aerocorey

I missed the low pressure at the rail. You're right, that's different. As for mine...it was the CPS signal, not a starter or a cable or a relay. Roll start worked.

:huh???: Are you serious? http://burlington.craigslist.org/cto/1474698883.html I can get a complete Cherokee for $300. You can get a transmission at some junkyards for less than $200. I want to say most junkyards, but I haven't been to most of the junkyards in the USA, so I'll just say some. I agree 100%. I DDd my Peugeot for awhile, then I had an AX-15 on hand, so I swapped. Remember, though, OP said that the transmission went out at 80k, that's why it's parked. OP, don't spend a dime on your transmission. Go AX-15. Consider it an investment.

I disagree. The ECU controlls spark and fuel. It times the firing of each plug and each injector using crank and cam position sensors. Why would it fire any of the injectors if it doesn't know when to fire? I think whatever is killing your spark is killing your injection as well. A bad coil pack or a bad module or any of the other spark specific components aren't going to kill both spark and fuel. Google "renix fuel injection" and you'll find a link to a FSM that lists the crank and cam position sensors as input sensors for injection, and those will kill spark too... I realize it doesn't make sense sense to you, and I said I wouldn't bring it up again, but did you try a roll start yet? It's cheaper than throwing another crank sensor at it, and if it works OR doesn't work it will tell you something either way. If you've got your heart set on replacing a part, I like the cam position sensor before another crank sensor. Cam sensor is easier to replace and you haven't changed it yet.

I sold a BA-10 to a guy for $200 when I lived in Utah. All he needed was one little ring that sits on top of the shifter housing. You can swap to an AX-15 for not much more than $200. BA-10 is fine for a DD until it breaks. Once it does, don't spend a dime on it.

Aaahhh, I didn't catch that you ohmmed it from the ECM. I'm probably wasting your time if that's the case, but it may still be interesting to try the roll. Good luck with the no start!

No, I was not. The TSB I'm referring to has to do with the CPS wiring. Your CPS may ohm good, but these trucks have too much resistance in the wiring between the ECM plug and the CPS plug. Replacing just the CPS does nothing for this defect. I'm not sure why roll starting worked for me, but I SUSPECT the reason it worked is because during a roll start my crank was turning faster than during a regular start. Perhaps this faster crank rotation provided a readable signal for the ECU to work with to get the truck breathing on its own. In any case, it wouldn't start with the starter, no fuel, no spark, but it would roll start every time. I had a dealer perform this TSB, and now my mother is DDing the MJ while I'm overseas with no issues. I won't push the issue any further if you think it's a waste of your time, but a roll start is free. Give it a shot... EDIT: Here's a link to the TSB. http://wagoneers.com/XJ/tech/WIRING/CrankPositionSensor/CPS-87-90-update.pdf I did a home-brewed version of this that made the truck behave for a few weeks before it fell victim to the cheap crappy connectors I used. I just drilled a hole in the firewall, cut the CPS wires, cut the ECM wires, and spliced them together.

I haven't been following your no start thread, but I've been where you are. Have you tried pull or roll starting it? If you haven't, try it. Mine wouldn't fire itself off from the starter, and the starter was fine, but it would roll start everytime. There's a TSB that fixed my truck. I suggest you give it a shot, and see if I can find the TSB and post it up if you roll start okay...

Are you on IFSJA? You'll eventually get an answer here, but if you've got a J20 you will want to be on www.ifsja.org/forums for sure. Why do you want to downgrade your axles? I'm sure someone over on IFSJA would swap axles with you. Hell, I'd buy another FSJ and swap axles with you if I had a few bucks.

Ummm, not to get in the middle here, but Renix isn't OBD-anything. I don't know much about OBD-I or OBD-II, but Renix is neither, doesn't store codes, and doesn't have a CEL/MIL.

I did some years ago with an MJ I don't have anymore. IIRC I used the stock length cable. I looped it to take the slack out. I don't remember where the loop was (I think maybe on the cab floor under the carpet), but as long as you keep the bend radius of the loop as large as you can the cable won't bind. Maybe not the best permamant solution, and I'm sure there will be nay-sayers, but it worked fine for me.

I think it'll be sweet. I don't havee those fab skills, so I'll go a different route. I've seen this before. It looks good. Take a roof rack from an XJ, cut it down so the side rails are only just long enough to hold one bow (just a few inches), and put the end caps on both sides. Clip in a bow, attach lights. Done.

As long as you towed it with your Manche it qualifies. :cheers: And I'm assuming the 44 is either in your trailer or in the bed of that truck since the cab is up in the air.

Right with you here. I want a big nasty truck, but that's probably 7 years or so out. Eventually the MJ will get towed around with the Yota. Until that day she'll earn her keep.

Here lies the trouble. I can't have everything, and I want my Manche. I move alot, so I can't have more vehicles than I can drive and tow myself. If I got a full sized V8 it would be my DD, and I don't need to DD a full sized V8 (unless it's another Grand Wag!) I towed a 17' Bayliner around town with a busted tired SWB '88 when I lived in Utah. I was pretty impressed. I'm hopeful that a tuned up LWB will be up to this challenge. I think if it starts to look line the the MJ isn't up to the challenge I'll trade the Yota for something lighter before I trade the MJ for something heavier. Keep the comments coming. It's about what I expected...upgrade the brakes, use good trailer controls, tranny cooler, etc. Pete, that's a good tip about the KJ brakes. I didn't know they were possible donors, I'll look into that. As for electric vs. surge brakes, why don't you sell me on what you think is best? I'm here to learn... Has everyone seen the pic of the 5th wheel MJ with a camper on it? I figure if that guy can haul a 5th wheel camper...

I've got a '90 LWB MJ and a '94 Xtra cab LWB Toyota Pickup. One of them is gonna become my off-road toy, and the other will be my DD/tow rig for the off road toy. The Yota is already lifted with 33s, and the MJ is at stock ride height. The MJ makes more HP and torque, the 4.0L is more reliable than the Yota 3.0L, it does better on fuel, and the MJ has a 500lb heavier curb weight. I've been reading up, and it looks like if I swap in an automatic, a D44, and some Big-Ton springs the MJ will be rated to tow 5000lbs. I think with a trailer with brakes, a hitch with load and sway control, and some defensive driving I should be able to safely pull the Yota with my MJ. So, my question is...what have you towed with your MJ?

I've seen that before..trying to think where... :wall: Maybe part of the 4x4 shift lever assembly. I'm gonna have to go through some old pics.

AMC made it bright yellow so it was easier to find and smash in anger when the cruise quits working.

Take a good hard look at the striker. I think it's a different style. I don't remember specifically how, but I do recall when I did a late model XJ door swap on an MJ I had to make at least one new hole.

Few years back I converted my '89 to an AX-15. Sold the Peugeot to a guy for $150. All he needed was some ring that goes around the base of the shift knob or something small and trivial like that. It was probably a $10 part when it was available. Don't swap in a questionably reliable (yes, there are a few out there who have had good fortune with the Peugeot, but it's still a turd) transmission only to find yourself paying through the nose for parts or swapping in an AX-15 down the road. Even without the reliability question, the parts availability issue alone should keep you from wanting to use a BA/10. Do it once, do it right.

???

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2849 Listen up, tough guy, I did ask why my ad was deleted. I started a whole thread to find out why my ad was deleted. We're in it now, genius. You didn't reply to it until now. You replied in my tech thread which, in my opinion, was an inappropriate place to comment. That's why I started this thread in the first place, to keep my tech thread about tech. You also sent me a PM with no explanation other than "incorrect format". Furthermore, nobody asked you to delete threads with ZIP codes in the title in place of state abbreviation codes. That's not in the rules anywhere. I read them before I posted. The rules say "State where in the world the item is. Bonus points if you put it in the title." That doesn't mean I have to list the state, it means I have to state the location..as in to declare definitely or specifically, to set forth formally in speech or writing, to set forth in proper or definite form, to say, to fix or settle, as by authority. The federal government and the USPS seems to think ZIP codes are quite specific, I think they should suit your needs. What if I was in Canada or Mexico or Italy where they don't use states? Are you implying that people outside the US don't live in specific locations? It's either that or you don't know how to read a complete sentence with the word "state" in it. Also, the rule doesn't say the location has to be in the title. It says I get bonus points for putting it in the title, which I would like to redeem now please. If you want to make up additional rules you need to check with the real mods first and then add them to the rules page. You should do it by asking Pete (nicely, in accordance with rule #4) to add your new rule to the numbered rules listed in the first post of the rules thread, not by adding a post at the bottom and hoping people will notice you added a rule. I followed the rule you added, by the way. If anyone wants to see how the ad was originally titled and formatted it has been reposted in classifieds. See for yourself. You also need to check your attitude. JeepcoMJ never said you needed to change anything in this section (he never said you needed to change anything). He was talking to shelbyluvv, and he said mods should BROWSE each section of the forum. You found my tech thread and decided to post in it. You found this. You aren't the mod in tech of here, but you sure managed to post messages. Wierd. If you were told to spend less time fixing titles and more time deleting bad threads perhaps you should use that extra time to make better decisions about which threads are bad, and maybe you could learn to type a coherent sentence. Given or not, you owe me an apology. No doubt. Good day, sir.

Wow. I hope mine loks like that one day. It's the same color with similar decals. I'm seriously inspired to try and get mine cleaned up like that. :clapping:

Thanks!

I keep stating it because it's what I'd like, and I'm trying to be courteous about this despite how irritated I am. I figured as soon as I saw it was gone that it was gone for good, but I wasn't sure how this board was set up so it seemed worth asking. Since it never should have been deleted, and I'd like it put back, and it can't be put back, perhaps an apology is in order from the mod who deleted it. I didn't think that would be too much to expect, but since I've had to ask for it it wouldn't mean squat. I'll repost the ad. How about you PM him and you 2 work it out back channel? Why would I do that? I came here to ask the big question about my ad being deleted (see thread title). He sent me a PM and posted about it in the other thread you cleaned up. There was no apology anywhere, just some BS. I have nothing else to say about it.

This is a copy of that crank sensor TSB. http://www.wagoneers.com/XJ/tech/4.0L-C ... update.pdf Are the wires on the crank sensor thicker than the wires on the plug for the ECU? If not, I already replaced the crank sensor and spliced the wires into the ECU. All I would need to do is replace the crimp splices with a little solder and it would be good. If the wires are thicker I suppose I could buy some pins like what what are in the ECU connector and fix it up that way. Come to think of it...that might be the way to go rather than soldering. Anyone know where I can get pins like that?