CWLONGSHOT

Thats is the correct way and the way I was doing it. Two "C" Clamps, one on either side of the center bolt. I turned it maybe a revolution and it all came apart!! Just unloaded sent the clamps flying!!! Here I am assembling after the welding: JT, Thanks for the heads up, but I'll support Motion. They have two to choose from. I'll be ordering them very shortly!! :brows: CW

Nope, Not me.. But you can make your Comanche BENCH BASES work with the XJ buckets EASY EASY EASY!!! :brows: :brows: CW

Your absolutely correct and that's what I will do... Only thing is I have a show next weekend and this Jeep HAS TO BE THERE!!! :eek: I see Motion has a 3 and a 4.5 pack. So I'll be ordering a set later tonight or tomorrow. I am only inquiring if anyone else has experience and opinions on if it will/should hold up to short term use. I know my welds are up to the task. Just worried the heat ruined the "spring" and when weight is put on then they will just bend and stay bent.... Thanks for the info Pete!! That's good to hear!! Like I say, if it where only the lower leafs, I would be so worried...but its the MAIN AND the bottom two. But By adding a brandy new leaf and having two others in good shape.... Its welded, assembled and all bolted up. CW

I have the cap completely on just like there is nothing wrong.. been fixed now for almost two months and 1000 - 1500 miles. No issues on mine. CW

Sure can!! On my lil Mazda it worked GREAT!!! ;) CW

Well, I got a chance to jump on the RE 1410 ADD-A-LEAF tonight. This is the full leaf from RE. My hope was not to get lift, only gain a bit of payload and I believe it will work well. Its for a XJ and I think it gives a 3" lift for them. I unbolted everything pretty easily and the DS went on with out a hitch. This AAL is so long it fits under the main leaf of the RUSTYS packs I am running. Its a very good match with only slightly less free arch than the rest of the pack. On to the PS and the actual rant... :cry: :headpop: :headpop: Now I bought these maybe two years back. My MJ has 83K and had 60? K when I bought it. I ran it for about a year before installing these 4" lifted RUSTYS leafs. So we are talking 10 - 15K miles here TOPS. I unbolt the U Bolts and begin to remove the center bolt... KLANG... I finish with the bolt removal and the bottom two leafs also fall apart. You can tell by the pics that these have been busted for some time as there is rust between them. Some you can see finally gave up the ghost as I unbolted the pack. Now I need new leafs... Oh MOTION...Motion....:roll: :D If it wasn't for the 5-6 beers and the incredible back spasms I am having now, I would be really pissed. I know welding is a NO-NO on leafs as it destroys the temper... But do you think it would be OK for the short term??? I welded and ground the lower leafs and they appear fine... CW

Gonna be doing my ADD-A-LEAF's and new front coils this weekend. I was prepping for that when I remembered I had bought this and wanted to change out the diff fluid as well so I threw it in... Just a touch of bling..... :roll: Gonna fix that bad paint as well as bed-liner for the Jeep show on the 21st. CW

Come on guys.. I have been coping well with the fruit in the beer thing... Haven't I? But lets not go RAP!!! Love the country, rock, even heavy metal and occasionally classical, but NEVER RAP!!! :roll: :roll: :eek: :D PLEEZZZZEEE!!!! :roll: :roll: :roll: CW

SUA is the way FACTORY rear suspensions come on our Comanches. Spring Under Axle. SOA is Spring Over Axle. ;) Unless LEAD has something to add........ CW

They are called "MODS" my boy. Some good and some not so good. :D :D ;) (Act second pic was as I bought the truck. Cherry bomb was quick fix when first muff split.) CW

You have just figured out what gearing can do for you!! :D CW

So your telling me STOP DOSENT mean Spin Tires On Pavement?? Sorry man this SUX big time, dumb broad. Hope she gets a good ticket!! One of my major peeves is failure to stop at a stop sign. I caught my self heading for the street the other day hollering at some dumb kid going too fast down the road. then I remembered being a dumb kid going too fast down the road LAUGHING at the old man yelling at me.... :roll: :D I think I am getting old. CW

ARC is different than MIG. As I use it, ARC creates more heat faster, so penetrates better. I use it for thicker applications. Think Lincoln Buzz box. Generally use flux rods where shielding gas isn't required. All but the most expansive units do not use gas. MIG offers finer controls and finer wire allowing better thin metal welding applications. Although you certainly could by a balls out HD unit that will weld everything a ARC can, generally they are used for thinner welding applications. Can be run with or with out shielding gas in all but the very cheapest units. CW

Thats how its done!! Well said!! CW

I cannot find a good pic... But if you look all the way to the right in this shot. Just behind the cat. You will see a piece of it. its square and bolts to the exhaust where the flange of the cat bolts to the front collector pipe, Right above the X member. As the truck ages, the rubber fatigues and allows the exhaust to get closer and closer to the X member causing lots of alarming noises. CW

I have walked away from this post TWICE... I am TRYING to be more reserved. CW

Its VERY common. Its a rubber piece, wrapped in steel. Sandwiched in with the tranny/Tcase mount but not part of it. The hanger slides in from the back. I omitted mine and made up two new more sturdy hangers to take its place. CW

Lead not Follow... BTW WTF is your actual name?? You, like me, didn't read the complete post. I also think its a good move, and I said so in my post. I said it would be better if he used a late model. (didn't read '01) I know all about the dimensions of the axle, that's why I said it will LOWER it SUA and RAISE it SOA, its written in my first post. I also pointed out you MUST REWELD perches, in my post.... :roll: Some times I wonder why I give all this information... :roll: ;) Sorry, I DIDNT read you where going SOA and that it was a '01 axle. :oops: :oops: CW

Could you elaborate a little more on this please...? :bowdown: First off, don't worry at all about the Tcase. There is NO vac source there. Its merely a "switch" when you shift into 4WD it ALLOWS vac to run to disco. Which in turn allows the diaphragm to move the shift fork and lock the outer stub axle together. Vac comes off the engine at the pass side fire wall. Just plug the vac line running down to the disco, remove all other lines from Tcase and disco diagram and call it good. CW

Mines LONG gone!! I ran for some time with just a new line from the front to the back a hose to the union on the axle out to each wheel cylinder. NO PROBLEMS!! Yea, if I heavy footed the brake the rear would lock up first... but so did every single CPU I ever drove!!! (Sans the brandy new anti lock junk.) You will have to search, I just do not remember which hose you plug. I wanna say the one in the nose, but DO NOT QUOTE ME, as I am not sure. One is a return sensing line the other is the actual brake line. BTW, you will get a brake light on, on the dash. You could also swap in an XJ proportioning block/valve into the system in places of the junction block the MJ's have. Its in that same post from Eagle you are going to search for. :brows: :D CW

Brand new doesn't mean SQUAT!!! NEVER NEVER assume its right just cause its new. Check with your own eyes. Its the first thing I thought of too, EXHAUST!! Check just behind cat where it goes over the Xmember. ORCA gave good advice!! There is a rubber mount the hanger "plugs" into that sags with age. I added another hanger there on mine as it did almost exactly what you describe. Also check just below the manifold to see if the front yoke is contacting the exhaust there. and lastly where the exhaust goes over the axle. be sure its not too close to the bed/shock. Good luck, CW

I think your confused, or are not completely explaining everything you want to do. First off, swapping in the 8.25 is a OK move. Better if its a late model with disc;s and 29 splines. BTW, you do know its NOT a bolt in? Perches and shock mounts must be moved/welded. Second, as the 8.25 has larger tubes its NOT going to raise you at all. As a matter of fact, it will LOWER you in the rear. (Only by 1/4 - 3/8 of an inch.) This is because MJ's are SUA from the factory. Now if your thinking of putting the springs OVER the axle. You will net somewhere between 5.25 and 6"of LIFT. this varies because the height of the perches you choose and a little because of the increased tube diameters. XJ leaves are much shorter overall than MJ leaves and will not fit with out extensive work moving mounts. Shock length is best determined after the fact by compressing and extending the suspension and measuring. CW

Its just as qute as a button!!! :roll: :eek: CW

Are the factory rear one actually 4 X 6? Thank you. Mine where!! :D CW

Ford Ranger covers should fit just fine... CW