87manche

is this yard north or south of you, sounds like they have a whole lot of jeep stuff. I promise I won't snake that trans from you.

damn I wish I could find a JY as cheap as you... Junkyards in this area think they're junk is gold.

my MJ is currently more of a DD than a trail rig. So it would be nice. Last night I was especialy wanting it, with mixed dry asphalt and icy patches.

1. Mad props to anyone racing cycles. Big nuts involved. 2. Nice looking truck! That thing is clean. Be sure to post up in the comanche picture thread at the top of the forum.

not everyone is driving a trail only rig! I'd like to keep it looking nice until the trail damage happens. I read somehwere: The fist dent hurts, after that it doesn't matter.

yeah, I may start looking for a 242... the more I read about full time 4WD the more I want it.

nope, that's about it. Took me about an hour. Things to watch ot for... The fluid ends up on the fuse block, you need to clean it THOROUGHLY. I'm talking unbolting the fuse block from the firewall, cleaning it with electronic cleaner and replacing all the fuses. You'll want to do this sooner rather than later, trust me on that one. Bleeding the master cylinder was a PITA! I finally rigged an electric vacuum pump to a jar and sucked fluid through it as fast as I could pour it. I'd highly recommend some sort of vacuum bleeder, trying to pressure bleed it got me no where, and we tried for an hour. Took me about 5 minutes with my vac bleeder setup. Don't tighten the master cylinder mounting bolts until you get the hose on. It's much easier to get it together with things loose. Be careful not to cross thread the flare nut, it's difficult to get in there because of the lip on the firewall. That's about all I can think of.

so when you gonna make it 4x4? :D

so that's the Toledo truck eh? glad to see you got it home in one piece. Good luck getting the cltch hose. It took two tries and a week for my NAPA to get it in. I think I have the box in the garage. If I find it I'l post the P/N for the ax-15 hose.

yeah, I remember that hewas the test rig for them. In fact it's his white comanche on their website. I also am too lazy, but you can see it if you go to rocky road's website. http://www.rocky-road.com/comanche.html be happy I got that link for ya :P

so what's the best way to get those off. I tracked my above 45 MPH rattle to the passenger side one. I smacked it on with my hand, but I'm sre it's going to work it's way loose again. I'd like to get it off, repair whatever clips are broken and put it back on with some foam weatherstriping so it fits tight again. Do I need to fashion a slim jim like tool to get under there?

it certainly wasn't the most scientific experiment, but it was good enough for me. Besides I figure tat it wouldn't be all that noticeable with the tailgate down. I'd rather leave it up, so it doesn't get broken, or rattle. I HATE rattles when I'm driving, I finally tracked down my high-speed rattle, and can say that my MJ is as quiet as she can be when going down the road considering what she is. At least it doesn't have any more rattles and creaks.

check the oil filter adapter. Mine leaked, and I could have SWORN it was the rear main. Degreased the engine and found it coming from the adapter. $5 worht of o rings and an hour later it was fixed. A word of warning, that torx bolt is a bear to get off. I was afraid of breaing it off.

master cylinder. That's precisely what mine did.

http://awshifting.com/ manumatic

mythbusters tested this with two f-150s. Tailgate down was a noticeable decrease in mileage.

I saw pictures of one that came in an XJ on NAXJA. So apparently they do exist. That guy was going to get the PN off the bellhousing. Don't know if it ever hapened. Thread was about a month ago, might do well to search over there.

yeah, my neighbor has a TJ, and wheels with a guy that's got two cjs he's making into one good one. He's got one with a 304 and one with a 258, so I'm hoping that he stays with the 304 and ditches the 258 and I can get the crank and rods for a song.

you got a link to those BDS springs? I'm looking to replace my stock packs cause they're shot, might as well do 3"

I completely see your point, but I don't have acess to welders and such to make new mounts and everything else. It may cost more money to do the stroker buildup, but it's within my skill level. That and I want to get a sticker that says 4.6 litre on it :-D FOrgt to mention, got outbid anyway, someone on NAXJA was competing. sucks.

re: the frame rails. A friend of mine came over with a garden sprayer and wanted to attack my MJ. Apparently he's been spraying ATF inside his rockers and frame rails for years. fall and spring he does it. Says he's yet to have a car/truck rust out. Something to think about, didn't take but a few minutes with a sprayer. I imagine it does help, just by coating any metal that's already exposed.

I'm with Pete's situation. I got a free block and head. Speaking of which, does anyone need a Renix head that's in good shape? I was just going to do a rebuild, but then the dark side of engine building seducedme, and all this talk of 300 ft lbs got into my head. Now I'm oing a stroker, and then I figured that if I was doing a stroker then I should put a higher flowing head on it, then if I was going to do the head I should put the 99 intake on it, and then, and then....... Soon it turns into an expensive project, but I've never built a motor before, merely repaired them. I figured since I had the spare block I would use it. My motor is still quite strong, in fact it was probably rebuilt itself not too long ago. SO I can sell it to defray some of the cost when I make the swap. Anyway, it's a long rambling post... I went with the stroker because the MJ is my DD, and the swap will have to take place in a weekend. Not to mention that if I went SBC or 4.3 then I'd have to get all new accessory brackets, and such.

Tirerack has this to say Original Equipment Optional 235/75-15 If you never plan on taking it offroad then I would get the long trails. probably a nicer ride on the road as they have a center rib. not as noisy.

I plan on useing the renix computer. It's just so damned easy to fool into the proper fuel mixture with a map adjuster. I'm doing the research now into adapting the TPS. That's not a big issue, just some work with a dremel. The fuel rail is most likely my biggest issue. I've not seen the 9+ intake up close, so I'm not sure what's involved.

well, I got a free renix block. I figured that if I was going to rebuild it then I should just stroke it. Right now I'm looking for a good HO head, and 99+ intake. Going with Speed pro hyperu whatever pistons. .30 over. Should get a CR of about 9.5 and upwards of 250HP. Gnarly power. Definitely what the Mj needs. of course I'm going to put in the AMC 20 with 4.10s first. I don't think that the 35 is gonna hold up to that kind of power.