GHayduke

Time to buy some floor pans! that's a tall Jeep son.

Anyone have suggestions on what Radiator I should get? I've heard a 95' or before vintage might fit better? Does anyone acually read this thread? :laughin:

I did do some firewall finishing this weekend. I finished the welding and then needed to finish some holes and gaps so I don't leak water through the firewall. I decided to use body filler (bondo) to fill the gaps as I don't have seam sealer. I sealed up the cluch holes and added the filler for the wiring harness....Way more welds than needed: Inside too: I will next sand the bondo down some and paint the firewall. I may POR15 the inside firewall with the floor as well:

So over the last week or so I haven't got as much done because I picked up another project jeep ($1800). I got a 97' TJ I want to use as a daily/summer driver until the Comanche is done. It has some good frame rot and a broken brake line. I'm welding in new SafetyCap frame sections in the rear. Then I'll have a driver for now. The TJ has 6 inches of lift & I plan to take the two inch spacers out so the 4inch shocks etc. work beter. I'll they use the two inch spring spacers in the Comanche (Cherokee) front end. I'll then just need to see what it takes to level the rear end after assembled. Maybe 2-3 inch Shackles? Pics below: Frame Section:

Wow do you know your wire sizes after that project! Thanks for the door striker info, now I'm eager to try it....

No, There are the two bolts (dowel pegs in manual) along the top of the firewall that the dash hands on until you put the other bolts in. They are on the two brackets that were on the light gray squares in photo below. After looking at it, here's how I plan to do it... before removing the brackets (including the pegs) I put black sharpee on the tops. I took a think wooden yard stick and put it flat (horizontal) over the tops of the bolts and touching the windshield, I then thumped it to make impressions. I then drilled out the holes and slid it over. Now when I reinstall the passenger mount, I can use the yardstick to locate it. I'll take a picture when I do this... I'm including a lot of pictures in my 88-98 swap build tread.

Thanks! I'm quite tired of the Spot weld drill! I welded in most of the firewall plate and the Steering wheel side dash mount this weekend but forgot to take pictures. I'll take some pics next time I work on it.

I used white paint as primer mostly, & only true primer is trouble areas to fill in scratches, etc. Orange peal is not bad but you need to learn to work with the paint. It can go on a little heavier than normal spraypaint. It looks Very thick but is actually thin if you try to wet sand it or buff it. As always, the better the prep but better the final finish... I didn't get too carried away with prep, just decent... my paint is too thin as I buffed it... that was a mistake, I want to add a coat.

I also started my firewall modification. I realized the steering colum hole and gas pedal mount bolts (spacing Is different) are actually fastened to a plate thats spot welded to the firewall. I decided to remove the XJ plate and move it to the MJ. I also cut out the oval main wireharness pass through to cover my square fuse box hole. I traced the new steering column hole and cut out the MJ firewall peice not needed. I'm using the brake booster to line up the new plates and confirm location. I couldn't get the spot weld (rosette) drill in to remove some of the firewall welds so I used a Plasma Cutter. The only issue with this is it will remove both layers of firewall... I suggest first removing the XJ peice (try not to bend it). I used a cut-off wheel in a grinder for the bottom cuts. The wiring cut out is shown too... Next I removed the MJ peice & removed the rust. Had to drill new holes for the gas pedal mount. Here are the two plates.... The plate is not aligned in the picture, I'll weld it in later when I do the dash brackets. And the wiring plate.

I worked on the dash and firewall this weekend, I also removed the old MJ computer bracket, and pulled up my carpet to check my floors which will get cleaned and coated in POR15. The gray areas clearly show where brackets were on both Jeeps. I Then removed the XJ dash mount brackets and trans computer/connector bracket from the firewall. I went through two Harbor Freight spot weld drill bits & should have bought more. I used old screw drivers as wedges to pop the brackets off, One the MJ its clear where spot welds are, on the XJ I sometimes missed one until I started prying and found additional welds. The Computer bracket was actually rivited on and srewed on with two fasteners each... Grinder time!

I've checked but never really seen this explained well. One guy started to do it, the just took it to the bodyshop :dunno: I don't know how you figure the location and line-up. I think once thats established I'd be tempted to mig weld it in place. Not the best plan but from what I've seen the B pillar is really tight inside and hard to access?? I plan to to put 98' Cherro doors on my 88' MJ if I can figure out the striker issue.

The next step will be to do my engine compartment while it's open! My Comanche was clearly red before it was white..... Rainbow of fruit flavors?

Yes that's what it is... from Blain's Farm & Fleet in Wi.- Tractor & Equipment "Transport Yellow" : View Larger Share on emailShare on facebookShare on pinterest_shareMore Sharing Services0 Valspar Aerosol Tractor & Implement PaintBlain # 257152 | Mfr # 18-5339-07-76 I'm thinking of changing the color this season to a richer / darker yellow... maybe "Cub Cadet" yellow. I've not had good luch with Krylon, I'm really more of a Rust'o'leum guy... But maybe I'll try it. - Thanks

I started removing the uneeded 88' steel firewall brakets with a spot weld drill. I drilled too deep in a spot or too. It really helps to drill a small pilot hole first. I Just need to remove the computer bracket and then I can start fitting the XJ steering bracket etc. Here's the MJ firewall pics: I started spot weld drilling the XJ steering bracket & dash dowel pin sheet metal bracket to remove it but didn't finish. I'm really tempted to break out the plasma cutter to speed up the process... this picture shows the bracket with just the pilot holes drilled in it.... I'm going back and forth on the Suspension plan. I had thought stock, followed by 3", then decided to just go spring-under in the rear and 4.5" lift up front. But in researching lift kits, I'm not seeing grand reviews on anything nice to my wallet.... So I'm not sure. I sold the 3" front springs cause it's cheaper to by a kit than peice it together with good shocks. Part of the issue is (this is my daily driver to work) with so little cab space, I plan to use a bed box to carry most things: If I lift the truck too high like my tow rig, I'll have to climb to the bed just to access the box... Fundage wise, I'm considering just finishing the swap at stock XJ hight for now so I can drive it.. then lifting it later. I'd just have to fugure out the rear axle pinion angle knowing it may get lifted.... Thoughts? I want my daily driver back!!

Thanks! That's my plan now after working on it last night (burn it in). I took one look at the firewalls and brake pedal assembly and wished I'd not asked the mounting question!! That's the risk of doing your research at lunch without being able to see the rig :doh: . Thanks for your feedback! The 98' brake booster seems like it will be a snug fit (I haven't done any firewall trimming yet but I heare you need too.) Any good ideas for lining up the passenger side dash dowel peg / mount? Here's a good pic of the brakepedal & bracket mounting:

Thanks for the info! I especially like " Installing the 1997+ XJ brake pedal assembly will give a good base for lining up the support bracket since they bolt to each other." Does the 97+ brake pedal assemblly bolt to a existing location (holes/studs) or is this a measure and fit based on the brake booster, etc? I plan to take another look at this tonight and see what I can accomplish....

You mentioned you've swapped doors in another post? Did you just replace doors or change from 80's style to 97'+ syple doors? I want to do this but don't know how to attack changing the door strikers / rear catch.... you're Manche' is Huge and looking good !

I've now removed both Dashboards and I'm getting ready to move the dash brackets, wiring, heater box, etc. I also got some nice seats in the boneyard out of a 01' Cherrokee Classic Limited. Nice Pleather, electric, heated seats complete with the wireing harness and the switches and switch panel to replace my stinky Chero ashtray! Bringing them home in my tow-rig (temp daily driver) I created some nice additonal " fresh air seating " ... well fresh air and diesel smoke that is :yes: (below)

Hi Guys, I'm working on a 88 to 98 swap including the interior. I've been reading all the builds to see how folks do the 98 dash mounting but everyone skips this. I plan to drill out the spot welds and move the 98 steel bracket (formed sheet metal behind alloy bracket) to the MJ, but how do I determin proper line-up on the emply MJ firewall? do you just try to measure from some common point? Do any points line-up? Next - How do I determine the location/line-up if the steering colume bracket, etc? I can guess these, but why reinvent the wheel (or dash swap) if someone has a good way to do this. Are any folks using shallow lag screws to mount the bracket to the body sides? I'm a good welder so that part is a non-issue. I'd like to get some folks feed back.. and then when I do it... I'll try to get good pictures to add to my thread for the next guys. Your feed back and tips would be greatly appreaciated! How did you do it & did it work out well?

Hello, I'm doing a 88 to 98 swap. The 98 Cherokee Classic donor's airbags deployed (luckily before I bought it). I don't plan to run airbags in the Comanche.... so a couple questions: I bought a replacement steering wheel airbag because the horn is part of it. I do want the horn to function. I don't plan on replacing the dash airbag. So what electronics if any will i need to retain to make the warning light Not be on? Can I not install the dash airbag and module under the center console & will the horn & dash be happy? Will I need to pull the fuse for the airbags? IF I Do decide to run airbags, do I need to replace the module under the center console? Thanks in advance...

I picked up a 96' dakota gas tank in good shape for $25. I'll see if I can make it work. Plastic tank so no rust.

I too have the reflective tailgate stickers, they look black by day or at night from a angle, then when headlights hit them they look silver/white. They are made from Saltwater Bouy vinyl.... The same place makes the MJ stickers as well. very happy with the product.

In the last week I finished pulling the dash wiring,computer & ducting and removed the doors for easy access. The bolts were a bit sticky after 25 years, a little heat helps a lot. I also finnished the engine and connected it to the trans and set those aside for more room. Next I'll pull the Chero doors and put the jeeps side by side to start pulling 98 dash and interior. I plan to move the wiring and heater / dash first. I currently think I've decided to not cut up the center console, but go back to single seats. I have the old seats & brackets, but I'd like to find heated leather seats. Any good ideas for bondyard seats? I don't have a final pic of the engine a together, but here's's one just before....

Lookin good

Thanks for the info guys, I currently think I'll go with 3" lift springs in the front, and 3" add-a-leafs in the rear (spring under). Then I'll adjust for level with Shackles if need be. I don't want to go over 3" per I want to replace as little suspension as possible right now.... but if setting up rear axle pinion angle, why not just do it once.... I'll see what I can find for fuel tanks, but some of the u-pull-it yards near me punch holes in the gas tanks to drain the fuel.... If I'm transfering the fuel sender and pump, could the Cherokee set-up be used with any dakota tanks? I wonder if the depth would work in a OBD1 style tank? Thoughts?