Eagle

No, the Chinese junk is crazy cheap. I've seen cheap Chinese tie rod ends last less than a year. Do the math.

Not in 1994. Chrysler standardized on 4.10s for ALL 2.5L Cherokees.

MJ u-bolts are not 9/16". They are 14mm, which is smaller than 9/16". And XJ u-bolts are not 1/2", they are 12mm ... which is smaller than 1/2". Since I mess around with both XJ and MJs, I went to a local spring shop and had a bunch of new 1/2" u-bolts made up, and I'll use them for both XJs and MJs. A new, high-tensile 1/2" u-bolt has to be as good as a rusty, 20-year old 14mm u-bolt, IMHO. And with all the hard-core wheeling I've seen XJs put through, I have never EVER seen a 12mm u-bolt fail, so I feel completely comfortable using 1/2" u-bolts in my MJs as well as in my XJs. 9/16" = .5625 14mm = .5512

Those Mopar perches are EXTREMELY beefy ... and that $18 (or so) price is for the pair, not per each. You'll pay $40 and up to the aftermarket suppliers and what you get for $40 won't be as good as the Mopar units. But ... with reasonable care, it should be easy to grind off the welds and reuse the original perches.

They aren't the same. If you could set a "first generation" hub next to a "second generation" hub, off the vehicle, you'd see the difference instantly. Ditto the early rotors next to the composite rotors.

Not unless you also change knuckles and hubs. Read my post immediately above yours.

As noted, Chrysler went back to one-piece rotors in mid-1999, not 1996. I've posted the run-down before, but here it is again. As before, this is from a book I am writing and it is copyrighted. By posting it here I do NOT grant anyone permission to copy it elsewhere, post it elsewhere, or in any way give or send it to anyone else. It is important to ensure that you have matching knuckles, hubs, rotors AND calipers. Mix and match, and the calipers may sit off-center on the rotors and cause all manner of problems.

Several years back, I had one of those carbs rebuilt by "Mr. Carburetor," a local shop that specialized in tuning carburetors back in the heyday of the muscle cars, and stayed in business servicing the street rod crowd. He got mine running, but he strongly advised scrapping it and going to a conventional, non-computer carburetor from someplace like Summit Racing. Something in the 350 to 400 CFM range would probably be about right. Mr. Carburetor said the OEM carb on the 2.8Ls was junk. I have no reason to doubt him -- haven't yet heard of one that runs/ran well.

Looks nice -- for a Dodge. Having owned four of the original 2-seat AMXs (as well as several of the original style Javelins) I have to say that thing doesn't look even a little bit like an AMX.

What engine is this for, a 2.5L or 2.8L? And what cable are you talking about removing? I thought those carbs had electric chokes. If so, they use a small resistance unit to generate heat to gradually disengage the choke.

In the interests of pedantry, while the above advice is all pretty much spot on, I would like to point out that the length of the track bar and the amount of lift do not in any way affect the track width (reference the title of this thread) ... which is the distance between the front wheels. Your track width has not changed, but your axle has been pulled off-center.

You should NOT have the engine running when you remove the temp sensor to burp the system. Park with the nose pointing downhill, so any air pockets will migrate to the highest point -- which will (hopefully) be that rear corner of the block. Then fill until coolant comes out of the hole, and then replace the sensor. Personally, I don't do it that way. I let it heat up with the cap off the tank, until the coolant in the surge tank boils, then immediately shut off the engine and wait. After about a minute or two, as the system cools it'll start sucking coolant out of the bottle back into the system. After it stops sucking, restart the engine and repeat. Usually takes three to five cycles to purge most of the air.

I thought 99 was a transition year...I seem to remember you mentioning that in a post awhile back. When I bought new rotors for the 99, O'reillys had two different rotors for it. They looked like they were one-piece cast to me. :dunno: Personally, I was avoiding getting an 00 or 01 to avoid the coilpacks and LP D30, but that's me. I think '99 was a transition year, which is why I'm avoiding it because I could expend a lot of time and energy looking at '99s I wouldn't buy because of the brakes. I'm looking for a street Jeep, daily driver, not a trail machine. The low pinion front axle doesn't bother me at all for the purpose intended. And I have no problem at all with the coilpacks -- they're more efficient than a distributor.

He said 185 :hmm: My bad. I'll blame it on the monitor at work. IMHO even a 185 is a mistake, but nowhere near as serious as a 165. It's important to remember that the purpose of a thermostat in an automobile is to keep the temperature UP. If your cooling system isn't capable of keeping the temperature down to 195, how's it going to keep it down to 185?

AFAIK the 99 XJ still used the composite rotors. I don't feel like replacing brake rotors every three months. Been there, done that with a '99 Grand Cherokee. Not doin' it again. Sinkrun -- where is Rimersburg, PA? Eastern or western part of the state?

The 165 degree thermostat is a SERIOUS mistake. That won't let the engine get warm enough for the ECU to enter closed loop mode. Your gas mileage is going to be lousy and if you have emissions testing ... it probably won't pass. The stock thermostat is 195 degrees and it's purpose is to keep the termperature UP high enough for the engine to operate efficiently. Running a colder thermostat is never a good idea.

Keep in mind that Jeep has used many bolt patterns. The Cherokee and Comanche use a 5 x 4-1/2" bolt pattern. For 2000 and 2001, the Cherokee Classic and Limited (and some Liberty models) had 16" rims with the 5 x 4-1/2" pattern. The newer WJ series Grand Cherokees had 17" rims available, but the bolt circle is 5 x 5" so they won't fit a Comanche. Same for the JK Wranglers -- different bolt circle.

Or at least improbable. After reading more and more about Toyota's problems, talking with my friend who is a VW dealer's shop foreman, and exchanging some e-mails with an e-friend who is a retired automotive engineer (who has NOTHING good to say about drive-by-wire), I have decided that I need to stockpile a couple of "newer" old vehicles while I still have a shot at finding them. Since my wife and I each have a 2000 Cherokee, with a granddaughter about to come on line as a driver I'd like to pick up another 2000 or 2001 XJ, to replace "Old Faithful" (my trusty but aging 1988 XJ). I'm limiting the search to 2000 and 2001 because those are the two years that did not use the crappy composite rotors on the front brakes, and because a 2000 or 2001 will be pretty much parts interchangeable with our other two XJs. I'm looking for an automatic with Selec-Trac (the NP242 transfer case). The Selec-Trac is a must -- I want to be able to put it into full-time when the first snow flies and leave it there for the duration for the ladies. A Classic or Limited with the overhead console would be nice, but I'd consider a nice, clean Sport if I can't find one with the console. I don't want any "projects" -- this is going to be a daily driver for my granddaughter. I want a clean, straight, rust-free Jeep. I am in Connecticut but I'm willing to buy from a radius of at least a couple or few states if the right vehicle shows up and the right price. I also don't want high mileage. We're talking ten years old, so at an average of 12,000 per year I guess 120,000 is about the upper limit, and I'd prefer less if possible. Also looking for a 1991 or 1992 shortbed Comanche in decent shape. Again, I'm looking for rust-free (or nearly so) and straight. This will also be for a daily (or weekly) driver, not for a "project," so no heaps need apply. (I have enough of those already.) If anyone knows of anything, please let me know ASAP. Thanks

Good luck finding a front axle with 4.56 gears. IMHO the search is a waste of time. Better to just buy a new set of gears and have your axle re-geared. Toss in a TrueTrac limited slip while it's open, since you'll probably have to swap carriers anyway.

I agree with mvusse, VERIFYING the front axle ratio before buying the replacement rear axle would be prudent. The ratio numbers ARE stamped into the edge of the ring gear, and can be read by removing the front diff cover. The front axle isn't broken, so you can rotate the ring gear to find the numbers. Chances are, though, it's going to be 3.07, because that is the only ratio that came from the factory with the 6-cylinder 5-speed. Sure swapping the front over to 3.55 might be nicer, but unless you are running tires MUCH larger than stock you'll be fine with 3.07s. I've wheeled my '88 Cherokee all over the northeast on 30" tires with the stock 3.07 gears, and my '87 MJ still has the 3.07 gears and is rolling on 30" tires. It's fine. Would 3.55s be better? Absolutely. If I were in your situation, would I switch both axles to get 3.55s when I could just replace the rear axle and drive? Nope. The difference is so slight that it really doesn't make sense to create three times as much work as necessary. (Yes, I said three times. Swapping a front axle is more work than swapping a rear.)

The only reason I can think of for changing is that IF you are changing from an internal slave to a 94+ external slave, when you buy the 94+ parts the new master, slave and connecting line come all together as an assembly, pre-filled and pre-bled. As to functionality, I seriously doubt there is any difference.

It also has 6-bolt hubs. Oh, wait ... '87? Are we talking XJ (baby) Wagoneer, or (full-size) Grand Wagoneer?

It will be MUCH easier to find a Cherokee axle, and cutting off the spring perches and welding them back on in the correct location for use in the MJ is pretty simple, especially when you have the old axle to use as a pattern.

Most likely leaking injectors.

What tee are you referring to in the rear? It sounds like you still have the rear height sensing valve installed. There is a special bleeding procedure if you have that valve, which has been posted here a couple of times. If you still have the rear height sensing valve, you MUST follow that procedure. Also, if you still have the rear height sensing valve, I hope you replaced both lines to the rear, and I hope you didn't get them crossed or your brakes may not work correctly.