GHayduke

Weekend Update: I cleaned up the wiring in the cab and passed the rear lighting and fuel tank wiring through gromets in the floor. I RTV'd the MJ & XJ grommets in place and gorilla taped them so I don't bump them out before the carpet goes in. Shown is the underside wiring and fuel line in so far. Still need to finish emmisions line and rear brake line. It appears there is room behind the transfercase to put the emmisions box as planned. I then put most of the dash back together so I'm ready to see if the engine will start (if all wiring is right). I also put in the center consol. After Everything is confirmed to work, I'll put in the carpet and make it pretty, but for now I want access to the wiring. The underside of the Jeep is shaping up nicely. I use up the old paint colors I have around to do underside stuff that won't be seen. Here in the rust belt, road salt and rust are a big problem, keeping things painted really helps. I also paint all new parts light blue to track what I replaced. yes, I like bright colors.

I welded on the dome light braket last night. I also washed the engine wiring harness and AC hoses.... Anyone know how to put the AC system back together? I'm think I need new o-rings and I put PAG 100 oil on all the connections? Should I attempt to drain my old compressor of oil? I'm new to working on AC. I plan to put it all together & have it pressure tested and filled. Any tips or instructions would be appreciated!

lookin good- Did you get new carpet or donor carpet?

One more pic for ya............

Update Time! The Engine compartment looked so empty we filled it this weekend. It was raining so the engine & trans went on the hoist. the truck was rolled out, hoist rolled in & truck pushed back in most of the way.... The engine hoist chain and bracket chewed up the top lip of the firewall just above the engine some, but overall no big issues.. (Shhhh..I'm hiding behind the hoist).. For the most part it went right in, accept we needed to tap fresh crossmember mounting holes to get the bolts to go in. the crossmember sits quite a ways back from the old location in previously virgin holes. the truck sits at a nice height with the engine/trans & transfercase installed.... I'm thinking of doing two inch lift springs in the rear with the Cherro axle & then see how it sits.....

Did you go with the normal seat belt top mount hole? I'm planning on adding the adjustable top mount on mine from the XJ. I dislike when the belt is too hight and rubs my neck.... Though my new seat sit higher and maybe would be ok now. on the bottom: I'm not quite clear what you cut off, but I'll look at mine and figure it out. Thanks for including pics as I'm right behind your build.. (engine next weekend!) take pics of how you do your doors too please! Thanks!!! looking awsome man!

I installed the fuel line & emissions lines in the MJ. The XJ fuel line I cut off roughly where the gas tank will go for now. I also found that the emissions canister will have to move forward per it would go were the gas tank goes. I'm concerned it will be in the way of the transfer case, So I'll install it after the drivetrain. I added the engine mount plates and mounts, I've ordered a new CPS, then the engine can go in! I'm hoping to do so next weekend. Once the weight of the drivetrain is in I'll see how the nose sits and can address the sway-bar and trackbar.....

I removed the emmisions box, vent lines and fuel lines from the XJ. I also scored some JK take off shocks from a local garage. I'll take some pics when I install stuff tonight!

Did some more prep for the driveline to go in. I installed the brake master cylinder & proportioning valve, installed the brakelines making some new ones. The one for the rear just goes to the rear of the Jeep for now until rear axle time. I still seem to have plenty of front flex line so I didn't relocate my brake lines on the body. I then removed the stock fuel lines,vent lines, and dead brake lines including the broken looking rear weight sensitive brake valve for the rear axle. I then hotwired the fuel pump and pumped the gas out (8 gallons for the beater TJ!) and removed the gas tank. Next I'll run the XJ fuel lines and vent lines... I removed the rust from the XJ engine mount plates, detergent washed, alcoholed, and painted the mounts black... Almost ready to rock!

I'm in Winthrop Harbor, IL. That's the very top right corner of IL. Any further and your in Wisconsin or in Lake Michigan!

I installed my front axle and found the factory spring isolators are done. I added a spacer and a new isolator that came out of my TJ. Looks like I'll get a little less than two inches of lift. I'm trying to decide do I just go full length 2" add-a-leafs in the rear spring pack? Or get the mystery Chevy drop Shackles that no one can identify for certain? I'm thinking of adding this as a tag line :laughin: : What Year full size Chevy do I source 2" drop shackles for? 80's, 90'S, 2000's?

I plan to paint it... I'm thinking bigger if I'm going to do paint work. For example on my trail rig (Scrambler) I made my own heat-reduction hood and added a 64 Corvair fuel door for access to my battery switch. The bodyworks not the best...but it's a trail rig. I was painting over hand painted camo.... in process: From afar:

Those Cowl hoods are cool. Has anyone here just made one? Like added a scoop and got crazy with the fiberglass & bondo...

I'm really not into loosing bed space! As a alternative to bobbing my scrambler bed, I just shaved the bottom rear for better departure angle. The tube bumper in the pic is only used on-road. not really any rear 'bumper', but a custom hitch with plates to slide on on the frame and hitch rails ... I don't have a good digital picture but this gives you a idea... Rear:

Would a "Rocket 'Manche" shoot rockets like a Bond car... or be rocket powered?

Yes Updates! Need...Diesely...Goodness!!!!! :banana:

Pictures folks Pictures! Thanks for all the info...

I've never even thought to look for that panel. Just not worried about having extra switches. Besides, then I can wire them up to control something super secret like a starter disable or rocket launcher! :laughin:

I spent Friday attacking the XJ Axle and getting the wheel lug nuts free. Some were rusted on badly. The chrome caps poped off and I had a real fight to get the frozen nuts off. I also undid the locating arms, brakelines, steering arm, & trackbar. The sway bar links both broke. I removed the motor mounts and brakets, and the trackbar mount/bracket. Everything was so rusty it took about 7 hours. The XJ body looks ok, but the underside shows it lived here in the rustbelt where we salt our roads in winter. It's time for a few new wheels studs or just new unit bearings. Saturday, A friend and I attacked the MJ which is in much better shape and comes apart more easily. The only big issue was each jeep had a Lower control arm bolt frozen in the frame side. I ended up leaving them in and disconnecting at the axle instead. After much work the axles were free and getting draged accross the floor. We then fought the rubber bump stops that go inside the front springs. On a TJ these pop out and the's a nut to hold the mount or cup on. You have to remove the cup to add new spring isolators or spacers. On the 98 XJ these looked to be welded on. On the 88 MJ, we tried in vain to remove the rubber stop. We were torching the mount and found out you can twist and uncrew the entire cup and stop as one peice on a MJ. We then removed the bad isolator and added a spacer and a new isolator. Because the factory isolator was falling apart on one side we diched them, meaning I'll end up with a little over 1&1/2 inches of lift.... For the most part the Axle swap went well & my two wheel drive is now well on it's way to being a 4WD.... The MJ should be happy! The MJ also grew a lot! With the additional lift I'll need new Shocks and I'll have to lengthen or replace the stock size 2wd MJ swaybar links. I'm thinking I'll be looking for JK take-off shocks unless someon has a better idea.... What do you think?

Original Covering??? All I ever had was a bare metal wall! I've never even seen one covered.... Thanks for both your feedback, The pod is mounted that way so the speakers aim up rather than down. I'm leaving it mocked up awhile while I decide if I like it. In the mean time I'm working on other stuff. I mounted the engine computer like it was spaced on the XJ and started getting ready for the front Axle swap.

I worked with the rear XJ headliner speaker pod to see if it would fit on the back wall. It would need to be recovered and tweaked, but looks like it will work if I decide to go that way.... What do you think.

Thanks Pete, I plan to lift the front, put the new axle in the rear, and see how it sits to start with. What Year full size Chevy do I source the drop shackles for? 80's, 90'S, 2000's? A quick Google search looks like later model 90's or 2000's might look similar? but some shown are a different style. If someone has done this, I'd like to know the year they sourced shackles for.

2 inch Chevy Drop / MJ Lift shackle question: What Year full size Chevy do I source the drop shackles for? And do they come in different drops? I'm using 2 inch spring spacers to lift the front my 88' MJ (with 98' Cherokee suspension). After I put the rear 98' Chero axle in, I'll then need to add lift to level out the MJ. I'd actually be fine with the MJ sitting a bit higher in the rear. This will primarily be my daily driver so I'm looking to keep decent ride quality.

Have one person lie under or in front of (or under) the nose and with the engine off, have another turn from left to right and look for any slop or shifting. Have the person (or you) in front, listen for the clunk as well. sometimes when repalcing parts (like the track bar) the bolt hole it's self has become oval and allows the bolt to slop in the hole (even with a new trackbar) This can happen on the axle end. I found my new track bar bolt was smaller than the previouse one allowing some movement. Also make sure everything is torqed to specs on the locating arms etc. You could also have slop in a wheel bearing....

Hello, I'm planning on replacing my Hood as part of my 88' to 98' swap as my hood is cracked and sad. I'm keeping the stock style 88' front end, but using a Briarwood Grill. I'd like to find or build a cool hood that's not stock. Any Ideas? maybe someone's done vents or scoops, etc.? :dunno: I'm also considering changing the jeep too dark blue with a Waggoneer stripe. Here's what the existing hood / nose looks like, except I added a stripe up the middle.