ROADLESS

Are u going with the dual purpose (deep cycle and starting) Yellow Top ?

Good prices! I wonder how reputable they are, anyone here deal with this outfit :hmm: ?

X 3 :thumbsup:

That would certainly add some character to your MJ 8) and you won't need to buy fenders and other parts like you would need to do if you were going with the late model XJ front end (to my knowledge). One thing to keep in mind tho is that the smaller lights may not be as bright as the regular ones.

Pat Nice find, how do you like the HO 4.0? I guess it might be hard to tell tho depending on the gear ratio/tire size :hmm: !

And then post pics :popcorn: !

Having looked at the puller in your link, i don't see how it would work any better to avoid hub separation. The manufacturer of that puller even cautions you about bearing separation during use ! I do agree that it is probably safer to use though as it utilizes fewer parts and looks pretty strong :bowdown: . Dan

Appreciate the concern. And yes it may not be the best way, however, if you prep the hub properly it works well. Part of the prep involved using liberal amounts of PB Blaster (this is amazing stuff). Also, prior to pulling the hubs i left about 1/4 inch of 'slack' on the three 13mm bolts (wrench size) behind the knuckle. I then placed a 13mm socket on the bolts and gave them all good blows with the hammer. Just enough to 'crack the rust seal' from the hub/knuckle union. I then screwed the 36mm nut back on the axle end and gave it a couple of good raps with a two lb. hammer to loosen the hub from the axle (i credit Go-Jeep for this http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoHubReplacement.htm ) :bowdown: Following this i used the three jaw puller to take the hub off the rest of the way. I can see how dangerous this could be if you jumped right in with no prep work :nuts: especially when using China built tools. However, if properly prepped, you shouldn't have a problem (at least i didn't). I would also like to add that if you use this type of puller and it binds up on you, then more prep work needs to be done or repeated! Thanks for the comments guys!

I would be interested in a couple of the 12" long cutouts. It would probably stick one of them on rear window, lower left, if that works!

The hardest part is getting the pulley off the pump. To save a little coin, after you remove the pump take it to the parts store and borrow their P.S. puller and remove the pulley right there. Your new or rebuilt pump should come with an install tool (basically a threaded bolt and nut) that you can use to put the pulley back on. The pulley is alot harder to take off, but real easy to put back on. Also, make sure and replace the o-ring on the high pressure side, it should also come with the pump. Good Luck :popcorn: !

Here is what i used, a HF special for under $15 . I should also add that my hubs came off without to much difficulty. The puller along with a few soakings with PB blaster worked well. That and years of our S. California like climate (yes in idaho) also helped :banana: ! Oh, sorry for the glare!

I used plenty of PB blaster and 1/2" drive socket with breaker bar.

Theres still some good ideas in there tho that you can put your own spin to :popcorn:

No disrespect but instead of dielectric grease, i highly recommend using OX-GARD on electrical fittings, particularly where contact is made :brows: It improves conductivity whereas dielectric actually insulates connections and can hinder conductivity. I found this out by trial and error(s) by applying dielectric compound to my TPS connection and finding out that it did not help. As soon as i cleaned the dielectric out of the connection and applied Ox-Gard, my TPS performed normally!

Thanks, that certainly makes sense. BTW, its a non-disco axle :yes: Dan

First off, this is from my son's 88 XJ, but thought it would be of interest as it is the same axle as our MJ's :smart: Finally got around to change out the hubs as they have been needing replaced for a while. After removing the hubs, i figured i might as well change the axle u-joints too. Upon removing the axles however, i noticed gear oil leaking from the shaft :eek: and was pretty sure i damaged the axle seal (driver side) when i pulled the axle! You can see some of the drippage here: I then removed the differential cover along with the carrier: And to my surprise the axle seals appear to be in pretty good shape as seen here: About 3 or 4 oz's of gear oil leaked out and remains a mystery. So it looks like i can continue on with new u-joints while i wait for the new hubs to get here (bought a pair of hubs on eBay for $163 shipping included!). Also, i am not sure what to think about this, but i was expecting a shim or two to fall out when i removed the carrier but there were none :dunno: ! Comments/constructive criticism are welcome. P.S. This probably needs moved to projects section.

Just got mine too. Its about time someone (Eric Zappe) came out with a builders guide specific to XJ/MJ's (and no wranglers - yea :banana: )! A must have for those running stock rigs and wanting to modify! Good reading for modified too. :cheers:

If your sure there are no vacuum leaks then you might try readjusting your TPS. This is how i fixed a similar problem on my MJ :idea:

Definately has potential, man those door seals appear to be in great shape. Pleeease tell us you're gonna ditch the overhead cab lights too :brows: !

How about that gauge pod thingy that goes along the A-pillar :smart: . The ones that hold up to three gauges. I think that would be kewl :nuts: !

CWLONGSHOT, Nice pics/comparison. How much lift are you running up front? Looks like its at least 4.5" :dunno:

I was referring to anything larger than 31x10.50x15's. Also in cases where the tires run true to size 31's can rub too.

How are you planning on shortening it so it will fit (ours is way to looong on our XJ) or is there a shorter one out there? Oh, i almost forgot about a link. Don't know if its the one your after: http://www.underground-ink.biz/Jeep_che ... eep_01.htm

I would go with at least 4" of B.S. A factory rim from my 89 MJ has 5.5" This will allow the tire to travel up into the wheel well, where as a tire with less than 4" B.S. will probably rub on the fender lip when flexed! :eek:

I agree!