Eagle

So it's NOT stock, and it's broken to the point it can't be driven. $750. $3,000 is so ridiculous it's not even worth discussing.

First, pull your drive shaft and grease the slip splines where the yoke goes into the transfer case. See if that helps. I keep reading that, But isn't that only for newer model Xj's that have the external yoke with the boot? Doesnt my tranny fluid lube my yoke? Good point. I had that clunk symptom with a '99 WJ and lubing the splines helped, but you're correct -- that was the new style, external slip yoke.

Since you have a 3" lift in the front, I would recommend the 3" lift springs for the rear. Metric tone springs should restore the back of your truck to stock height, which will look like a California rake with a 3" lift in the front.

The 87 - 90 Jeep parts book shows three valve springs for the 2.5L. One is unique to the 1987, the second refers to valves marked #15, 19, 20, 60 ... The third is part number 3300 4296, which is the same valve spring listed for the 4.0L. It is described as 2 inches long. Considering that 4.0Ls often run for 300,000 miles or longer, I don't think I'd be messing around with non-standard valve springs.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Stiffer valve springs usually call for dual springs to avoid valve bounce and spring harmonics. The inner spring acts as a damper.

Of course it is not the same thing. All MJ's ARE Comanches where as you state all Wranglers are not TJ's. You can use TJ to refers to a 2006 Wrangler but not a 1995 or 2014 Wrangler. You can use MJ & Comanche interchangeably for the entire produced took run. Conversely, All MJs are Comanches and all XJs are Cherokees. But ... not all Cherokees are XJs. Aside from the fact that we now have a new ... something ... bearing the name Cherokee, for export purposes the vehicle we know as the Liberty has always been called the Cherokee. (Yes, I've seen them with my own eyes, in my wife's native country.) However, what you wrote was He might indeed, but since all TJs are Wranglers, how could there be any confusion? On the other hand, if someone writes "Wrangler," it could be a YJ or a TJ or ...

Yes, the bypass for the height sensing valve has been discussed in detail multiple times. It may take a bit of sleuthing, but look around and you'll find multiple threads, some with photos.

??? Isn't that sort of like saying "You might be using MJ when you mean Comanche?" All TJs are Wranglers, but not all Wranglers are TJs.

First, pull your drive shaft and grease the slip splines where the yoke goes into the transfer case. See if that helps.

I agree with benji_26. The MJ is supposed to have some rake when empty in the back. Unless you measure front and rear by the factory method, you don't really know how yours compares to factory specs. Be sure to measure both sides and average the result, front and rear. If one corner is way off from the opposite side, look for a broken leaf.

Good point -- especially since the manifold is under vacuum, not pressure.

Do you have any idea of the history of the vehicle? Do you know if it has a security system? Seems to me I recall several years ago, possibly on the NAXJA forum, a discussion started by a guy in Sweden (or Iceland?) who had the same problem. I don't recall if it was ever resolved. It's not as simple as a ballast resistor for the fuel pump, is it? I have a 2000 XJ but I don't know if they use the ballast resistor. If so, there's a bypass circuit to allow full power to the pump for starting, then after the key returned to the RUN position the current is routed through the ballast resistor. If the resistor is bad, it'll start on the bypass circuit and then die on the RUN circuit.

Not sure, but I don't think bearing grease is appropriate. Vaseline is what I have always seen recommended for injector O-rings.

Too easy. Makes too much sense. Yet they killed the 4.0L engine in favor of using a universal, cross-platform V6 engine. Sheesh.. And I'm surprised to see in Hornbrod's chart that after moving the Libby to 5x5, they went back to 5x4.5 for the Patriot/Compass (but, of course, they had to use a different center hub diameter).

What do you mean by "most other Jeep models"? Jeep has used a lot of different bolt patterns over the years. The CJs had a 5-on-5-1/2 pattern, IIRC. The old Grand Wagoneers and J-trucks had a 6-bolt pattern. The XJ, MJ, YJ, TJ and the Liberty were all 5-on-4-1/2. The WJ Grand Cherokee (beginning in 1999) went to 5-on-5, I believe. I have no idea what any of the current Jeep offerings are, but I doubt they are the same as the XJ and MJ.

I've always read that people who convert to the one-piece shaft remove the seal at the CAD and install a seal at the diff housing -- where there isn't one from the factory with the CAD. Some have found a seal that fits there (possibly the NAPA part number you cited) and others reported that they had to modify the diff housing to accept a seal at that point.

I haven't checked the respective wiring diagrams, but in the years when there was a Wagoneer model of the XJ, the Wagoneers had all-red taillights and functioned like the MJ. The only difference I could find was in the tailight harness at the back, from a connector somewhere over the left wheelwell to the tailights. So the trick would be to compare the wiring of the XJ Wagoneer to that of the MJ.

FIFY

I'm seriously considering doing exactly that. Either that, or installing four cheap amber fog lights and a separate switch and flasher to create my own hazard warning system. The problem with the MJ setup is that the brake lights override the hazard flasher. Since they share the same bulbs in the rear, if you step on the brake when the flashers are on, they stop flashing. That, IMHO, is a stupid arrangement. It's especially stupid because they could easily have set up the Comanche the same way they did the Cherokee -- and, in fact they did -- for Europe, where it's required.

They are not even close to being the same size and shape. It would be far easier to do as the OP did here, start with flat acrylic and use a heat gun to bend it to shape.

There are no changes needed to the wiring. At the cluster, it's plug-n-play. Your oil pressure sender and your engine temperature sender are simple on/off switches. You will have to replace those two senders with the ones for use with gauges.

If you get a cluster from a 4.0L you won't need to reset the tach -- six cylinders is six cylinders, and the tach doesn't care if the engine is a V6 or an I6. What you need to be aware of is that Jeep changed the way the speedo cable attaches to the speedo head, either between the 1986 and 1987 model years or midway through the 1987 model year. The old ones have a metal clip at the top end of the cable that's held onto the speedo head with a screw. The later ones (basically 88 thru 90) have a white nylon retainer that you just squeeze to release. You can use either, but if you use the late version you'll need to also replace the speedo cable.

It doesn't go to the block, it goes to the exhaust manifold. The purpose is to draw heated air over the manifold while the engine is warming up. There is (or should be) a thermostatic damper at the point where that hose enters the air box. Can you get by without it? Most likely, yes. Most of them crumble and collapse after ten or fifteen years anyway.

But there weren't there to combat death wobble. They were there to prevent (or to alleviate) steering wheel "kick back" in off-road situations where the terrain grabs the front wheels.

Nicely done. Where did you buy the checkered plastic, what kind of plastic (acrylic?), and how did you bend it to fit? Keep in mind that on the European versions the amber is for turn signals and hazard flashers. Our U.S. trucks are wired so that both bulbs operate as dual filamant brake & turn lights. I think the european arrangement is better, and it's what Jeep used on the Cherokee so I don't know why they went retro on the American MJs.