Eagle

Buckets

I'd say it's worth between $300 and $500. Most likely needs a CPS. That may (or may not) cause some funky symptoms before crapping out entirely. Other times, it runs perfect right up to the day it doesn't run at all. Could also have multiple problems. Not revving could mean a plugged catalytic converter.

MPG "gains"? That was a joke, yes? I suggest you contact Bob Salemi at . Bob has a stroker in his street XJ and a built stroker in his pro dragster MJ. He has done extensive dyno testing on the MJ engine, and he may have done some on the XJ motor as well. For the XJ (which came first), I know he went through several tries before finding the correct injectors. The stock Renix 19-pound injectors are definitely not adequate. IIRC he ultimately found that 22-pound or 24-pound squirters were about right. MPG gains. You're a real comic, you know that?

If the leak is at the flange, it is not where the rubber hoses clamp to the tubes, it is where tubes go through the flange itself. As Chico commented, you relly need to fill it up again and see where the leak is originating.

You're looking in the wrong place. The fuel pump/sending unit assembly mounts into the side of the tank through a round opening in the right side of the tank, slightly above the horizontal seam but definitely NOT on the top of the tank. To really inspect it you might need to drop the drive shaft, but you do not need to drop the tank. All you really need to do is pour in enough gasoline to start it dripping, and crawl under to see where it's coming from. I would be amazed if it was coming from the top of the tank. I've heard of that on XJs, but for some reason on MJs the fuel pump flange tubes seem to be much more vulnerable. You will not see a break. The two steel tubes are brazed or soldered into the flange, and it's the brazing or soldering that lets go. The gas seeps out around the perimeter of the two tubes. At least one person fixed it by drying it off, wire brushing around the tubes, and packing it with JB Weld.

No, he's not. He's talking about the fuel pump assembly in the call-out box at the upper left and lower left of the diagram. The two rubber fuel lines clamp into steel hard lines where they penetrate the fuel pump assembly mounting flange, and it's where those two steel lines go through the flange that the leak often develops.

The eliminator package was cosmetic. Cloth bucket seats, up-scale interior with center console, full gauges, "roll" bar in the bed, and stripes. The interior parts you can get, you might be able to find a "roll" bar in decent shape, but good luck finding the decals. The Eliminators were not necessarily 4WD. In fact, the first year of its existence the Eliminator was offered only in 2WD so you do not need to change to 4WD to make your truck a faux Eliminator.

Yeah, she means a real book. She'll be going to an area of her native country that doesn't see much tourism and she wants to do "the" book on the region.

Thankyouthankyouthankyouthankyou ... An instruction book. God is good!

Time is the issue (aside from money, which is also an issue). She leaves Monday, and she just sprung this "Maybe I'll do a book" thing on me. My wife is great on ideas and sudden bursts of initiative ... but she's rather short on follow-through. Obviously, at this point there is no book, there is no contract, and there is no publisher. So we have no idea what format or compression a hypothetical publisher might want, and because money is tight I don't feel we can afford to throw dollars we don't have into memory cards to store more pictures for a book that will most likely never get beyond the "I think I'd like to do a book" stage. On the other hand, she won't be able to go back and re-shoot unacceptable pictures if the book accidentally becomes a reality. Hence, I need to optimize the use of what the available equipment offers, and we don't have time to take test photos and then get them printed out to see what's acceptable and what's not. As to the old RTFM -- I wish that were possible, but the instruction manual is in Greek ... as well as being in Greece. (No, I'm not kidding. It's a long story.) It's a Minolta Dimage A1, 5 megapixel.

How would you like it if people responded to your MJ questions with non-answers because they disagree with your parameters? I understand your points very well, and I knew that a bigger memory card would offer a lot, but that's why I specifically asked how to optimize what we have. I need an answer to the question I asked.

What year MJ and what are the codes associated with those listings? And where did you get the listings? What you need to be aware of is that Chrysler seems to have recycled some codes that were originally used for XJs and MJs, either by AMC or just after the take-over, in newer vehicles. The result is that you request a build sheet from Chrysler and often you'll get codes for options that didn't even exist when your Jeep was built.

Thank you for taking the time to answer, but you completely ignored the parameters of the question.

Now that we have my wife's new monitor squared away ... she's leaving in a couple of days for a trip. She wants to take photos on the trip, with the idea of possibly doing a book about travel in the area where she'll be headed. The issue is how to maximize the number of digital photos she can store on the camera's memory card while maintaining sufficient resolution to produce acceptable prints when blown up to 8x10. The camera offers four resolutions. That much I can figure out -- more resolution = finer "grain" ==> better enlargements. But, larger file size. The camera also offers, for each resolution, a choice of "standard," "fine," or "extra fine." For the moment, I have the camera set for the highest resolution, and "standard" mode. I'm certain the resulting picture quality would be even better if I were to go to "fine" or "extra fine," but we don't want to get into multiple cards, fo a variety of reasons. So the name of the game is to make the best use of the 1GB card that's in the camera. Are we better off using the highest resolution and "standard" mode, or would the results be better (and number of photos stored greater) if we dropped the resolution one step and switch to "fine" mode?

And before the shock absorber piston bottoms out and the shock self-destructs.

Before you buy a new tank ... be sure the tank is the problem. I replaced the tank in my '87 SWB a couple of years ago. Drove to the gas station, filled up the tank, and saw gasoline streaming out from under the truck. The problem wasn't the tank at all. Where the hard gas lines go into the fuel pump mounting flange apparently is a vulnerable spot. The lines vibrate or something, and develop a hairline crack where they go through the flange. That's where the leak is often found.

Headlights 6014 Brake and front turn signal lights 1157 (the front should be 1157NA) Backup lights 1156.

That's not the issue. Read some of the other threads discussing this. The issue is that the auxiliary fan in the Renix years is controlled by a switch that mounts in the driver's side radiator tank. The '99 radiator will not have a bung for the switch to thread into, and the switch is MUCH too large to screw into the t-stat housing. Which means you will have to find an alternate way of controlling the auxiliary fan. It seems like most of the free world has decided that converting from the closed to the open cooling system is a "must do" project, yet they ignore the fact that it provides exactly zero additional cooling capability and creates problems that still have not been 100% resolved. IMHO it's a waste of time and effort.

90 was the last year for the mechanical speedo. He has a 91 -- he needs an electronic speedo.

Yeah. Start by learning the correct terminology for the year vehicle. I don't mean to be rude -- I'm trying to point out you're going to confuse yourself, and everyone you ask about this problem. The 90 Jeep 4.0L engine (as well as the 2.5L, in fact) is what is referred to as a Renix system. "Renix" is short for Renault-Bendix, because those two companies collaborated on the design of the system back when Renault had a major stake in AMC-Jeep. Your '90 is the last year of the Renix ignition/injection system. You do not have a PCM. You do not have an ECM. You have a crankshaft position sensor (which is universally referred to as the CPS), a camshaft position sensor (which is what you are referring to as the trigger wheel in the distributor, but unlike an older transistor ignition system this one doesn't generate the spark, it only tells the engine if each cylinder is on a compression stroke or an exhaust stroke), an ignition control module, and an ECU (Engine Control Unit). The ignition module does perform some functions, and if it goes bad (which is rare) it will result in no spark. ECU failure is very rare, but possible. By far the most prevalent cause of no starts, bad running/skips, and intermittent no starts is the CPS -- the crankshaft position sensor. Or the wiring for it -- the wire runs VERY close to the manifold, and if not properly routed can easily have the insulation burned off and short out on the manifold.

What year Jeep and what tranny? You have to be VERY careful what you use in the Jeep 5-speeds. The AX-15s (and probably also the AX-5s, although I have never seen anyone write about them) do NOT like any gear oil that has sulpher in it. The recommended factory stuff is only rated GL-3, because the higher ratings have more sulpher. The sulpher attacks the bronze in the synchronizers, and pretty soon you don't have synchronizers. If this stuff is the same as the fairly new (3+ years?) Pennzoil Synchromesh gear lube, I called Pennzoil when it first came out and asked them if it's good for Jeep trannies. They said it is formulated for the NVG3550 and 4500 trannies, and that it should NOT be used in the AX-15 or the BA 10/5. However, they declined to tell me just why, or to tell me what the formulation is. If I remember correctly, it carries no GL- rating whatsoever. I have three bottles of it on the shelf in the garage, but I don't dare use it.

5-1/4"

2-1/4" assuming you are asking about a 4.0L. It's 2-1/2" into the catalytic converter, and the connector from the cat to the muffler exits the cat as 2-1/2" then necks down to 2-1/4"

Look closer at your 87, 88 and 89. If they have an electric fan, the fan sensor is in the driver's side radiator tank, about halfway down. The temp sensor in the side of the block is for data input to the ECU and has nothing to do with the aux. fan.

His donor vehicle was an XJ. He found that the XJ chassis harness didn't mate up with the MJ chassis harness and he had to make a number of custom connections, as well as trace some circuits.