Eagle

Early 89's have the big C101 connector on the firewall in the engine compartment, directly ahead of the driver. This was eliminated in mid-89 and is not present in the 90 models. I think that's what the original question relates to. Get an engine harness from an '88 or early '89 and you should be good to go.

The MJ pedestals are the same for the bucket seats or the bench seat. You can take the pedestals off the bench and use them under XJ buckets. The only thing you won't have is the ability to adjust the passenger seat forward and back, so decide ahead of time where you want it to be and set the pedestal there before you put everything together.

Okay, guys -- SOMEBODY who has a running 2.5L with the stock distributor, please put the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and tell this man where the rotor is pointing. Better yet, take a photo. I would do it, but none of my 4-cylinder MJs is running at the moment.

So you moved the wires rather than reset the distributor? Doesn't the 4-cylinder have a camshaft position sensor in the distributor, like the 6-cylinder? If so, you may now have the spark out of synch with the cam position sensor.

Not sure what you mean by "phasing", I thought that at TDC the rotor should be lined up with #1 wire post on the cap since the computer takes care of all engine functions. Only in theory. In practice, all engine run with a bit of advance, meaning they fire the spark plug before the piston reaches TDC (top-dead-center) to allow for the air-fuel mix to start burning. The idea is to have the mix fully ignited so the flame front gets to the piston when the piston is at TDC. In order to build in some physical advance, the distributor is set up so that the tip of the rotor crosses the contact in the cap before the crank reaches TDC. It's hard to set that, so it's easier to set the timing mark on the harmonic damper to the TDC mark, and then align the distributor so the tip of the rotor is slightly beyond (in the direction of rotation) the contact in the cap. Are you certain your distributor is 180-degrees out? It shouldn't run like that -- that would make every cylinder fire when the piston is on the exhaust stroke. Jeep uses the term "indexing" the distributor, not "phasing." There is a TSB out for indexing the 6-cylinder distributor. I'm not aware of one for the 4-cylinder, but the concept would be the same.

There's a specific type of double-face tape made for the purpose. Any auto parts place should have it with the paint and body supplies. It's cleverly called "molding & emblem tape."

Luks (Luchs?) made the factory clutches. DO NOT have the flywheel resurfaced. The FSM specifically warns not to do so. If you do, you will ALWAYS have clutch problems.

The "trail" kit I bought is the wing nut type. That's the one that only works when clamped in a bench vise, and I don't carry a bench vise on the trail. I don't think that type is worth $4.99, let alone $49. Anyone who is in the market for this type of tool, spend the extra money to get the KD tool I listed. Don't get their other one, that's a wing nut kit, too. The KD 2190 works -- first time, every time. Time for a search and clear fire mission in the garage.

The bottle you got is defective. The one in my '88 MJ seems to be the factory original and it doesn't leak (yet), nor does it "pop" over the threads when I tighten it. They are plastic, and over-tightening will cause the threads to skip. But it should not require a gorilla grip to tighten it enough to hold pressure. As posted above, half-full (when cold) is correct. It's a pressure bottle/expansion tank. There is NO overflow, so the air volume is to allow for expansion of the coolant. If you topped it off, that's your problem. NEVER loosen that cap when the system is hot. That cap is your radiator cap. I assume you'd like to keep your hands? Boiling glycol is not kind to human skin.

There is no check engine light on an '88 MJ, and the Renix ECU doesn't store codes. The brake warning light has nothing to do with the ECU, it is controlled directly by the plunger switch on the metering block. Your '90 is the same.

Keep in mind that the factory typically lists each speedo gear for two or three tire sizes, so they usually aren't exact. My wife's 2000 XJ is absolutely stock, but the speedo reads 2 MPH fast at around 40 MPH, which translates to a 5% error. I've checked that multiple times going through those police radar trailers they like to use around here. Okay, you need a 32-tooth but you can only get a 33. The gear we replace is the driven gear. 32 teeth *should* be one revolution but yours needs 33, so it will read slower than actual speed by 1/32, which is approximately 3 percent. In other words, when you have gone 33 miles your odometer will only show 32. When you're driving 33 MPH your speedo will show 32. At 66 MPH your speedo will show 64. That's actually closer than my wife's XJ, but in the other direction, so you should keep the needle pretty close to the posted limit to avoid tickets. I always prefer to have the speedo read a bit fast rather than a bit slow.

There is no difference between "Cherokee" brackets and "Comanche" brackets. Keystone Automotive used to offer XJ/MJ tow hook brackets. They were near duplicates of the originals, except that don't have the second set of holes to set the brackets forward 4" for the hidden winch option -- which nobody ever uses, so you'll never miss it. If you dig deep, a LOT of the after-market body parts places have these same brackets, and they're CHEAP.

Update: I found the tool ==> it's a KD Tools number KD 2190 Double Flare Kit. Problem is, it lists for $115 and the cheapest I've found on the Internet is $70.99. It's a great tool so if I have to spend that much to replace it, I will. But ... does anyone know of a cheaper place to buy it?

In replacing the hard lines from the front metering block back to the rear axle, I had to cut down stock lengths of tubing twice and re-flare to make lengths that would fit neatly and look right. I couldn't find my good double flare kit, and the cheapie Harbor Freight set I had really didn't want to hold onto the tubing. The tube kept slipping out rather than bulging to make the first part of the double flare. I finally had to clamp the clamping bar in a bench vise to get it to hold tight enough. I guess I need to replace my good tool set. Problem is where to get it. I vaguely recall that it had a star wheel type of handle but beyond that I don't remember a lot. Back several months ago, there was some discussion about making double flares and someone posted a picture of the exact tool I had. If anyone remembers that thread, or knows where to find that tool -- please give me a link. Thanks.

What year? The Renix CPS operates on a different principal that the Mopar CPS, and the test procedure is different.

Stealing the idea is one thing. Making it work is another ...

Dunno. I hever felt any reason to try that. After experiencing the losses created by a freer-flowing exhaust, I decided the factory engineers did a decent job optimizing the system and I have used OEM replacement parts ever since. Besides, the OEM repacement mufflers from AutoZone carry a lifetime warranty. Unless in a moment of temporary insanity I decide to try another turbo muffler, I won't be buying any more mufflers for as long as I own the two MJs and the XJ for which I have paid once.

The light came on because I lost the rear brakes. That part is no mystery, and it did what it is supposed to do. The mystery is why it doesn't reset now that I replaced all the lines and bled the brakes. It isn't the parking brake peddle -- I still have to replace a siezed cable, so I am exceedingly careful not to apply the peddle. I'm hoping if I crack a front bleeder and stomp on the peddle it may move the shuttle valve the other way. Can't think of anything else to try.

BRAKES ARE A WONDERFUL THING! My brother came over and we bled the MJ, and it now has good peddle and 4-wheel brakes. It hasn't stopped this well for at least a couple of years. But ... ... I now have a constant brake system warning light. I thought the light was supposed to reset automatically when you fixed whatever problem there might have been, and bled the brakes. I've bled the brakes on the MJ before, and lost the rear brakes on the XJ and repaired and rebled, and I've never before encountered a stuck brake warning light. Anyone have any good ideas how to get it to reset?

You are describing a typical "cat back" system. That's what I had on my '88 Cherokee. That's the setup I grew to hate and had a mini celebration when it rusted out so I could justify going back to the stock 2-1/4" system. Loss of low-end torque, reduced driveability, loss of 2 to 4 MPG fuel economy ... but it sounded great. Keep in mind that stock is not 2-1/4" in front of the cat. The exhaust pipe (or "down pipe") is 2-1/2" and the stock cat has a 2-1/2" core. The cat outlet necks down to 2-1/4" between the cat and the muffler. So by installing a 2-1/2" cat back system you end up running a 2-1/2" system from the manifold to the end of the tailpipe.

Did Dr. Spock advocate against spankings? My mother read Dr. Spock and cited his advice frequently. She also spanked us if we messed up. And I don't mean with her hand -- she went to the closet and got one of my father's leather belts. And, no, I never called the cops and tried to claim abuse. It wasn't "abuse" -- the correct and appropriate name for it was then and should be now "punishment."

I can't figure out if you plan to use an automatic shifter, or a 5-speed shifter. Your initial post sais you want it to look like a standard transmission, but then later on you seem to be talking about modifying an automatic floor shifter. The idea of modifying a 5-speed to control an AW-4 does sound pretty cool. I see no point at all to messing with the automatic shifter when all you really need is a toggle switch to override the torque converter lockup.

I have considered using an XJ proportioning valve. But if that's such a good thing, then why are all the XJ guys taking their proportioning valves apart and removing the spring and O-ring to improve the rear brakes? My '88 XJ has zero rear brakes right now. It has great peddle -- but I tested it on ice during the winter. Coasting down the driveway, I opened the door, leaned out so I could see the wheels, and stomped on the brakes. The fronts locked up and the rear wheels kept right on turning. So I think I'll be happier just doing the bypass on the MJ. I haven't decided yet what to do for the XJ, but I think I'll probably do like everyone else and gut the stock proportioning valve. You don't have to do that with the MJ. Just re-route the lines and "bypass the bypass" and you're done.

I just did the bypass today, too. The rear height-sensing valve was blown out, so I had no rear brakes. I ripped out both lines, except for a new section I had spliced in a couple of years ago in the gas tank area. I plugged the bypass port on the front metering block with a cut-off bolt. Put an O-ring on the bolt, plus a blob of silicone on the nose, so I think the port is pretty effectively closed off. The hard part was snaking a new line down from the metering block. I like to work neat, and to come even close to the original configuration with everything else in place just wasn't going to happen. I finally got it looking semi-presentable, and it doesn't appear to be rubbing against any moving parts, so I think I'm good to go. Got the air box back in, my brother came over to help me bleed the brakes, and just as he's starting to get a peddle -- POP!. There was just ONE section of original line left, not more than a foot long, from the rear hose forward to tie into the section I had previously replaced. Naturally, it blew. So l'il brother went home. I got the old piece out and a new length of line put in, so all should be good to go. If it isn't raining tomorrow afternoon, we'll try bleeding again and hope for the best. It's going to be NICE to have brakes again.

I once had a 'Yota pickup, an old 4-cyl beater. I guess the filter gasket isn't "captive" in whatever filters I was using at the time. I changed the oil one day, and about a week later (when towing a friend's sailboat for him, naturally) the filter (or so I thought) exploded and dumped all the oil on the road at a traffic light. Turns out, when I took off the filter there were two gaskets -- the old one had stuck to the housing rather than come off with the filter, and I didn't notice it when I screwed the new one on. When the engine got good and hot from the towing, the gaskets softened up enough that the interface between the two of them couldn't hold the pressure.