too. If there's no bottle that's absolutely a recipie for disaster. If you've got steam coming out of your valve cover and oil fliter your head gasket is toast. Your cooling system is boiling over into your oil. Stop running the engine. Drain the oil and see if it looks like chocolate milk. I wouldn't jump at a cracked head or block just yet. Get a head gasket kit and all the stuff mentioned previously and go to work. Run a pressure test and cross your fingers.

You can buy cheap blank sheets of gasket material to cut your own gaskets from. Seriously, though, t-stat gaskets are like $2. :roll: You're willing to spend $1800 on an engine, but not $2 on a gasket? Pressurization is the key to cooling system. You have to figure out where yours lost its pressure. You say when you drive it now boiling coolant runs out of the overflow bottle. Did you top the cooling system off after it overheated? If you did, and it's still bubbling out of the overflow, your radiator cap probably failed and caused this whole mess. I'd try that before a t-stat, or possibly both at the same time since a new radiator cap, a new stat, and a gasket will only be like $25. The trouble is when it overheated and blew out your intake gasket it made more pressure leaks. What's the bolt that came out of the intake go to? If it got hot enough to spit a bolt out and blew out the intake gasket I'd be worried about every gasket in the system (including the head gasket), and possibly the condition of the intake manifold (is the mating surface warped?). I'd take a deep breath, hold off on the new engine, and roll up my sleeves. Pull the intake off, replace the gasket, and put on a new intake if you can't verify the straightness of the current one. Replace the stat and the radiator cap. Replace all of your hoses, and clean the fittings before installing the new hoses. Do a pressure test and see if you're losing pressure anywhere. If it passes a pressure test you're probably good from there, but check your coolant level regularly and be vigiliant about coolant in the oil. It might not be a bad idea to run a compression test. I don't see you spending more than $200 on this. Good luck. When it's back on the road you can spend the $1600 you have left over on a lift kit and then break more stuff!

Also check on the vacuum lines that run over the right wheel well under the hood. I've had an MJ and an XJ with one of the lines in that spot cracked, and seen dozens of others in junkyards with the same line cracked. It'll cause your problem.

http://autorepair.about.com/library/faqs/bl484c.htm This link isn't nearly as good as the one I had before. I can't remember where I got it, but I used to have the actual service bulletin. The idea is that there's too much resistance in the stock wiring between the CPS and ECU. The CPS becomes more resistant as it warms up and the signal becomes too weak. The solution is to drill a hole in the firewall above the gas pedal and run a short patch harness from the CPS through the firewall straight into the back of the ECU. The patch kit is set up so you pass the harness through the firewall, de-pin the 2 sockets on the ECU plug for the CPS wires, then re-pin the ECU plug with the wires in the new harness. To get my truck back on the road I cut the plug off the CPS wire harness, drilled a hole in the firewall, stuck the wires through, and used butt terminals to splice the CPS into the ECU harness 1 inch away from the plug. The wires (IIRC) are white and white with a black tracer. Works like a champ. Before I patched my CPS my truck was leaving me stranded ALL OVER THE PLACE. I replaced the plugs, wires, coil, module, CPS, cam position sensor, fuel filter, etc. After spending hundreds of dollars on parts, it ended up being fixed with 2 butt connectors my father in law had rolling around in his toolbox.

Pull the door trim off and take a peek. Might have to just help the glass up the first inch or so until it catches and then can crank it up. If that's the case youll want to remember not to roll it all the way down again. IIRC I have a window that does the same thing. A new regulator will fix it. These guys might have it. http://www.teamcherokee.com/

Sooo...*cough*...let's talk about lifts again... Years back when I lifted my previous MJ there were really no quality lifts available with a good street ride. Is this still the case? I had a 4" Skyjacker lift in my Grand Wag. It spoiled me, I think, because it fit well, looked good, flexed well, and had great street manners. Is that just because my Grand Wag weighed damn near 3 tons? Right now the MJ is parked at the in-laws. I'm considering lifts, shopping, saving, researching since I have like 3 years to pick my lift. Also disappointed to hear that Rocky Road has such a bad record. They are just an hour south of where I was stationed in UT, and I still have lots of friends who could pick up parts from them for me and mail them to me cheap. I was planning to from them, but now I'm reconsidering. I can deal with bad customer service (it's impossible to avoid these days), but I don't deal well with a poor product.

I did the CPS rewire. The factory recall calls for you to de-pin the CPS wires from the ECU plug, buy a harness from Chrysler, re-pin the ECU plulg with the new harness, run it through the firewall just below where the ECU harness runs througn, and plug the CPS into the new plug at the end of the new harness. This gives the CPS a shorter straight shot into the ECU. I'm on my last day here so I drilled the hole, stuffed the CPS wire through it, cut the 2 wires going into the ECU, and spliced them with some good heat-shrink butt connectors. I've made the drive from my in-laws house into town with the truck about 7 times. I was stuck with a dead truck for 20 minutes in town every time. I just made the trip again after rewiring the CPS...and it started right up in town. I started it up again in the driveway after the trip back too. I'm gonna go try it again in a few minutes, let it warm up, and mess with it some more. Here's my theory on the roll starts...during a roll start the crank turns faster than the starter will turn the crank during a normal start. This faster rotation gives the CPS a better read on the crank, allows for ignition, and lets the truck keep running. Once the roll starts are taken out of the picture as an anomoly it's pretty obvious that this recall could have been the problem all along. Time will tell. In the meantime, my father-in-law is pushing me to keep the truck and says he'll drive it to work some to see what it does while I'm away. I figure I'll keep it after all the work I've done in the last few weeks. Of course, I plan to eventually get the recall harness and do the recall right. The butt connectors are just a place holder.

That's on the list, but I wouldn't get a cheap one. I'm gonna rewire my CPS first. If that doesn't fix it I'll keep trying stuff.

Read the entire CPS recall a minute ago. I'm gonna rewire my CPS more to the letter of that recall before I try anything else.

That's good thinking. Anyone know more about what the ECU does before I start cutting wires to the ECU to see what they do?

Check the fuse, check grounds.

According to Haynes, the module and ECU get 12V from the ignition switch in ON and START from the same wire. There's a plug in diagnostic connector 2 that I can test for 12V there. I'll check it next time. In START the ECU gets another 12V signal from the starter relay. I assume this signal is so the ECU will advance ignition timing for starting. I wonder if it's a bad ECU ground. Anyone know where I should look for that? The succesful roll starts make that unlikely too... There's something called the "B+ latch relay". I don't know what that does. Anyone know? There's also an O2 sensor relay, and we all know about the fuel pump relay. I bought a new relay and switched it out for each of those 3 relays when it didn't start at NAPA earlier today. No difference.

x2 I'm really up against it here. I don't want to discourage anyone from making suggestions because I obviously can't figure it out for myself, but I'm a pretty handy guy. I'm admittadly behind the learning curve with this particular model truck, but I make my living using diagrams and fault trees to diagnose/repair fighter jets. If it was something simple I would have nailed it by now. I have 1 full day left in the area before I leave the truck at my in-laws and move away. They're good folks. I don't want to leave them a tempermental truck to babysit. Dirty flywheel notches? Dirty sensor? Sticking relay inside the ECU? Bad ground? Ignition switch?

There is no NSS or clutch safety switch on a 5 speed MJ. If there was a switch on a 5 speed MJ it wouldn't be the problem because the engine cranks when I turn the key. If it was a bad NSS or clutch safety switch it wouldn't even do that. Does anyone know enough about the ECU to give me an idea if that could be the problem? It roll starts fine when it won't start itself, and it cranks everytime...that's what really gets me confused.

New CPS tests good. Old CPS tested good too. ECU is my next guess, but that's all it is...a guess. Anyone near Austerlitz, NY with an ECU I can get today? I'm at the in-laws right now. I'm running out of time with this truck. It's in the classified section right now...

Fuel pump is priming. Fuel pressure is good. Spark tester says it's not starting because it's not making spark. This thing is SCREAMING crank sensor, but I've replaced it. Could it be dirty notches in the flywheel? I've found references about ohming the CPS out with the truck off to test it, but is there a way to test it with the truck running? If I throw a multimeter on it during cranking with it connected should I see voltage? Does the Renix system continue reading the CPS once the truck is running? The guy at NAPA said all it does is look for 2 flashes fron the CPS during cranking and compares it to the cam position sensor. He says once it has the relationship between the CPS and cam sensor locked in it ignores the CPS and uses the can sensor for everything. I'm reluctant to rely on heresay fron the NAPA guy.

The engine is turning over everytime I turn the key, and the truck starts fine once I let it sit. Why whould I need to crank it in gear and beat on the starter like that? The problem it's been suggested my starter could have is drawing too many amps while starting. This could leave too few amps for the coil to make spark with. This is an entertaining theory, but the starter isn't killing the battery so I don't think it's the problem. Yes, it pop starts.

I'm still having the no-start. Fuel pump is priming as it should. I've replaced the CPS and wired it directly to the engine harness with butt connectors. I've replaced the module, coil, wires, cap, rotor, plugs, battery cables, cam position sensor (stator, pick-up, whatever you want to call it), and cleaned every connection I can get to. It'll go days without a problem, then all of the sudden it won't start. Spark tester says I have no spark from the coil. It never dies once started. It cranks every time, just no fire. I have roll started it down a hill several times when it wouldn't start by itself. I've replaced the 3 relays next to the starter relay. I've cleaned the contacts on the starter relay. I've had the battery tested, it's good. Alternator is charging. Anytime it doesn't start I can walk away from it for 15-20 minutes and it'll start fine. Occasionally if I sit there and crank it for eternity it'll light off, but I don't like doing that. Only parts left are the battery, computer, starter relay, and starter. Battery doesn't make sense because it's been tested good. It's got plenty of water in it too, no leaks. When it won't start it'll crank, and crank, and crank...battery has taken the punishment of cranking for weeks and hasn't failed me yet. Computer is possible I suppose, but I'm told they don't die. Starter relay doesn't make sense because it cranks like it should. Starter could be drawing too many amps, but it isn't killing the battery. I threw a booster battery on it and tried it a few minutes ago at NAPA when it wouldn't start. It cranked for 10 sec without starting. I let go of the key, counted to 10, and tried again. It started after 7 seconds, but it had been about 20 minutes since I shut it off last so it could have been a coincidence. 10 minutes after that I shut it off at the grocery store. When I came out after shopping it started exactly as described at NAPA, but without the booster battery. I need suggestions.

Head gasket...it seals the head to the block. If that's where you're leaking, that's what's supposed to be sealing it. Make extra sure it isn't your valve cover. Yes, you replaced the gasket, but if the cover is warped or dinged it could still leak.