chopper35nj

Yes, I would mount them spring under, just like stock MJ. I am aware of the wag sag I have had 1 Wagoneer and 2 GW"s and the @$$ was always dragging. but the springs that I am referring to are upgraded for greater GVW and arched for the lift. They are aftermarket, brand name up rated springs, ProComp. So, if stock like new waggy springs would lower an MJ 3-4" this "sounds" like a viable option. And, the pair would be $150 less than the few other options for a "stockish" pair of MJ springs

Pete, How much lower?? I could compensate with a set of shackles. Eagle, you're right, that's why I brought up the lift springs. Do you think that a Wagoneer spring set up for 3-4" of lift would get it in the ball park? At that price I would pull the trigger if I had some confirmation as to where it would get me and anybody else that might be in the same position. I don't want used springs, I don't want much if any lift and I don't really want a bastard pack especially since the main MJ spring seems to so critical, mine are shot. So... I guess the question is, how much does a stock set of waggy springs lower an MJ? Anybody know?? If it's 3-4 inches then this sounds viable. Also, if anybody is interested there is a set of new 4" lift MJ springs on CL in the Philly area, I would buy them myself, but with that much lift the front end geometry would be more than I would want to deal with and too much money to sort.

I have replaced the oil pans on every XJ that I have owned and my Comanche as well they do rust out. I get them from the dealer and the last one I got was $80, the rear pan support is critical but you now know that, but what I really wanted to say is that you should NEVER "RTV'd the crap outta" anything that could let that stuff into the engine, use as little as you can get away with. Silicone is made from silica ie. sand. I know it feels smooth but RTV is downright abrasive AND could get loose and plug important oil passages and galleries.

And..... now something new has been added, lol. I just noticed that the Grand Wagoneer rear leaf packs have exactly the same dimensions as the stock MJ rear springs and parts geek has them for less than $100 a piece Dorman part # 2307-05214716. capacity is only 1150 lbs. though. Just food for thought. AND...... Andy's Auto Sport has 3-4" lift Pro Comp springs for the GW on sale at $114. Thoughts???????

I was hoping to hear from somebody that had already tried out a set.

97 to 03 F150 springs also look like an option at (A/B) 26.5" X 31.5". On a Ranger this gives about 6" of lift so if the ride height of Ranger springs is lower as I think the Ranger springs may be flatter this could be good compensation and maybe solid lift springs from the JY for cheap for those of you looking for more lift.

Hornbrod and Eagle, It would appear that at least one sight advertises the Ranger springs measurement (A/B) 31"X 25 5/8", I saw that one too, however all of the other sights that I have looked at has those #'s reversed. I will have to have a look at a Ranger personally to confirm, but from what I have seen the majority has them listed (A/B) 25 5/8' X 31". These measurements are pretty comparable to stock MJ springs. I am really more concerned with the arch and ride height when installed the capacity is similar at 2500 lbs. and that is plenty for my application as I run air towing shocks for added capacity when needed. From what I have seen the lift springs that are a good price will add too much lift for my liking and the stock replacement springs that I have found are half again as much. I do intend to add a small amount of lift (1 1/2" to 2") to comfortably clear 31" to 32" inch tires and actually make it look like a truck.

I have been reading... and reading etc. etc and haven't been able to find what I am looking for. So, here's the question, has anybody here installed '86 to '03 Ford Ranger or '91 to '94 Ford explorer springs in the rear of their rig? They are comparable in length and capacity to the MJ springs and are far more reasonably priced than any stock replacement springs that I have been able to find. I do not want to use a bastard pack or AAL mostly because my main springs are just past it. These springs would require that the alignment pin be flipped as the Fords are both spring over but aside from that there should be little or no modification required. I would like to know what the ride height and ride quality is on the Ford springs as opposed the stock MJ springs. Any thoughts?? Thanks for any useful information. Eric

Plugs are fresh (less than 500 miles) and yes I did gap them. I never trust a plug that is "factory gapped". Yes, I can hear the pump prime when I turn the key on. No, I have never run gas line antifreeze in this truck, I haven't been driving it that long. After many years in Vermont it is kind of the go to first move when you have this happen.

No, I have not done that. I will try that in the morning. Some say they bypass them on every or Comanche or Cherokee that they get just to take out the week link. Am I understanding this correctly, the resistor was only put there to cut the voltage to the pump in order to quiet it and that removing it will improve the performance of the pump?

No, it turns over fine and does fire, it started twice on seperate occations and died right away then just turns over.....and over.....and over.....and over, you get the point. My old Grand Wagoneer with a 360 would start in any temp north of 50 below and my Eagle with a 258 never let me down. I lived here in the great white north for 25 years but this is the first time that I have had my Comanche here in the winter and have never experienced a 4.0 in the cold. I guess I'll start with a bottle of Drygas and a can of starting fluid.

It got realy cold lastnight (5 deg.) and for the first ever my Comanche would not start. The engine turns over freely and has been running great, it tryed to start twice, so obviously I have all of the elements needed to run (suck, squeeze, bang, bolw) are there and I can hear the fuel pump run until the system is pressurized..... So, I guess the question is, Is the 4.0 known for starting hard in the cold and is there a cure for this problem? Thanks for any help. Eric

In all of this I am using my old XJ as a bench mark, my daughter has it and drives it every day. The pedal in that Cherokee is perfect so I had no reason to think that this would be any different. Wouldn't the need for a prop valve to the rear indicate that the rear brakes are maladjusted? I think re-replacing it might be the next step, good thing I keep reciepts. Thanks Eric

Yep, that's the part. The half inch square drive.

OK, I did all that. I disassembeled and cleaned the prop block, it was surprisingly clean but it is now spotless, all O-rings are in good shape and the shuttle valve moves freely. I removed the rear drums and looked for leaks at the cylinders, nuthin'. Falling into the "while I'm here" category I cleaned the rear brake system and pulled the adjusters apart, wire brushed and anti siezed them, reassembeled the brakes and adjusted them. I then cleaned the entire brake system with brake parts cleaner, and I do mean "the entire system" end to end all the lines, fittings, etc. I vaccuume blead the system at all four corners, got in and pumped the peddal twice and had rock hard peddal, had a look around, can't find a single leak..... lookin' like I have this beat, right?..... Nope, start the engine and the peddal go's streight to the floor. What the hell? I am so frustrated. I have never experienced anything like this. Any other ideas????? Eric

Again, good advice. Thanks I'll check it all out.................. AGAIN!!!!! Eric

Ok, that sounds like a good idea and I will do that. I do however have rear brakes a little too much actually, they lock up and that could be the proportioning valve malfunctioning. My big problem is maintaining pedal pressure though.

I have been having problems with my brakes since I got this truck and just plain got tired of messing with used parts, so .... I replaced ALL brake lines, calipers, cylinders, master cylinder and booster. I figured that way I would have a new brake system good for another 100K and just be done with it. The only piece that I haven't replaced with new is the metering valve, I did however swap in a metering valve from a 96 XJ with about half the miles as my Comanchee, I did this because the shuttle valve in the stock metering block would not move freely. The load sensing valve was removed from the truck when I got it and the bypass line outlet hole in the metering block plugged with a brass plug. I have been trying to get this system blead for quite a while, so I bought a vaccuum bleader and hooked it up and it works realy well, when finnished I had great pedal after pumping three times but when I start the engine the pedal go's to the floor, when I shut it off the pedal does not rise, and the booster holds vaccuum telling me that the booster is working. When I drive the truck I am not totaly without brakes though but what I do get is way down at the bottom of the pedal stroke and tends to lock up the rears and the turns on the "BRAKE" light on the dash. I am at the point that I want to start driving this truck on the street but not like this, safety is a great concern to me. Just so you know, yes I did bench bleed the master and it was rock hard and I can't find any leaks in the system. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Eric

I have done this on both my XJ and now my MJ to replace my U joints. Don't use heat, bad for hardened parts and bearings, PB blaster for a few days to soak and at minimum 3/4 breaker bar and I use a 6 foot piece of 1 1/2" pipe for an extention. If you want to run the torque #'s I weigh 220lbs. and have had to bounce on the bar a few times to break them loose, that's ove 1300 lb ft to bust them loose. I broke a Snap On 1/2" breaker and a Craftsman 1/2" breaker bar doing this before I went to Harbor Freight and got that cheep 3/4" breaker and no more problems.

OK Cruiser but that dosn't get me where I want to be. Hornbrod's suggestion should still be valid, right? Pick up a large positive lead at the fuse block which should be getting full voltage from the alt. and connect the voltmeter sensing lead to that, that should give me a fairly accurate reading from the alt. I guess my question really was should the sensing lead be fused? Common sense would say yes but, will that get in the way of an accurate read. Thanx Eric

Thanks Cruiser and Hornbrod good advise. There are a couple of grounds there that I'll have to go back and look at, I still have about six feet of 4ga cable and a half dozen copper lugs. That should cover all my basses. Just to be clear, PDC= Power Distrobution Center, AKA fuse block, right? What you are suggesting is exactly what I'm looking for, an accurate read of the alternators output. Should the sensing lead to the PDC be fused in line or are you saying that it should be attached to a fused circuit already there? Thanks again, great advise. Eric

Is there a way to adjust the voltmeter in my Comanche. My Comanche is an 89 and the cluster is from an 89 cherokee. While I had the engine apart to replace the head gasket I thought it would be a good time to replace the alternator because it was now so easy to get at. The old alt. looked like the factory origional and the guage read quite low. I installed a new 100 amp alternator and while I was at it I replaced the battery ground and the engine/firewall ground with 4 ga. copper primary wire. The guage reads higher but nowhere near the 14.4 Volts that I get at the battery. Any thoughts? Thanks Eric

That's prety much my thoughts Rocker, But again the Truetrac is, if memroy serves is like $450.00 but a rebuild kit for the trac loc can be had for $75 from Quadratec. I could rebuild a Trac Loc 6 times before the cost caught up with the Truetrac. I like the gear driven aspect of the Truetrac and it looks like a great piece of equipment but still a bit cost prohibitive. I have no intention of using an auto locker, a selectable would be nice but $800.....Damn. Thanx Eric Thanks Hornbrod, that is what I was looking for..........

Good advice Rocker, Thanx Eric

Hey Dude, I had a lunch box locker in my TJ as well and I did not like it at all, more than once in the snow in 2WD it spun me. I will likely go with a lunch box in the front as I have and plan on keeping the CAD, Cad makes a lunch box prety much a selectable, but I also plan on doing some towing and don't want to risk the locker engageing or disengaging at the wrong time. A limited slip is completely seamless and again even the lunch boxes are a bit on the expensive side. The LS in the Honda/Isuzu are high quality made in america parts and that should last a long time and can be had at many JY's........ cheep. P.S. I'm not giving up my 44 for an 8.8. Thanx Eric