CWLONGSHOT

I am likely getting a set of suspension seats for my TJ and would like to replace the MJ's XJ buckets with the TJ's factory seats. I also hate the fact that my hat won't fit on my head while driving as the XJ seats are higher than the bench was... Any one do this?? Just looking for pointers, once I tear into the thing, I know I'll make it work. I just figured I would ask if anyone has done it before and could offer any advice. It's likley going to be a while before I actually do it....weather FINALLY getting cold!! CW

maybe its just me, but this is still confusing to me....what end is loose?? If it is truly the frame end and the nut is tight on the TRE, then the bracket is shot. its hole is wallowed out and must be replaced. If its the axle end, and the bolt is tight, it could also be wallowed out. If it is, just weld on a thich washer of the appropriate size and bolt everything back up. Your cdone. CW

I made it from 1/16" Aluminimum. So its mostly for looks. I bent it with a couple bench vices and 2X4's. Pretty easily bent really. Mounted with sillicone and pop rivets.

The frame end of the factory track bar is a TRE. It has but one nut holding it on. Unless your talking about the mount where the TB attaches to the "frame". The axle end of a factory TB, has a bushing and attaches with one thru bolt. This is the usual place where it will loosen up. If its not been driven too long while loose. Its very likely you can just tighten it and move on. If left loose it will wrae out the bushing/sleeve. Requiring a replacement. Some pics of your problem area in question would be a great help. CW

Just the fact that they seem to be trying to convince you how good THEIR heims are raises a flag in my book. Like Pat already told you, you could run TRE's on top but the JCR pass side TRE will not work. When flipped the taper is wrong. All other TRE's will work fine, you just need to find the application where this taper is on the other side. Maybe BRONCO stuff??? James Duff carries lotsa Bronco goodies!! Personally I have run this JCR stuff into lotsa rocks but am yet to bend it. I KNOW I CAN, just haven't yet. I am not overly careful of my steering since the JCR install. CW

Also not all require the ring gears removal. I had to on a set of 4:10's but I believe 3:73-1 and lower numerically will not require it. CW

Personally I do not like Heim joints for the street. Lotsa other reasons, like single shear on this style setup and thats a BIG NO-NO for heims. That and Rustys "history" is enough for me to not go with this setup. I know you have read what I have to say about JCR's 1ton conversion. I also know you said your bro has it. Why not go this route? BTW, The brown suit guy just dropped mine off today!! Woohoo!!! CW

Its about all I listen to on the radio, for the past ten years. CW

Something everyone needs to realize. EVERYONE wheels different. In my local club we hit all kinds of trails with all kinds of vehicles. The D30 holds up very well with sensible driving. if you want to drive it like you stole it, (Man I hate that term) you are gonna break. Having said that, As others have said, it has its limits. I feel these are 35" tires and a locker. Alloy shafts in a HI-pinion model is your best setup. Not that you cannot run bigger mind you. I have a guy in my club running a very light YJ stretched with a Super 30 and Super 35 axles ARB locked and 37" MTR's. He has broken a couple U joints and one axle but overall, his setup works for him and his style of driving. Before you ask, yes he runs the big dog trails. ANYTHING can be broken, everyone will do well to remember that. CW

I completely agree with Eagle. I do like the idea of rear discs or discs all around. The factory braking system will work if you just add rear discs it will work it will not work anywhere as well as it could. Like Eagle said you need a better prop valve and as you suggested a better booster, one intended on utalizing discs at all corners. Eagle did a nice write up complete with pics of where and how to connect the lines. Likely a good search will turn it up. But as memory serves, you need to plug one line and move the rear line to the "nose" port in the factory distrobution block near the booster on the inner fender. One theing, if you do this... CHECK YOU LINES VERY CAREFULLY!!! Bettre yet, RUN NEW LINES!!! Just like Eagle mine blew out when I opened the rear prop valve and depressed the brakes. Imagion if I had loaded up the MJ and took off....I hit a good bump at the same time as depressing the brakes. POOP, would have gone the lines and CW would be in the ditch with a banged up MJ. After you run the lines this way, the same amount of fluid will go to the back as the front. You should have a harder pedal with much better brakes. just be aware, if you don't have weight in the bed the rear tires will lock up first. I did not find this in any way dangerous. Every one of the pick ups I have owned had the rear brakes lock up first in a panic stop. A better way to go is to add a XJ prop valve and a '95+ XJ brake booster and call it done. Thats my 2 cents. CW

I have both. A MJ lifted 6+" and JCR steering. First off, not to disagree with Dirty. But in my experience, anything over 4" of lift, will bind the steering with articulation. Yes you can live with it @6" on the road for a short time, but you are forcing the TRE's to operate at their max angle and they wear at a accelerated rate. The TRE at the pitman arm and the one at the and of the drag link are the ones effected. I am on my third steering linkage since lifting to 6.5". Now I have been replacing the linkage with used stuff as I had it here, so it was likely partially worn when installed. As for how and why the JCR style is better, look at the drag link. It runs to the tie rod, not the pass side knuckle. This eliminates the sever operating angle at the axle end. The pitman arm joint is a beefier joint (All TRE's in this kit are 3/4 ton stuff) Thats slightly bent to be at a more neutral angle. Now this has its flaws as well. As force is applied to the drag link to steer the vehicle the tie rod can "roll" slightly. causing a lag or dead spot in the steering. I have fixed mine with some J series truck spacers. i spoke with the guys at JCR and they are now making up poly spacers for under the TRE's to help minimize this "rolling" effect. It works quite well. I have a JCR steering upgrade here for the MJ. Its going on as soon as I get the MJ back from re-gearing. I have been running the JCR steering for almost a year in my TJ, both on and off road. I had one problem with a faulty part, but they have re-engineered that and are now using a different vendor for the parts. they stood behind their product to the point of sending me replacements FROM THE TRAIL TO MY HOTEL. GREAT SERVICE!!! I cannot say enough good things about this company or these people. CW

Correct, But I will add, no matter what axle you run. Disco or NON-Disco, makes no difference. A lunch box locker will be invisible in 2WD. You will hear the ratcheting in turns, telling you its there. CW

the brakes are NOT the issue!! Its the funtionality of the rear prop valve!! When its working fine its OK but the trouble is unless you have some weight in the bed you do not get much bias to the rear. I ran with full bias to front AND rear for some time. (NO rear prop valve)The brakes where MUCH BETTER than even before. As a rule of thumb, you lead with the little shoe and the star likes it big. Meaning the adjuster star is nearest the rear shoe were the little cable is. CW

I am not 100% sure...Its blue now W/blue interior. I do have a full set of Gray trim pieces..... I am thinking of keeping it blue though... Dodge "electric" blue is my favorite. I have no idea what the REAL NAME of this color is, Its a brite blue, much lighter than the DK blue it is now and I will not need to change the registration. CW

RE drop brackets are on order... I should get the MJ back in a couple days with brandy new gears, rebuilt D30, and new D44 rear complete with a Auburn ECTED!! Then its off to the body shop for a MUCH needed paint job!!! I also got my JCR steering painted!! CW

Gonna show my age a bit... Just last year, I celebrated the 11th anniversary of my 29 birthday... ;) Here goes, and not necessarily in any order: Crosby Stills Nash & Young Jethro Tull AC/DC Johnny Cash Led Zeppelin I don't even know 3/4 of the bands you guys are listing!!! :cry: :oops: CW

My locks don't/havent frozen...but my latches have!! Try driving to work with a door that will not stay shut!!! :headpop: :headpop: Usually once the interior warms up the door works again... may I suggest something synthetic, with a MUCH lower freezing point? CW

http://www.offroaders.com/directory/info/dana30.htm There was some pics posted on here I think. This is one of them...Image Not Found But there was a couple really good ones of a good looking trussed D30. I searched a bit but didnt find it. CW

Nice job!!! EVCELLENT referance!! CW

First off, WELCOME!!! :cheers: Thank you for the compliments too!! You are correct about the tires, four on the axles are 33X10.5X15 while the spare if a 33X9.5x15. The axle rims are Outlaw II with 3.75" of BS while the spare is a factroy steel rim with 5.5" of BS. because of the narrow width, it is just fine with the stock BS. You need to trim the lower rear edge of the front flairs. but with 4.5 thats all you really "need" to do. I am sitting at 6.5" up front, (4.5" springs with 2" spacers.) and 4" Rustys springs and 7.5" shackles in the back. ( Rustys springs get about 5", while the shackles another 1-1.5") I trimmed and relocated the flairs mostly for the rust elimination. CW

They worked just fine. kept the wider tires out of the LCA's? I WOULD use them again. Just didnt like the re-torquing problems. After many back and fourth posts with Pat, (PONG) on this topic, I would just lock tite them and call it good. Why this mfg dosen't recomend it whale Spyder trax does is a mystery... CW

THANKS FOR POSTING THE LINKS!!!! I have been making my own pieces, his are nicer and CHEAP!!! I added this to my favorites and posted on my local site for others. GOOD JOB!!! CW

Mine is currently DK Blue, kinda non discript. I don't really like it. Its nice you made this post. As soon as I get my MJ back from the shop for the re-gearing. I will send it out for a paint job, and I havent decided on a color!!! I like the look of the bright Dodge blue. its on some RAM's but I see it frequently on PT Cruisers, at least around here. I saw a brite Yellow MJ in one of the rags and absolutely, LOVED the look!!! Trouble is I have blue interior...that would look like puke, Yellow and Blue interior... I do have most everything to swap the interior over to Gray...that wouldnt be too bad.....I just thought, I do have gray seats and Gray headliner material to go in as soon as it gets warm enough... I don't know... CW.

I ran them for a while....finally removed them as I couldn't keep them tight and this mfg dosen't recomend lock titeing them on...they said after a couple of re-torqueing they will stay tight. Well they didnt. Plus theye are not DOT legal for road use. So you would be held liable if something happened that in any way involved your rim mounting.

"UP" would be the end of the arm where the rod attaches, disconnected from the axle and pushed up towards the bottom of the bed. The way the valve works is as weight is added to the bed of the jeep the suspansion compresses. This compressing opens the valve up a bit allowing more brake bias to the rear tires increasing braking for the increases load now in the jeep. CW