87manche

if you're sure it's a fuel pressure problem I would look at the fuel pressure regulator.

4cyl models with a five speed are your best bet for 4.10 axles.

if none of the lights work then I'd say ground, because they all have different circuits that feed the bulb 12v.

from what I've seen the sx isn't as good in the slop as the regular TSL. just my 2 cents. regular tsl's are freakin awesome though.

when it comes time to cut fenders are you keeping the stock flares?

front skid is the same as the XJ, but it's pretty much worthless for protecting the steering linkages if you're at anything but stock height. It is however excellent for keeping mud/rocks/water out of the vulnerable alternator, and that's the only reason it's still on my junk.

thanks for the clarification Eagle.

they do, but be sure that they're big enough to clear all of the knuckle/brake stuff. for reference the stock jeep rims are 5.25" backspace. so to end up with a stock track you'll need a rim that matches 5.25-extra WMS width.

easy way to find out is to see if they take the same bulb. I don't think they are though, as we have stop/turn/tail bulbs, and cherokees have seperate bulbs for stop/turn. Go and look at the parts store in the lighting section, they have an assortment of standard bulb holders and they're uually a few bucks.

well, I got it to start and drove it from the neighbors to my driveway. 91 civic dx, 130K miles, 4 sp auto. not a bad find for $200. the bad: it's totally bare bones, no ac, no power, not even a center console. It's gona be nice getting 35 MPG.

just bought myself a $200 civic. Needs a wheel cylinder, got some rust on the wheelwels. gonna be awesome not driving the MJ everyday on bias ply swampers :)

http://madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techni ... Panels.htm that's what you need right there. Probably take less time/money to cut them out and put box in there.

looks just like mine, I had the factory light package.

I thought that too Eagle, but it was a brand new bench bled master. I just couldn't move the fluid fast enough through the hse to get te air to travel down and out the slave. Harbor freight has a vacuum bleeding kit that's OK for $18. It's well worth it.

x2 it's such a PITA to clean up, and it kills u joints.

the problem with gravity bleeding is that the bend in the tube that goes above the brake master traps air. I delt with this when I had the hose burst and when I had to replace the master cylinder. Take Eagles suggestion, get a vacuum bleeder by any means you can, it really is worth it's weight for bleeding the clutch system.

thank's CW. I'll show him your rig, and see what he thinks. It may look stupid, but I was thinking about a Beetle side marer or something on top of the fender, or maybe just grabbig one of those Euro side markers and mounting it in the tub on the side.

I just saw in the other thread about you flat fendering your TJ. My neighbors TJ has the fenders/flares all mangled, and he was going to do something similar. Care to post a few more pics, along with what you did for side marker lights?

belive it or not I don't have one from that front angle. I got a kinda rear shot.

well, I wouldn't call getting a free detroit screwed, but yes, it's not gonna work like you want. Have you verified that the 8.8 with the locker is only 28 spline? If it came from an fx4 ranger it would have 31 spline count locker that could be moved to the explorer axle. If not, I say run it cause it was free, or sell the locker and build an explorer one. I still think that the 28 spline 8.8 is on par with a D44, so I'd run 33's on it with no worries at all. Run what you got, drum brakes aren't horrible for performance, they just need more maintenance.

it's pretty simple. The wire used from the factory is pink. It comes out of the hazard plug on the back of the fuse block. so the wire travels like this Brake fuse-behind the fuse block to the terminal for hazard flasher-split off to the brake switch-back to the wiring harness and to the connector for the rear harness. You'll find the rear harness connector on the drivers side under the dash. It will have a big fat orange wire (fuel pump) and the blue parking lamp wires in it as well. What's wrong with your brake lights now? How much of thw wire harness is missing? Do you have 12V at the switch?

some cylinders run hotter than others. Ever have a VW bug? Lots of people ran a colder plug on cyl #3 cause it always ran hotter than the other 3.

my wife bought the MJ. it was supposed to be just a pickup truck. Now it's trail rashed and on 34's and I'm looking for a DD XJ. I'm also considering tube bed. she likes the Jeep, just not what I've done to it.

did you lightly coat the o-rings with oil before you reinstalled them? Did you tighten the bolt to spec with a torque wrench? Did you clean the mating surfaces?

I second the preignition theory. I had an 88 mazda 323 with the 1.6L motor and it had burned a hole through the piston on #3. It has always ran great, after I replaced the piston and put a timing light on it we discovered that the timing was advanced about 20*. I guess that explains why it was so peppy, but the ignition had literally melted the aluminum piston, there was metal splatter on the con-rod.