maddzz1

Try checking if the vacuum line is clogged from the map sensor. If it is idling ruff you can also check the fitting where the ccv tube off the back of the valve cover connects to the intake, sometimes that fitting can get clogged.

I sent chrysler an email about the valve not being properly bored I want to see what they say.

Thanks. I plan to do a cluster swap this summer.

How would I do that? I need to replace my leaking rear main when the temp goes up a little ( I have never done this before and a little worried about scatcing the crank), should I change the oil pump while I have the pan off since it is probally the original pump?

I am using 10W30 quaker state, but after seeing you post "parafin" in another thread I did a search and think I will change that to a different type when I change the filter. What weight and type should I use? 89 4.0 140,000 What do you think about adding a quart of something like slick 50?

What would cause this. It only seems to happen when I have been driving and my truck is warm. When I pull in to stop the oil light will flicker on. I am not stopping short or on a hill. I check my oil and it is full. Am I somehow losing some oil pressure when the oil warms up and thins out? I will also replacing my fram oil filter after reading the other thread yesterday for a napa gold (made by wix).

Yes, it is an automatic. If I look up right in back of the oil pan and against the thin metal plate that covers the front of the transmission(bellhousing) There is a 1/4" gap and I can see something silver rotating/spinning.

A while back someone made a post of all links to other sites for tech and other mj info. Anyone have the link, i can't find it.

Yes, I'm pretty sure its the rear main. I will be pulling the valve cover and cleaning it and putting a new gasket in just to make sure it isnt running down from there. I am also replacing the CCV and PCV lines from the valve cover.

I didnt think it was dangerous. I just started the truck and slid under to look at the rear main while it was running. I was more worried about the truck popping out of gear and rolling forward with my chest pressed under the diff. I guess I won't do that again. Thanks

Is the water pump shot? Did you replace the water pump recently? I read something about 2 different waterpumps. One that spins in the opposite direction. Look here: http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Coo ... gnosis.htm

When I look up at the rear main should I be able to see the crank spinning. i think its the crank cause I can see something silver spinning. Doesnt this mean that dirt and water can get in there?

I already got the CCV pieces from napa to replace the old ones and I am picking up the PCV one with the new orifice tomorrow. I am waiting until I take the valve cover off and clean it to put them on. Probally this weekend. I will check the leak again after this is done. I layed under my truck for 15 min last night watching he main so I'm pretty sure that is it.

Rhode Island $3.09 to $3.27 for regular I saw diesel for over $4 the other day. I heard it should be $4 by memorial day. :eek: Time to convert to omish and get a horse and buggy and do some old school 4 wheeling. What is turbo blue?

If you are talking about the air in the system you should raise up the back of the truck and remove the temp sensor to let the air out. When anti-freeze starts coming out screw the sensor back in. I just replaced my radiator but i didnt have to burp the system. Damn taz your fast :cheers:

Got it here: The history of the I6 http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticles/ ... index.html

Thought this was a cool pic so I figured I post it. Helped me understand a few things better.

I discovered today that it is my rear main not my drain plug :mad: How hard is this to replace on a 1-10? I know I don't have to drop the tranny. Should I get a mopar seal or the double lipped one? Anyone in the RI or Mass area who would enjoy spending the day helping a new jeeper replace a mian seal?

I think my brake pad is moving back and forth. The top where it has like a hook to hold it in the caliper. If i move it back and forth it makes the same noise. I have never done brakes before. Can I replace the pads without having to bleed the system? Should new pads fix this or is there something that holds the pad from doing this that i need to replace?

What do you mean tried to put it on and it is not coming off? The old one won't come off? At the heater valve? Did you buy a 180* thermo?

Does anyone have a pic showing the difference between the hi and lo pinion? Incase you couldnt tell I'm still new to this. thanks

Good thing i just bought a new jack and jack stands :roll: :mad:

yes it was a tapping sound like when you have almost no oil in your engine. I checked my oil first and it was low ( i have a leak) and thought I had messed up my engine. But after driving around the block 10 times I'm pretty sure it is coming from the wheel. I am going to pull it apart tomorrow, just wanted some ideas on what to check. How do I check if my wheel hub is bad?

Not sure about the resistor but knowone has the sending units anymore. They will give you one for an XJ and then it won't fit.

89 4.0 4wd My driver side front started making a noise tonight. At first I thought my engine was tapping/knocking. It doesnt start until I get to about 20mph and stops when I apply the brake?