Badger

why would you need a custom rear axle?just use a front 60 its that easy.the hard part will be not having enough room in the rear wheel wells for full turning radius. this is unless you clipping the rear or tub the fenders out as well as sectioning the frame.

Fords have always been drivers side drop.you know he is running ford axle.Well if he is running Ford axles and they are drivers side drop wouldn't you think the case would match? As mentioned the 351 is pretty tall and you would be hard pressed to have it not hitting the hood.Add the plenum for fuel injection and it will be even harder.Though if you used a 5.0 HO plenum they are lower then the truck EFI plenum. As for wiring it for EFI you might have to change the heads as well can't remember.I can't remember but I believe you can use 302 heads on it as well.The wiring itself is easy as hell . When i get done with my project it will be rocking a 302.

never said he didn't have more clearance on the outside edge but that has nothing to do with ground clearance.his width is less then a conventional slider ,so that would be more side clearance not ground clearance.its semantics really.oh and i never posted pics of my sliders .i don't even have rockers to protect right now. look closer he also has a piece of steel going to the pinch seam.

here i'll even show you using your own picture. see look at that ground clearance is the same.the only thing you have improved is side clearance. now don't get all upset.you ask what people thought and i told you .sorry to throw your theory out the window and prove you haven't gain any more height then any other slider out there.i'm not trying to take away from your design just simply pointing out you are wrong in one aspect of your build.you have lost just as much ground clearance as any other.

hate to break it to you wise @$$ .i thought before i spoke and you are still losing the same ground clearance. you can dream that your not all you want.yes you do have some extra clearance at the body but the arm which attaches it to the frame is just as low as any other slider out there so you are losing just as much ground clearance as they are.any rock that passes under the vehicle is going to hit your arm just as it would any other slider.hence you have lost the same amount of ground clearance.sure if you are passing by a rock you might skim by will the other types will rub but thats not increased ground clearance.yours are not as wide thats its listen and learn before you speak.

i feel sorry for that guy,rear radius arms ackkkk.for what he is doing it will work but that is something that should never be done.it creates way to much axle steer.lets hope he never goes rock crawling with it.

so you didn't want to sacrifice ground clearance and used angle iron to protect the rockers.yet your arms stick down below the angle iron just as much as if you just used some box tubing makes plenty of sense . hate to break it to you but you lost your ground clearance anyway.

granted the slip yoke should be on the lower half or second shaft technically it would work.not saying thats how i would have done it but it would work.normally you would want to have a yoke directly after the pillow block this way you would have a long drive shaft to the axle itself.

you must have real crappy gas, my moms got a built 355 and she has 11:1 and runs pump 91 different motors can handle different compression ratios.i had a built 460 pushing 11:1 and making over 450 horse and that was on mid grade. 4.0's do not like to get above 9.5~9.7 or they start to have issues.what you might think is 9.7 in reality is more like 9.5~9.6 once you take into account of the head gasket thickness, ring landing area,and piston dish. did you actually cc everything? from the head to the piston while in the block to truly figure out your compression ratio.or are you just taking a guess as to what you have based on parts used?

i'll stick to what i said.its going to get expensive really fast.after reading most of that thread i see how he is doing it or getting away with it,using a dished piston to bring compression back down after stroking it.the stroker kit i have (but haven't used yet) is using 9.25 compression pistons so i'm already at the limits of pump gas.

actually the renix's intake,exhaust ports are smaller and more restrictive then the HO as for building a stroker turbo ,good luck on that one.you are bringing up the compression ratio close to the limits of pump gas with a stroker kit alone.so how do you plan on bring up the compression even more with a turbo?you only going to be running race fuel? going to get expensive.

so wait you are driving around with no rear brakes?

yep full width 44/60 combo

oh i completely agree with the longer leafs of the Mj doing better then the Xj's shorter leafs.I still wouldn't want to sacrifice any travel up front just because of it though.i was more trying to point out the the lose of articulation is mostly from binding. i had no problem stuffing the rear tire its just a matter of the obstical

how much flex could you need huh? i need a lot and stock ford arms are not going to provide it standard Y link radius arms the only thing that was stopping it was the shock and the brake line.

tell me about it i can't fit in a MJ hence the reason i'm making mine long door extra cab.this is also going to be one of my last builds for 4 wheeling.so i want it to be comfortable and beefy to take the beating.

the doors are 9" i have both sitting in my garage.were did he say he was building an extra cab?he simply wants to be able to move his seat all the way back and maybe recline it some. i don't even think he plans to move the seats are you TNT?

i have placed my opinion on this enough .i will keep my mouth shut from this point forward unless asked for what i think.good luck with it can't wait to see how it comes along.

no i completely grasp what he thinks he can do. remember. if you cut the floor around the frame you are just making so much more work for yourself.trying to make new floor pans ,cab mounts,even with what i'm doing i wouldn't want to get into all that. if he cut the frame and plated it he wouldn't be losing any integrity.

so do you have a long bed now? you have 8" from behind the shackle to the rear of the bed?i thought the short bed had the hanger right there at the back of the frame.

right before the curve there is a spot welded seam on the rockers and the roof.get a spot weld cutter for those .from there i would cut straight across the floor and roof.when you cut the new pieces leave a 1" tab over hang for over lapping the new and old sections when you flange them together. as for the frame rails i'm telling you your making it harder then it needs to be.if your plating the frame just cut the rails and splice in new pieces.from what i have seen in doing my chop this is the best solution.with the way the cab mounts to the frame rails its next to impossible to get the floor free of the frame rails/rear cab mount .so then if you figure you'll seperate the floor from the rear of the cab its going to be a total pain and making it look good when you go to close it up again will be a total pain because of the floor rise and frame rails.the second issue with this way is mounting the seats .because of the floor it would be rough.the way i describe it would just be two seams which your going to have to have anyway.the floor remains flat under the seat area which makes that easy to move back. next problem you have to solve in either case is were are you going to clip the frame when you shorten the box/bed.if you just clip it off the back of the frame you will have to come up with new spring hangers all around since you would need to move the front spring mount forward to make up for the amount of frame you cut off.or you would have to use a shorter spring which would reduce flex.if you cut it off the front you have the same issue as the rear spring eye moves forward the front one has to move forward with it.

if your are going to chop the sections from another MJ take it from the middle of the doors.at least thats what i would do.take the 8~9 " from the roof and the floor.this will make it a bit easier to handle sine they would just be strips.from there i would plate the frame to connect the new section to the old. you could cut the back half off right were the rear of the cab starts but the floor rises up there which would make it rough to splice in the newer section.the frame rails get funky in that section as well . just make sure when you cut the floor section to get the frame rails with it.and leave them a bit longer then the floor .

Oh and you should be able to call AT&T and tell them to send you more filters or you can search a few electronics stores for four contact plug filters. As for cable being cheaper wait till your 6 months is up.Its cheap now but it will not stay there.Other then a fax line which you can technically do from a computer I see no need for a home phone any longer.I have not had a land line for over 10 years.Even when i was forced to get DSL because i had moved to a location that cable wasn't available and would never be I got it without a voice line just DSL.

First - you need to ask yourself how bad do you need the second line?How many phones do you have or need? The reason for the filters are to take static out of the lines for voice phones that are on the same line as the DSL.So if you have two phone lines the DSL signal is only coming down one of them not both.So to keep both lines on one phone you might have to get a bit creative.Now you can either do this behind the wall plate or outside of it.You will have to take the two lines that have DSL coming down them off the wall plate jack put the filter on them then connect them again.Now here is were it can be a pain.You need to figure out which phone number is caring the DSL signal unscrew the two wires that correspond with that number from the back of the phone jack.Splice them into the filter by either clipping the plug off the filter then plugging it in the back to give your out wires or you will need to sacrifice a plug from another cord then rig a female plug for the other side.Now take those wires and put them back on the back of the wall plate.This gives you DSL signal to the modem from the back of the modem there should be a phone plug with 4 contacts.Plug your office phone with two lines into that.This should give you your two phone lines and DSL service like you would like. Now onto the the modem and drivers .Some you can just plug and play.Others you will have to load a program into the CD drive to activate the modem.Others you will need to load drivers off of a CD.It all comes down to the type of modem you were given. hope this helps

question would be why not.. stonger :brows: more gear choices :nuts: full floating axle :hmm: or thats what he wants :D actually not all 60 are full floating.the Mopar axle that keeps coming up was a semi floater.the 5 lug dana 60 in the J truck was a semi floater and only had 19 splines on the axle shaft which is pretty much useless for strength. the only options you have is either cutting one down or using a larger offset on the rims to help bring the tires back in.