chopper35nj

Any thoughts on my issue with it pulling right then? It would seem that it would pull left (maybe, just a little) because of the difference in length. Do you think I should go with a little more toe in? 1/8" maybe?

I have just gone through the front end on my truck, added a 2" spacer, and everything is in good shape. I reset my toe (1/16" in at the front) and added 3/32" caster shim each side. It returns to center fine and does not wander, but it does pull to the right a bit, won't track straight down the road. I have also noticed that it requires a bit more input from the steering wheel to turn left than right. I took some measurements and found that the wheel base is 3/8" longer on the right side than the left, is that a factory thing to compensate for crowned roads? My truck is straight and the chassis is square. I have an appointment to get new tires and don't want to scrubb off a brand new set of treads. Thoughts??

Both a buddy and I went round and round with rear springs and here is what we found the best solution to be....(I wish I had done this) He bought a set of F150 springs from the JY and we re drilled the shackle pocket 1 inch back and opened up the holes in the front pocket to fit the Ford bolt (much larger, and, defiantly get that bolt with the springs at the JY, they are expensive and hard to find $64 ea from Ford) we just used a step bit, super easy. Used 3/8 Allen heads to replace and flip the pins (the Allen heads fit better than stock pins, no grinding necessary) Bolted in like stock. Gave 3 inch lift and rides better that it ever has. Next time on mine I'll be doing this, Ford springs lock, stalk and barrel.. Oops....forgot to mention a few things, Use the ford shackles too, they are almost identical to MJ shackles and the springs were $85 for the set at the JY, SUPER cheep.

Excellent!! Thank you guys so much. I was worried that I had a "real" wiring problem.

OK, now I'm going to sound like a complete idiot, but... that does not look familiar. Is it at the bottom of the column on the left or inside the column???

I am having a problem when I start my truck (GM column) The truck starts fine but the power to the dash, head lights, tail lights and marker lights does not come on if I rotate the key a little bit forward a contact is made and the dash lights up. When the vehicle is cold it won't stay on but when it warms up it will stay on. I replaced the lock cylinder which was nice because I can now access the accessory function and it won't start without the key now, lol, but it did nothing to fix the a fore mentioned problem. When I was in the column I looked for, cleaned and put a dab of dielectric grease on any and all contacts that I could find. What am I missing? This feels like it could potentially be a dangerous condition. Help Please Thanx Eric

Thanks Crash but I am looking for factory style links. Thanks you for the suggestion Eagle, I thought about making these out of a coupling nut and some grade 8 but it looks like an other week point. Hornbrod. how much lift do you have? I'm guessing at least 3". I see you have the relocation mounts for the sway bar that would move the SB down an inch and out an other inch, so do the links need that so as not to interfere with other suspension parts? Do you recall what years that they are from?

I'm getting ready to put 2" spacers in the front of my 87 and want to be prepared going in, Logic would tell me that the new links should be 2" longer to match the lift, but just because logic would dictate doesn't mean that it is correct. In this case I'm dealing with two springs, the sway bar (torsional spring) and the coil at each corner. I am relating this to a set of rear leaf springs where adding 2" of shackle adds 1" of lift. So..... the question is, should I go to a later model Jeep end link that is 1" longer or the F350 rear link that is approx. 2" longer. The stock links appear to be too short at stock height. And just to be clear, I am not looking for the suggestion that I spend a mint on adjustable, quick disconnect links, I'm not going to. Stock style (only longer) is just fine. And I am not looking for speculation, I would like to hear from those that have put this into practice and their results.

OK, don't look for an other Comanche for a parts Vehicle, find a Cherokee with the parts that you want. And here's why, (anybody can correct me if I'm wrong) the Comanche 5 speed was (I think) an AX5 = week, the Cherokee has the stronger and more desirable AX15, and a more modern (or at least newer) engine and T-case. Look for a later model XJ with the non disco D30 LP and if you are lucky bigger disc brakes, keep your rear end and re gear, your pioneer "should" have a Dana 44. My opinion.... my $.02 worth. Oooops, I did mean HP= High Pinion

Oh, you meant the spring eye bushing? Yeah right? that would be awesome but I did just install a new set of polly bushings a few days earlier, so no worries on my end. But, I'll tell you this, the next time I have to do a set of springs on an MJ (I'm sure this won't be the last time) I am installing a set of F150 springs Lock, Stock and Barrel and just drill new holes in the rear spring pockets 1 inch back, using the Dorman shackles I'll only have to replace the front bushing in the mains. I think this will be a cheep and effective upgrade as the F150 springs are cheep, progressive and wayyyyyy more modern than the MJ springs.

Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't the Dodge Dakota beds the same dimensions as Comanches? I almost bought the bed AND shell from one about a year ago, I kinda wish I had.

For the rear SOA sounds like your best bet if you don't mind the axle wrap and a long arm kit and springs in the front is going to be about your only option to keep your geometry in order...... along with that adjustable track bar. Three inches and some trimming would be a lot easier on your wallet and your truck, can you live with 32"s, or do you just happen to have the 33"s on hand?

A-man, I am not the least bit worried about the size of the bushing as the F150 is, I believe a considerably heavier truck and at least these parts are available for replacement. Changing out that bushing every 4 or 5 years is fine with me. A big thanks to Hornbrod for posting these pics for me.

I just did the rear springs on my MJ and due to the condition I was not able to reuse my shackles. I'll bet a lot of you have been there.after extensive searches I have found that stock replacement shackles for the MJ are in the unobtanium category and the only options seem to be the Chevy/GMC lowering shackles or some such other piece that in our case give lift. I was not after lift and wanted to keep my pinion angle correct. By chance a buddy was in the process of doing a Ford F150 bastard pack on his MJ and I noticed something, with the exception of the bushing size and that they seem to be made of heavier material, the F150 shackles are almost Identical to stock MJ shackles. The F150 shackles are about 1/8" longer eye to eye which for all practical purposes equals no lift. And the best part..... they are cheep and readily available. I got mine at Advance Auto, they are for a 2002 F150 2WD, for $29.99 ea. Dorman OE Solutions Part# 722-019. I would post side by side pictures but posting pictures on here is a PITA. I hope this helps those of you in my position.

I have a buddy that aside from the color of his truck is identical to mine, including the sagging rear springs and he has had the same issues finding a set for his MJ as I had. I gave him a copy of a spring chart that was posted in a link here and he had a thought regarding a set of F150 springs. The springs in question are an inch longer than stock MJ springs and he just went out and got a set and he is going to install them as is on his mj by drilling a hole an inch farther back in the shackle pocket. Any thoughts? Has anybody done this?

The manual regulators for later model Cherokees seem to be cheep and plentiful, anybody ever tried that?

I have changed regulators in both Comanches and Cherokees so the "how to" is not what I am looking for here. I want to convert from electric to manual and I cannot find a good pair of manual regulators. Is there something that might retro into the Comanche? Can the motor be removed from the regulators that I have and be converted to manual wind? OR, even better.... does anybody have a set that they would like to sell? Cheep, of course LOL Thanx for looking. Eric

OK, I guess that given the responses I should look for something only slightly smaller than 32's BMX and shelby have considerable lift and still some interference and crash has just slightly smaller tire with minor rubbing at stock height. Sometimes a half an inch can make all the difference in the world, it's looking like the WJ LCA's are a sound upgrade for this formula. Thanks for the input, much appreciated.

Well having the updated head on hand certainly can't hurt but make certain that you don't have a cracked block. Investigate, be certain that it's just a head gasket. If it is the head gasket you'll know as soon as you remove the head, the failure is usually pretty evident. If you have been planning any internal upgrades now is a pretty good time to do them. My logic is that if I have the engine that far apart, might as well just get it all done and never have to do it again. It's a good time to do the cam, lifters, push rods, water pump and timing gear.

Oh, OK, now I see it. I had to blow up the picture to see all that coolant/oil mixture in the rockers. I would say the head gasket is a good bet. Did you happen to notice if there were exhaust fumes coming out of the radiator or has the rad expanded and may be started to leak when running and under pressure? At least a head gasket but could be a cracked block or head too. Did the engine overheat? Was there white steam coming from the exhaust?

The pic and the caption are pretty vague. Can you be more specific??

OK, I got my spring dilemma worked out. I found a NEW set of stock springs for $100 on CL so I'm good there.... Now then, I have been looking for a set of tires and found a set of good used 32's for a great price and I want to know how much trimming I'll need to do to get them to fit without a lift. I like the idea of low and stable. I have been tossing about the idea of using 4 rear TJ flares to both open up the fender wells and to allow me to cut out some rust on the rear passenger side wheel well, plus I like the look. There is a possibility of adding V8 springs to the front to level out the rake, but I'll have to wait and see when I get the rear springs installed and installing Grand lower control arms for clearance and strength. Let's hear your experiences and opinions. Ready, Set, Go.........

Shelbyluvv What I am trying to accomplish here is NEW springs at a reasonable price, stock height would be just fine with me. Stock Wagoneer springs have a slightly lower spring rate than stock MJ springs but the FSJ is considerably heavier than the Comanche and these springs are up rated to carry more payload, they are essentially a re-arched heavier duty spring. I DO NOT want used springs. I DO NOT want a bastard pack, and even if this option were OK with me my main leaves are shot and this seems to be the most critical spring in a bastard pack. The up rated FSJ springs that I have referenced can be had for $150 a pair less than stock MJ springs. If this works out as I hope it could be beneficial to every reader in this forum.

I have been considering a similar swap for mine as well but was more concerned with drive shaft length.

OK, I think I'm going to pull the trigger on the 4" Wagoneer springs after reading a string on here where a member used a set of used, stock Wagoneer springs in SOA and got about 4 1/2" of lift. If I am getting all of this rite spring over on stock springs should net about 5 1/2" to 6 1/2" of lift. So...... with 4" Waggy springs in SUA I should net about 1" to 2" of lift and That should be little enough that I can compensate in the front with spacers or up country springs and some adjustment (I do plan on installing adjustable lower links to compensate for caster changes) I "think" that there should be enough adjustment in the stock steering linkage to compensate???? Comments, thoughts????