87manche

they do make a system to actuate the towed vehicles brakes. It usually uses air. similar to this http://www.winnebago.com.au/products_aframe.htm

early selectracs did have CV joints. You can keep the axle and put new shafts in it. You may have to change out the knuckles, at the very least you'll have to get matching unit bearings.

when you install that new t-stat, drill a small hole between the mounting surface and the pellet. THis will aid in the water pump displacing the air in the head.

dakotas also used the AX-15, it's possible you got that mount.

the factory flywheel does have a concave shape to it,.

fine sandpaper and a lot of elbow grease.

it is about tire wear. with a narrow rim you bulge the top of the tread, so you have to adjust the tire pressure accordingly. The best thing to do is put a chalk line across the tread, then adjust tire pressure until the chalk line wears evenly off. That being said, I'd rather have a rim too narrow than a rim too wide. I've got chronic bead problems with my 15x8's and a 9.5" wide swamper, but that's how I bought them used, so I gotta buy new wheels or deal with it. Having a wider tire on a narrow rim also protects the rims and the tires bead area.

I still think you've got a fuel pump power problem. When you turn the key to start the ignition bypasses the ballast resisotr, giving 12V to the pump. When it goes back to run it runs it through the adition circuit for the ballast resistor.

I'd go the cheaper "box4rocks" route. I look at it like this: I can go and get a 3.73 geared 8.8 for $100, not mess with the gears, toss it SOA under the back and aussie lock it. Take all the money I was going to spend on gears, put that to a box4rocks. It would save me buying new wheels and expensive road tires. I guess the point is that I really enjoy the 3.73's on the highway with 31's. I have good power and get great mileage, which is important to me, as the Mj is not a trailer queen, and will be what we take on camping trips. So I think that for my uses a doubler makes more sense. I'll run trails just like I do in 4lo, and when I get to the rocks, put it in double low.

let me know how you like that. I think that I'm going to have to keep my axle gearing at 3.73, as the road tires are going to stay 31's and I like to drive 75 on the highway. A doubler is looking really appealing to me now, and is on the list right after the 8.8 I think I'd rather spend the money on doing the doubler than regearing the axles, and then having to find new road tires. Cheaper to do the doubler, and I'll end up with more gearing choises offroad.

find a local spring shop, they'll make them on the spot and probbly be cheaper than the packaged ones anyway.

an 88 will be Renix. You've got two choices. The AMC DRBII scanner, with the Jeep adapters The Snap on 2500 with the jeep adapters. Both are going to be expensive. With a renix rig you can diagnose most everything with a multimeter and a flow chart. Get yourself a good DMM, and a manual. You'll be better off anyway, for when it breaks down in the middle of nowhere you'll be familiar with it's operation. As far as a programmer, nothing available. There was a group in europe attempting to decode the ECU, as renault used it for a few more years over there and it was quite popular. Still, that project seems to be bogged down and hasnt had any updates in a while. The closest thing you'll get to a "chip" is the high altitude CPS, it advances the timing slightly.

not likely, get the t-case that was with the donor 4.0/trans combo. don't forget the linkages.

I've seen them on many different street cars. QA sucks, you might get a good one you might have to send it back. Coatings suck, everyone that had coated pacesetters doesn't after a year. is this for a 4.0 or 2.5? Looking for more power, or just replacing the manifold cause it's cracked?

skyjacker sells a long AAL. Rusty's sells 4" leaf packs You could go SOA with a bastard pack with less arch in the pack. Perhaps steal some leaves from a SOA truck like a dakota.

hey, you've got a load of time and money in your MJ. If you want it to be a summer cruising truck then do it. Nothing beats having a DD you don't need to worry about.

good pic duner. I think I'll be copying that when I go SOA. So you just cut the original and flipped it over? brilliant.

we've all done it. I got finished grinding the snot out of something, and then less than 10 seconds later just grabbed it with my bare hand. 2 lessons learned: don't be a moron Wear gloves in the shop.

My D30 did not have a crush sleeve, just shims to set the pinion bearing. The d35 has a crush sleeve.

my suggestion remains then, I like the k-40 because with a simple twist all that's left is the base. No gigantic whip unless I'm on the trail or the freeway. No real need to hae it around town.

that is similar to how mounted mine. I used an old mirror mount base, and clipped it to the back of the hood. I like it there, as it's easy to keep tabs on it, and I know when I'm going to smack a tree with it.

I run with 3.75, lots of clearance. With a tire that wide it's going to get into the fender.

I pegged the speedo to the trip meter reset wen I first got mine. It was amazingy stable for a pickup at that speed. 3.07's and 31's. I wish it was that stable now, but it's been well used. Complete front end rebuild soon.

betwwen 55-60 is when most tire vibes become apparent, I'd rotate them front to back as suggested.

I don't see a problem with the rock rings, the bolts are what takes the impact, not the stock cover. mines held on with grade 8 hardware, and it's not budged. My driving error at flatnasty resulted in me dropping the entire front end about 2 feet right onto the front diff. It was severe enough that I really though I had wrecked the front diff in the cab. Got out, just a little pushed back, still clearance betwwen the ring and the cover.