aerocorey

I was under the impression that the HO engines didn't have an EGR. EGR uses alot of vacuum lines. Looking under the hood of my old '88 MJ parked next to a '92 XJ revealed that it was a little more cluttered under my hood than the '92, but nothing out of control. If you think a Renix MJ is bad you should try replaching all the rubber hoses on a carbureted '83 Wagoneer with a smog pump and a vacuum axle disconnect. X2 on getting a bunch of rubber hose of the appropriate size and replacing them 1 by 1. Not that hard to do, and it'll familiarize you with it a little better. If you're going to HO you'll have less than you have now because of the EGR being gone. The ECU will go where your EGR solenoid is now. If you want to eliminate even more vacuum stuff you can remove all the lines going to and from the transfer case and the CAD. You'd need to either shim your CAD so it's always engaged or install a later XJ one piece axle shaft.

If you come up what that thread please post it up. I'll search too. I would REALLY like to avoid replacing my heater core if I can. I flushed mine but I know it's still not flowing like it should.

Also wouldn't be too worried about the vac can. If your vent doors are working properly then the can is hooked up and working fine. I find that my defroster is just a TINY bit warmer than my floor vents too. I attributed that to heat rising.

The timer doesn't know you replaced the O2 sensor. Unplug the timer. Works on the older ones. Not sure about the HO, but try it. Shouldn't that timer go off around 80,000 miles or something? Does a HO even have the timer? Might be barking up the wrong tree. Did you get it downloaded or did you just throw an O2 sensor at it because a light came on?

If it's making heat in defrost and vent, but not in floor, then the heater core isn't the problem. The heater core doesn't care what level you select the heat to come out through, it just cares where you put the temperature lever. I don't know why it would blow heat everywhere but at the floor. I'd dig under the dash and see if something isn't assembled tightly.

T-stat won't affect the heater much. There's a bypass in the t-stat housing around the t-stat where the heater core takes its heat from. The idea is that coolant won't go to the radiator until the engine is up to temp but you won't have to wait for the t-stat to open to get heat in the cab while the truck warms up. I'm having a similar problem, but I don't know what temp I'm running at because I have idiot lights instead of gauges. I did a few good coolant flushes and my heat has gone from completely inoperative to sucking pretty bad. I need a new heater core. I'm gonna try bleeding the system a little more before I replace the core. Anyhow...my thoughts are that if your heater core is clogged it could stand to reason that other parts of your cooling system could also be clogged. Perhaps poor flow is causing problems.

Try a coolant flush.

http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/ax15.html http://www.jeeptech.com/trans/ba10.html What year is your MJ? Most of the BA 10s have the 21 spline output. All AX-15s are 23 spline outputs. Depending on what you've got your transfer case input might not be interested in accepting a 23 spline output. You can replace the input if yours is a 21 spline. You can also grab an AX-15 with a transfer case still attached if you don't care to check or swap transfer case inputs. A quick search at www.napaonline.com shows different clutches too. EDIT: Just noticed your screen name. If yours is an 88 I'm reasonably certain it's going to be a 21 spline. If I'm wrong someone will correct me. I'm also assuming yours is a 4x4. Not sure if there's a driveshaft length difference in the 2WD BA 10 vs. 2WD AX-15. I don't think there is.

Ya, that's my plan too. Silver88, thanks for the offer. I'm sort of between addresses right now so I'll have to take a rain check.

http://www.rocky-road.com/comanche.html Not sure if they're just acting as a vendor for someone else or if this is their kit. They carry rock rails and other stuff too.

I messed around on NAPA some more. It's the right part. Now all I gotta do is find one in stock somewhere...

LOL... Yeah, I'm sure I didn't find it when I looked. I'm also sure that I SUCK at looking up parts online. I'm gonna go hang my head in shame now. Thanks for the link.

Hmmm...I looked on the NAPA website and didn't find it. Thanks for the tip. I'll go in and ask them tomorrow.

Broke mine today. Looking for a source for a replacement.

Can you loosen the nut and the elbow doesn't rotate? If you can, I'll bet you $20 that if you unscrew the nut all the way the elbow will pull straight out of the radiator and you'll be able to reuse it on the new one.

It should have a threaded fitting that you can unscrew from the radiator. If you have the new radiator on hand you can look where the hose goes in and see if there's a threaded port for it. If you do end up haing to cut the hose you can have a new one made at alot of small parts stores. Some of them will have signs in the window saying "WE MAKE HOSES". The crimp on that metal collar around the hose is done with a hydraulic hose crimping machine.

Figured it was something like that. I'd still like it if someone can point me to an exploded parts view.

My manual crank window in the driver's door isn't working right. Anyone have an exploded parts breakdown I can look at? It cranks fine up and down except for the bottom 3 inches. Trying to go up or down in the bottom 3 inches just makes the crank handle make loud popping noises.

I wasn't sure. My MAP sensor line was pretty fragile so I replaced the rubber plug and hard plastic line with a rubber hose. The hose I used had just the right outer diameter so I just spit on it (very complicated professional technique) and pushed it in the hole. I gave it a little tug to be sure it isn't coming out, but then I was left with that little double plug thingie. The plug for the top hole has an orifice in it and I thought it might be required, so I cut the double plug in half and stuck the top half back in (no spit required). If it's just for alignment I'll take it back out.

Mmm..can't right now. Camera is packed up. On my '90 there's a hole in the side of the throttle body about half an inch above the port where the MAP sensor vacuum line plugs in. It's the same size as the MAP sensor port but I can't tell that it goes anywhere.

No I haven't been to that site. Thanks for it.

I don't think they look too bad, but I don't know that I'd pay that much for one either. I don't make 'em or sell 'em, I just had the link handy.

Correct on the NSS. I might have struck gold tonight. Everyone says CPS, CPS, CPS. I keep unplugging it, cleaning the connector, inspecting the wiring, unplugging it, cleaning the connector... Tonight it did it again, but it had been several hours since I turned it off. I had my wife crank it while I jiggled (technical term) various electrical thingies (another technical term) under the hood. When I shook the CPS harness it started! I'm going to cut out the plug for the CPS and wire it directly with butt connectors and see if the problem goes away. I'll be stoked if this fixes it because I never stopped messing with the CPS harness even though I was confident that it wasn't the problem. Maybe a little persistance will win the day here...

Anyone?

http://www.tomken.com/catalog.php?searc ... 6cat%3Dall