87manche

problem is that I've got a few large wheeling trips planning in june, or else I'd for sure take you up on that offer. I've got a guy local to me that's pulling his 8.8 out of his explorer, he offfered it to me complete for $150. I'm going to put my 3.07 geared d35 in the MJ, until he get's that axle out in may. at least that's the plan.

I've already decided on the 8.8 It's difficult to find an 8.25 geared 3.73 They don't even list them as an option on car-part. but there's lots of 3.73 geared 8.8's out there.

the tubes are beefier in the 8.25 so the axle flexes less, leading to less brekage. It also has a stronger pinion support, so you're less likely to deflect the pinion away from the ring gear and destroy it. it's a good solid axle, the biggest problem being that it doesn't go any lower than 4.56. The nice thing though is that there's no carrier break.

it's a d35, I should have replaced it from the start, I just wanted it to last through the summer. it's geared 3.73. I'm calling yards right now about 3.73 geared 8.8's. unfortunately the going rate seems to be about $300 for one that's complete with calipers. I can get them for $100 without the calipers, but calipers are $70(!) if you don't have a core to turn in, and the $100 ones don't have the brackets either, the brackets are another $30 a piece. That said, who wants to buy my full detroit for a D35. locker still works, I function tested it last night. $100 get's the locker.

is a busted rear axle. Not doing anything but driving the three blocks home, hear ugly noises, felt ugly things. 3 teeth gone from the ring gear. let loose in second gear, just maintaining speed.

it really depends on the area. I know that a D60, full float, 30 spline around here will fetch $500, even if it's in poor condition. A good condition one, maybe $750 THe 44, well, like I said, that depends on whether it has the cast wedges or the weld on wedges. ones with the weld ones, $2-300 is fair around here. Most people won't deal with the ones that have the cast wedges, but I've seen them go for $50-100.

if you can't undo a bra in the dark then you don't deserve them, it's like an entrance exam. :brows:

got pics? I think the 79 44 has the cast mounts, which is less than desirable. You can have someone weld to the cast part, or retube it. if the d60 is 30 spline and full float it's worth a decent amount of money.

make the tie ins and it will be plenty strong. I wouldn't weld them to the frame though, as I think the forces involved in revocery might cause the welds to induce stress fractures in the front end. I'd bolt them. Trust me, if you catch the sleeved bolt hole already in the frame with a 1/2" grade 8 bolt you're not gonna pull it out :D also, the tie ins go on the outside of the frame, so the bumper must bolt to the inside, or you'll have to modify the bumper so it will work with the tie ins.

4 cyl late model XJ. You don't want a D35, it's pure crap. The late model 96+ 8.25 from an XJ is 29 spline, and comparable in strength to a D44. The TJ front axle will work, but I believe that the TJ's were low pinion, which will cause your driveshaft angles to suck. it's not as strong either. I say your best bet is to find a 96-00 XJ, with a 4 banger.

depends. the 79 bronco, does that have the cast wedges? the 60, what spline count? is it full float?

does it have unibody tie ins?

I've got a skyjacker 3" AAL in the rear, it's not sagged in the year I've had it, and I wheel with 600 lbs of stuff in the bed. It does not flex unless you have weight in the bed. and it rides stiff on the street.

oh, and I reused the rearmost of the three bumper bolts, because it goes into a welded nut in the frame. other than that, the front two got replaced with grade 8, as did my steering box bolts. Steering box bolts are 7/16-14, and with a 1/4" plate need to be 4.5" long to get through the steering box enough for my tastes. The stock bolts are 4" long, and had enough thread engagement, but I like it when they come out the other side. I should add, the steering box bolts MUST be grade 8, that's what the factory had, I got mine at TSC, home depot/lowed is not likely to have that size in grade 8.

3/8 for the bumper bolts, 7/16 for the steering box bolts, 1/2" for the rearmost bolt that goes through the sleeved hole in the frame.

I've been playing in the rocks with 34's on the stock steering. For the easiest bolt on upgrade go and find yourself a grand cherokee (ZJ) tie rod, it's bolt in, but solid stock.

hah, jeff beat me to the photos, I was just about to post them. That's what they're supposed to look like though.

I know that somewhere I was supposed to take some pictures with the measurements. I found this: http://www.twisted-halo.com/digicam/xj/ ... 0mount.pdf and verifyed that the measurements are the same as those on my JCR plates. They are. so that PDF file is a good reference.

had a friend, with a yota camry. Had a wheel bearing replaced Went bad in a month Took it back Went bad in a month I took a look at it, the bearing was so bad that the new brakes I put on it had been rubbing on the dust shield! looks like the mechanic had simply been tightening up the stub shaft nut, so he deformed the stub shaft, and almost destroyed the seat for the bearing in the knuckle.

what can I say, I just like being low. it makes me feel more comfortable in the off camber situations. Now that it's up at 4" in the front, I think that's as high as I'll go. I'd like to 3 link the front though, just to get some ridiculous flex, and get rid of the skyjacker 3"+1" spacer and go with some 3.5" springs.

if the bleeders are broke off then you're f-ed, don't bother with them, new wheel cylinders are $12 a pop and will come with new bleeders. I'll take a picture of a complete D35 backing plate I keep around for reference.

-The long spring/lever that holds the adjuster level firmly against the adjustment wheel is missing on both drums. I think this might be the root cause. this is a problem. As is the brake bleeding. The brakes need to work in order to self adjust.

I plan a 3 link with a panhard for the front of the MJ, when I rebuild it next. I'm also seriously considering linking the rear, perhaps another 3 link with panhard back there, and airbags.

yeah, I've got the air tools, and they do make it easier, but with a 20 year old truck something is bound to be stuck. I hate rust.

Key's to a painless axle swap: Have at least 4 jackstads, two for the frame, two for the axle. Get a large pipe wrench to twist the axle, it greatly helps lining up the control arms. get spares for the bolts, the donor you get the axle from is a good spot to scavenge. Chances are you're going to have to cut some control arm bolts, I had to cut two. They seized into the bushing sleeve.