87manche

got it in today, not bad, I ordered it friday. Was going to spring for overnight shipping until it said $40. Went normal ground, ot it in 2 business days, total cost of $27. It's a Crown Auto part. P/N is 758977K If someone can find it cheaper. Seems to be made of thicker plastic than the one in the truck, I don't know if it's OEM or not. Has a nice metal sleeve in the upper return line so it doesn't collapse Has a metal threaded insert in the top, the one in the truck has a plastic insert in the same location, anyone know what that's for? oh, and the cap is taller and has better grips, so I can open it with a gloved hand. I'll bne putting it in tonight. I've danced enough with fate on the old cracked one.

yeah that's how mine was, I just took it off the stands, and jabbed the prybar into the ground at the base of the flange, then just levered it against the back of the flange.

it's been discussed. They will fit, but it will be far from perfect. They might be god to use for the crease, and then you could make your own sheetmetal from there. My MJ has been repaired there, it was seamed just below the crease with flat sheetmetal, then some light body work ws done to blend it in.

(dumb question) the 242 as in the 4.0, or NP242? I had meant the 242 as in the 4.0 The 4.0 shares the same bellhousing pattern as AMC small block motors, so it's actually pretty easy to get a belhousing to mate different transmissions to it.

take a tape measure.

yep. Mine were stuck pretty good in an axle I got that was from an 86 and never been touched. If you don't have a slide hammer you can try putting a wheel on it backwards and using that to pull on th shaft. Since mine was out of the truck I stuck the end of a crowbar into the ground and just pryed on it. Popped right off.

take apicture of your bench brackets if you can. I'll go look at my bucket brackets and compare. I would post pics of mine, but the wife has the camera, won't have it for a few days.

http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/sm465.htm can be mated to a 242. that low range might be awfully nice :)

lots of people do the PORC one and like it http://www.performanceoffroadcenter.com ... ath=33_120 cheaper than AA by $50.

yep.

I had"helper" springs too. Seemed worthless to me. I think as you compress the leaf spring the overload leaf cranks on the end of the helper, and keeps it from sagging so much.

all the parts on the axles should be a direct exchange. The 90 used that wierdo electric hydraulic pump ABS system, I doubt that any of the brake hydraulics in the engine compartment are compatible. Maybe the proportioning valve, but none of the master/pump stuff is the same.

calm down chief. If you've got a donor vehicle you need to move over the parts I listed, and anything else you need.

go find a donor cherokee. You'll need the font axle, transmission and transfer case, center console and a whole bunch of stuff. This is why it's best to get a donor vehicle.

oh yeah, I figured that. When I got two different price quotes, from two dealers 30 miles apart. My bottle has not failed completely, but it's got some severe cracking on the top from the major overheat on the trail.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... post844691 something like that perhaps, without all the link mounts and such.

from the reaserch I've picked up there are some that have the stamp and others that don't. Depends on when they were made I guess.

in your case Stumpy I would say cheack the TPS, check the TV cable that goes to the trans and readjust it, and check the lockup switch on the brake pedal. It looks like another brake light switch above the , um, brake light switch. It tells the TCU when you've stepped on the brakes, and unlocks the TC. To make sure your TC is locking I would run a temporary switched 12V to th solenoid wire and lock it up manually. Just so you know it's functioning mechanically.

did the truck have AC to start with Pete? If not I'd appreciate some documentation. I've been really thinking hard about AC in my MJ, after the Uwharrie wheeling in 100* heat suckage.

that too.

So looks like my overheating episode in Uwharrie has fatally wounded my coolant pressure bottle. I just ordered the quadratec one, any experience. It was cheap, I'm sure it's made in China, but I'm planning on doing a new radiator anyway, so it only needs to last until I convert it to the open system. Came with the cap though. Dealer wanted $57 and another 15 for the cap.

double locks that are DOT legal for the street no less.

If you ever replace one, crack it open, you'll see why. It's a few traces on a circuit board with some small copper fingers that ride on them. It seems a very fragile design. If any of the fingers lose tension then it doesn't work properly, get it wet and they corrode.

that's just stupid. Not only is the handling comprimised with that lift and tire combo, but the tires are probably only rated to 80. If it is indeed true, and I doubt it, then the tires would have leikely tread seperated, and he would have died.

not in norcal, but I know a guy in flagstaff that made mine, I like them, and I can say that they will stand up to rocks. he's xjnation on naxja. rockwerkz.com I think/