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Everything posted by Badger
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just going to say uhhmmm the Western Desert .when i had my last Xj i spent a few times out there just blasting down long dirt roads to nowhere.thats how i cooked the motor in it.
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if you have an axle with welded on wedges why wouldn't you just slice them off and make a regular mounts.the problem with Ford radius arms is you will lose even more flex with those over the standard jeep mounts.they are both radius arms but the Jeep mounts allow for more movement between all the mounts.most Ford guys that run them slice one side(wristed) to allow it to rock back and forth with suspension droop and compression since the axle wants to rotate as it cycles basically it severs the same purpose and taking an upper link off of a Jeep radius arm.
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nothing really this week .i'm still waiting on getting the 220 wiring done for the welder. plus i took a day to make some one sided ladder racks for my truck. oh i used my ready welder to make them before you ask.
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i'm not going to argue there .the claw was designed to be an all around tire were as the TSL was designed for mud.so ya the TSL is a better chioce for straight mud running.but for street/trail/rocks the claw is a rather good tire.now for trail and rock i'd use the TSL SX .its a great tire .a tire is designed for certain jobs and some excel better then others at this job.different terrain calls for different tires.the same terrain and different vehicles could call for a different tire.everything is relevant with tires and how well they work for each person
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what are you talking about? i liked my Claws and though they worked rather well for what they were.
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righttttttttt as in the french touche' not touchy never know with the way some people spell anymore.
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did i seem touche ? i was just saying color will be red whether it be a bed liner material or just red rattle can.
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it never once did a burn out in 4 wheel drive so your title is false. it did many a rear burn out then a few front burn outs but not one 4 wheel burn out.
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shrub scratches will be the least of my worries.this is going to be mostly a rock crawler with some speed running out in the desert.so imagine a desert truck that is a rock crawler. thats kind of the picture i have in my head. oh and some bed liner companies sell a flat coat that is not textured ,they also come in multi colors not just black.i never said what i was painting it with or how just that it would be red.
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you can do what ever you want as long as it works for you.just telling you what i think would be the easiest way after playing with it myself.
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the cab will most likely stay red
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that link is to something completely different.but still an interesting group of pictures
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you know that for a fact? i have never seen information on it before other then those pictures.
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how i explained it would give you all the room you wanted ,the correct B pillar,and a what ever size door you wanted to run.yes its photoshopped but that doesn't mean its not do able . the reason why it doesn't look right is because it was the long door on the front.the person who did it shrunk it down to a size the resembles a short door.as said it s a photochop its only there to give reference to.
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see how it has that stupid door opening.the way i'm talking about doing it you would get a full door. you could save some more space by taking out the vent area.
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i know exactly the one you speak of and it was hacked and cobbled together horribly.i'll say it again since the Mj has a stronger thicker frame and is flat from the rear of the cab back to the bumper.not to mention the longer wheel base would be helpful.this would give you the ability to give the people in the back some good leg room as well as be able to just use a standard front bench for the rear.this gives you enough room for some speaker boxes back there as well.
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i explained it in project "X-Cab" i'm sorry. i explain how i would do it again to make it a suicide 4 door extra cab.i explain the 4 door a few posts down.but the first post explains it for the mot part. the reason why you don't want to graft the MJ rear half to a Xj is the Xj frame is weaker and harder to make work.the MJ frame is thicker ,bigger ,and is flat from the back of the cab to the rear bumper making it easy to construct a floor.
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the pin stripping is throwing you off this is what its looking like on both sides unless you are talking about a different body line.if you are referring to the vertical i used a piece of masking tape to follow.
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its hard to see but the roof had to be rounded more. if you remember it was flared out after going at it with the dollies .if you can see it is more rounded and straight down
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worked on the roof some more today of course the ribs will get blended in closer look the floor still has work like i said the bottom of the seat fits but i will most likely be using a Master Craft bench
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like i've stated in the other thread(project X) to do a 4 door is simple compared to this as long as you stay all comanche parts minus the rear doors off course. as for a long window i thought about it but it is to late at this point since i didn't leave enough Xj to make the window frame .second reason i want the vent is because thats a Jeep signature .you see that vent and most jeepers know its a Comanche of some type
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the way i sloppily wrote it above would work as a 4 door as well just use the shorter stock front door.if you want working back seats the body has to be the same length so to go from an extra cab to a 4 door is not much different.only real difference is with the B pillar.you could do it one of two ways.cut just like i said above but instead of welding the cherokee B pillar to the door you would it back to the body or the other way would be to cut the Comanche right on the door seem.meaning you cut and seperate the outer skin form the B pillar leaving it.take your Comanche body ring weld it into place.take the rear doors and B pillars off the Cherokee and weld the B pillars onto were you cut the Comanche cab and blend them in.do the thing with the rear doors and another set of Comanche doors and you are done . one 4 door with square doors all the way around.
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no it really wouldn't have helped much so it would have gotten the job done faster but it would have also made it look worse .the Xj's roof line passes right below were the rounded section of MJ roof is.so it would have made a square corner behind the cab.yes this would have been easier to accomplish but it would also look like @$$ .they way i'm doing it in the correct way it will keep the rounded section of the roof and make it look more factory. just because something might be easier doesn't mean thats the way that should be taken. the frame will be 2x4 from the front end to the rear of the cab.the entire bed will be made of tubing that will also tie into the exo cage.
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some more pics i didn't get to upload till now now i just need to work the passenger side like the drivers side.then i need to work on getting 220 up to the garage.damn rental homes never have what you need,lol. i'm hoping to have the chassis done by spring .at that point i can either strip out the engine,trans,and case for something else or just beat the stock drive train for a bit with some real axles under it over course.
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so today i did what you all have been waiting for -well some of you anyway i cut the last bit of cab roof off to start shaping it.this is were that picture of the dollies and hammer come in . i cut the section off leave just over an 1" above the window it left me with the interior header still poking up cut that back next using the dollies and the slap hammer i started stretching out the roof line with it tucked under the XJ roof of course i still have to do some more massaging to make it fit just right.clean up the edges and flanges them .then tack it all together. i also finished framing out the drivers side rear window
