KillerCOM

Nice find man. Never searched into it but 11 g's for pretty much a stock diesel 2a = AWESOME!!!!

Did you guys know that after the war, Mitsubishi aslo made a "jeep". Using the same stamping as the Willys' did with the exception or the replacement of the Willys' logo and name with that of Mitsubishi's. I can't remember about the drivetrain that was available. I read the article a few year ago. :USAflag:

Straight from the FSM: "Since fuel pressure at the injector is kept constant, the volume of fuel injected is dependent only on the length of time that the injector is energized. The injection time duration is based on engine operating conditions, which are provided to the ECU by the input sensors." You need to check your MAP, CPS, CTS, MAT, and TPS. Since the problem you are having is engine speed related I would check the CPS first and then your injector/fuel pressure regulator. Its definitely not your O2, because all it does is adjust the fuel trim depending on your current A/F ratio. To check the fuel pressure, the FSM says 17.3 psi, which is to be set at 2000 rpm's. There is an 1/8" NPT allen head plug, both directly above the fuel line or 90 degrees from the line (Towards the driver fender. Recommend taking off the hat and the plate the hat clamps to so ease this process). I recommend buying a small liquid filled gauge to just leave in there.

its supposed to have 15 psi, and if you need another injector look at Venom Performance i picked one up from them its a remanufactured unit but it works great. it was 85 bucks when i bought mine. http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=9690

The only way that will work is if you change the knuckles, and all of the hardware, rotors, calipers, lines, pads.

sorry to say but you guys are forgetting the final drive ratio. using this trans would let him use a lower gear say 4.10:1 on the street. i say go for it if you want. would be a BA setup behind a 2.4 turbo from a SRT-4.

:agree: you're correct all NP 231J's are mechanically the same. towing procedures are the same between vehicles with that tcase.

definitely messed something up on the main-shaft. you're supposed to the leave the DS in when flat towing, put the transmission in gear, and the t-case in neutral.

your talking about a voltage drop test. put your DMM on the DC volt setting and put the positive lead on the starter post. then the negative on the negative post on the bat. if you don't have any voltage the fusible link in the starter lead has been fried the easies way to check if it's been fried it grab it and see if it stretches.

how can a guy get hooked up with one of these? :huh???:

$2.09 today

I go to the University of Northwestern Ohio and I've had engine machining before and go do personal work in the school's machine shop. It sounds like a bad valve seal. If you take the manifold off and there's a bunch of oil on the valve that's what it is, or take of the valve cover and look at the one you suspect is leaking.

if its coming out of the port it could be a bad or improperly installed valve seal or guide. if its on top of the mani it sound like a valve cover. i'll be driving through rochester hopefully a couple times on my way to syracuse this winter. :cheers: the cork gaskets are too old school to be reliable in my eyes

2.25 here in lima more money for beer

is the oil coming out of the exhaust port?

did you have any valve work done with the rebuild?

to adjust the fuel pressure on the 2.5 TBI you must remove it from the intake. that's just four 13mm nuts at the base and 10mm bolt in the side that hold it to the manifold. you'll see a cylindrical object with a "nipple" off to one side. take a drill bit and drill the inner part of the nipple out. its extremely soft. and there should be a Torx style fastner (T-30 if i remember). :cheers:

None of you sensors will do that. Is this a TBI or multiport 2.5? Do you have a throttle return spring? If its TBI it should have a set of springs that go from the throttle shaft and the bracket mounted to the TB. Thats what it sounds like if your cable isn't sticking. :cheers:

i got mine off e-bay for like 40 bucks, sandblasted it, cleared it, and bolted it down with 1/4-20 stainless

sorry to say guys at junkyards or parts stores don't know everything. i happen to have an aluminum one on my 2.5 powered manche. i have had three comanches powered by the 2.5 and have been working on these thing for the last 9 years. if you look you can find it

if you keep your 2.5 ditch the crappy plastic valve cover and find an aluminum or stamped steel one from a wrangler. the aluminum ones are from the YJ's and the steel are from the TJ's.

i'm looking into boring out stock Renix throttle bodies, once i buy my lathe that is....i can do HO no problem. the Renix is gonna be trickier if it can be done.

it controls your timing so yea maybe. check you fuel mileage after you fix it.

it costs money to go fast. pure and simple....

nope, but this setup is most likely to go in my other 89 manche project....