87manche

OK, I know that someone, most likely Eagle, had posted the factory drawings for the dimensions of the frame. I can't find them, I'm tired of searching. Who has it bookmarked? I'm looking for the top view, as I hope it shows the bed mounting points, so I can start designing my new bed.

that's a popular cut. most of the XJ guys simple cut and then fold the entire quarter up under the body, then bring the rear bumper forward to protect it, kinda like a mini rock rail back there.

can't u ruin other sensors by using carb cleaner on a fuel injected vehicle? I use carb cleaner as a generic term, but yes, you need to get sensor safe stuff.

Ohmygawd! CUT sheetmetal. He actually suggested c-c-c-cu-cu-cutting the body! :eek: I won't post a picture of it now, it'd make you cry. remember how it was all pretty and straight? let's just say I'm investigating building a custom bed for it.

don't forget about the rag joint in the steering shaft itself. the easiest thing t do is to have someone work the wheel right around center whhile you look at everything.

slave or master. For what a master costs I'd replace it, just to try and avoid pulling the trans. I think my new clutch master was like $20. bleeding it is a PITA though, I'd suggest you make friends with someone that has a vacuum bleeder. If the master doesn't fix it and the hose seems to be in good shape then you're pulling the trans so you can look at the slave.

that's an excellent question.

I think you might have that backwards Pete, I've got three non c 35's here and they all have steel plugs. axle years I've got here: 86 2.5L AX4 87 4.0 AX-15 90 4.0 Aw4

swapping the yoke is not hard, an impact will make it a ton easier, and you need a real stour torque wrench (250ft lbs) to get the torque right. sheesh! ours only goes to 150ft/lbs I thnk that the FSM says about 200 Lb Ft. I don't know, I'm away from the FSMs. but its somewhere up there. Honestly, when I did the pinion in the turdy, I just set the impact at 80 PSI and hit it. It's been fine for 6 months and 7K miles. The 35 is where you really need to have a torque wrench, too much torque and you'll crush the crush sleeve too far and you'll never get the pinion bearing preload right.

they look like recentered hummer double beadlocks, with a rock ring.

3.73's and 31s, with a 4.0 5spd. thats all I have to say. that and I like beating hondas.

my response is always... did you miss the 4'x1' JEEP across the tailgate? at the drive thru window, all he saw was cherokee fenders and door, and a pickup bed.

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=912817 sturdy, even when rolled. Why not simply try and find some flatter leaf packs, waggy leafs seem about the right length, pete was doing some experiments with an exploder set. Otherwise, I'd put it back SUA and then do an AAL to get 3" or so. I wouldn't even want to drive a truck tht high, but I'm a low CG kinda guy, and would rather cut sheetmetal than lift it higher (sorry eagle)

check the IAC. My guess is that it's gummed up or inoperative. When you take it out of the TB, DO NOT ROTATE THE PINTLE, that little guy will shoot across the shop. Just hose the hole that it sits in with some carb cleaner, and run a pipe cleaner in it. if that still doesn't work it might be that the IAC is bad. in which case the cheap replacement is a Holley part number, rather than the factory one. See here http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm about 1/3 down the page for the IAC.

swapping the yoke is not hard, an impact will make it a ton easier, and you need a real stour torque wrench (250ft lbs) to get the torque right.

impact is the way to go. Impact off the pinion yoke nut, pry the seal out(I used a small flatbladed screwdriver) Clean up the seal area. I put a small bead of RTV on the outside of the seal for good measuer, then use a large socket to press the seal into place. You *should* get a new pinion nut, as they deform so they don't come loose. I reused mine and it hasn't been a problem. Torque the nut to spec, the D30 uses shims to set the bearing preload, and I think that it got torqued to about 170, DON'T TAKE MY WORD ON THAT! It's been so long since I replaced that pinion bearing that I've forgotten. The rear D35 uses a crush sleeve, and I had good luck with torquing it down until it made contact with the sleeve and thentorquing to spec to get the bearing preload right. Don't overtorwue the nut on a crush sleeved axle, or you'll never get the bearing preload right There's a good writeup on madxj. http://madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/techni ... nSeals.htm

summit has a set with two holes real cheap. Added about an inch to rear of my junk. You'll need some washers, as they're just a little too big for the MJ spring. They were cheap, and they're beefy.

I had just gotten the MJ, went down to columbus. Rolled through a steak n shake drivethru. Kid in the window: Cool truck, it looks like a Jeep It is a jeep NO WAY!!!!! and that was the end of the conversation.

a good rep for street/non-hardcore wheeling goes a long way. super swampers are TRASH on the road. but i've never seen a 2wd vehicle do the stuff my bro's XJ did while the t-case was out. those SS's performed. they (33" thornturds) got him up a hill climb with locked rear open front, 3.55s in the rain that we barely made 6mo. later with locked f&r 4.88s and 35" BFG muds. :dunno: those tires did go bald in 1 1/2 yrs though. I find it amazing that someone actually had good performance with thornturds. step up to a real swamper and be amazed. they are absolute crap on the street, but I love them in the dirt.

the flywheel stores a considerable amount of energy, so it makes it much harder to stall your rig. the downside is that your motor doesn't rev as fast, and that it now has to support the inertia ring. the upside is you can rock crawl and not worry about stalling the little guy.

you'll want to put that in the engine compartment, on the lead from the alt to the bat. You can't put one in on the batt lead to the starter. stock alt output is 90 amps IIRC, so I'd go with a 100 amp or so fuse. at least that way you'll cut the alt's circuit, and not end up welding the cable to your frame.

find a local welding/fire supply shop, they can usually fill co2 tanks and have the regulators.

protofab makes nice sutff, and he arguably has the best mounting system, but wait times are long. I really like the fellas at JCRoffroad. www.jcroffroad.com they're awesome guys, and stand behind their product.

on that turn down, make sure you angle it a bit to the side, otherwise the pavement reflects it right back into the cab. that's how mine is anyway, I find it annoying, but I've been too lazy to go and rotate it.

I will say that also, my pioneer is a bit odd. buckets, full console, full guage cluster, sunroof, vent windows no power, no ac, 5 spd. I guess you really could order it however you wanted back in the day.