mvusse

So why do you feel it sucks on the highway?

I have been resisting the temptation to post in this topic, but can't any more. For me it is not the size of the rims on the truck in the first post, as it is the design of the rims. They just plain look like some of the fugliest rims I have seen in my life. All 37 years of it.

Just filled up for $1.68. Almost a tank of gas for <$17 I hope it lasts through January, as I have 2 long trips to Canada before then. Each trip will be about 1000 miles, which covers about 1/4 of my total driving for a year. A few years ago gas did the same thing, although not to this extent. I can't remember around what date it bottomed out, though.

DOT 5 compresses more than DOT 4 which is not a good thing. I also does not lubricate like glycol based fluids (like DOT 3/4), which is why it can't be used in ABS systems, as the valving needs to be lubricated. DOT 5 also aerates easily (forms bubbles and becomes foamy), which is a REALLY bad thing. The only 2 goof things are the higher boiling point, which should not really make a difference unless drive a race car, and it doesn't dissolve plastic.

DOT 5 fluid is silicone based and not compatible with any system not meant for DOT 5. Use DOT 3 or DOT 4. Yeas, DOT 5 should not dissolve plastic, but it might cause other issues since the system was not designed to run with it. It's like trying to use transmission fluid in your brake lines.

I got a new wind shield! No more cracks in front of driver and passenger and bottom of glass No more 100+ stone chips No more headlight glare from 21 years and 136,000 miles of scratches on the surface But no pics either as I've been working dark to dark lately. :clapping: :cheers:

We're still stuck at $1.69. Two days now without a single drop in price. And a little while ago it dropped 4 times in like 30 minutes...

Even here in Ohio, NOT in the lake effect snow belt we had a few inches last week, some of which was still around this morning. But with a low of 11 degrees Saturday morning and 7 degrees Sunday morning stuff doesn't melt easily. Had rain today, but they're forecasting 1-3" tomorrow and another 2-4" tomorrow night. And heading to the "Great White North" for 4 day T-day weekend into the dead smack middle of the Lake Huron snow belt. Parents had 26" in the back yard as of yesterday 5pm. Not driving the Jeep, though. 2 seats and 3 people dictates Suburban. BUT I'm heading there again solo (thus Jeep) for Xmas and New year's. Most likely get to play in real snow then.

Our truck are supposed to run with 195 degree thermostat. Why change to 180? Best case scenario you get less heat in the cabin in winter. More likely scenario you might lose gas mileage due to lower heat efficiency.

Almost? I though any Comanche moving under it's own power could out-do the 3800 for now... :D

Ummm, 2,788 RPM maybe?

Let's take the high-jack 1 post further: Chico, if your stock tire size is the same as mine (which I assume), and you're getting 13mpg from your odometer without compensating for the larger tires (assuming also you have not changed the speedo gear), you're actually getting 15mpg with 31s. My buddy's 90 XJ with 31s gets 15 around town, so that sounds about right. (I drive like a grandma, which might account for the additional 2 in my case).

Chico, you must have other issues as well. Even with 4.5" of lift catching more air on the highway I still get 17 around town, 24 going 65 down the freeway. It does drop rapidly above 65, though. About 22 at 70, 19 at 75. And that's with a Renix 4.0/AW4, just like yours. I got 13-15 when I first got the truck, but it was running on 5 cylinders with a broke spark plug wire.

$1.69

To setup the gears yourself you will need some specialty tools, like an inch-pound (not foot pound) torque wrench to measure bearing preload, a dial indicater and various mounts to measure backlash and a spreader for a D35 to physically stretch the housing lengthways to remover/insert the ring gear assembly. You may be able to make your own out of structural steel scraps like square tubing or angle iron. The only way to get the gears set up right is to insert, check measurements, take out, add/remove shims, repeat. Since the pinion bearings are pressed on, it might help to take an old set and clearance them with a die grinder so they just slide on/off. Once you have the correct set up you press the new ones on. For that it may help to "bake" the bearings on an electric skillet and keep the pinion shaft in the freezer for a few hours. Get a bunch of crush sleeves for the pinion since they can only be used once, and each try is a use, and at least one tube of gear marking paint to double check the pattern when you think you have it right. I have done it under a vehicle before and do not recommend it. Put the axle on a work bench. It's not rocket science, but it is very time consuming and a royal PIA. That's why most people pay a shop to do it, and why shops charge as much as they do. I have done it three times. Will I ever do it again? Probably. Will I be cursing myself and promising (again) to pay someone next time? Definitely. And never EVER get used gears unless you swap the entire axle. A new gear set can be had for ~$150

40°? That's T-shirt and shorts weather 8) . Hit 16 degrees last Wednesday morning, 17 this morning and supposed to be 15 tomorrow morning. I'm glad natural gas prices have gone down as well.

$1.71 I'm starting to regret filling up the Suburban for $2.83 thinking I got a good deal a month ago.

Hmmm, I had not actually looked at the home page as my bookmark goes straight to the forums. As such I did not realize the buttons were shockwave flash objects. My apologies. :cheers:

Load range D is 8 ply equivalent, load range E is 10 ply equivalent. There's also a B (4 ply ) and F (12 ply), but they are harder to find.

$1.75

Dreamweaver? What you don't know how to use a text editor for something as simple as that?

I have seen an 1157 put in 180 degrees off, and have done it myself also. Plastic sockets are quite flexible when it's 90 degrees outside. After replacing a bad socket with one listed for a Ford from Advance, I connected black to black, brown to brown and blue to blue. Turns out Ford and AMC use opposite color coding, so for a week or so I had the bulb in rotated 180 degrees purposely, until I cut the wires and hooked them up brown to blue and blue to brown.

That's not the headlight relay, it's the fog light relay.

So you got 6 ply LT rated tires for the lower price of the 4 ply P rated tires. Good deal!

I'll try to remember to see what my setup looks like tomorrow afternoon, but it might be hard to tell with the skid plate in the way. I do know for a fact that my (factory) power steering does not include a zip tie on the lower radiator hose, although there are a number of zip ties on various other engine parts (that are factory :nuts: ).