dragonrider477

ok guys.the white letters in or out poll was at about 50-50.how about buckets or bench?

yes,i have seen this too many times. i think they do this to piss you off.it's happened to me enough times.i always look at how close they are parked to your car and how long the doors are. if it looks like the door on full swing could hit my car,i check my car for damage.

i always park where there are no cars. the exercise from the walking can't hurt and my vehicles are'nt damaged by the idiots that can't drive.plus i get to admire my mj as i approach it!

went to johnson city salvage on w. market st. last week.they let you browse their aluminum scrap area(huge!).just pile what you want on the scale and pay 1.15 a lb.scored some brand new aluminum diamond plate sheets in various sizes and some other new aluminum stuff for some future projects.while i was there a flatbed truck unloaded hundreds of oe alloy rims that were taken off junked cars.i am sure if you needed a wheel or a whole set you could have found them there.the people that work there are friendly and the girls that work in the office are slammin hot! it's like a candy store for anything you would ever need for your projects.i am going back this week to snoop around some more and maybe get some pics.if you go there bring your truck and some gloves.it would'nt hurt to bring the guys some coffee and donuts to "grease the wheels". when i was there last week i gave the scale guy a 5 buck tip.

like stated in a previous post,usps is king.i sell a lot of stuff on ebay and have had great results with priority mail.all you need is tape for the boxes. the post office provides free high quality boxes in many sizes,free self adhesive shipping labels,and free priority self sealing envelopes.ship time is very fast. usually 3-5 days.they also provide flat rate boxes in a few different sizes that ship for a flat fee no matter where in the usa they go and no weight limit. whatever you can jam in the box at one set fee.way cool.i think its like 8-9 bucks.its also easy to calculate exact shipping to the penny with their online calculator.it is very accurate.bigger stuff is a pain and i usually won't sell stuff that is hard to pack/ship.greyhound is a great way to ship bulky stuff.i once shipped a car bumper from pa to upstate ny.it came in a matter of hours and cost 40.00 to ship.

i have used the ebay cheapies with good results.buy the "better" cheap one.usually 100-125 bucks.easy to do. take some digital pics as you go along so you can use them as a guide to reassemble the truck properly.spray all the bolts with your favorite penetrant (i like pb blaster myself) and let them soak overnight before you attempt the job.i believe you will need sae size tools for most of the fasteners.be careful with the brittle/old/oily sensor connectors when you access them.check your wiring and clean up anything that looks bad while you're in there.

works for me.

try a different battery or try your battery in a different car.see if the problem follows the battery.if so,a trip to the parts store for a new battery is in order.

1988 mj 4x2 long box,4.0,5 speed,3.55 with correct speedo gear and gps verified,205 75 15 tires,bedliner and cap,750 mile road trip from ny to tn ave speed 70 mph,23.5 mpg for trip.

well,here goes,could be any one or a combination.bad o2 sensor or wiring problem,bad or insufficient sensor grounds,bad egr or control system for it,fuel pressure regulator bad,leaking injectors,map sensor bad or vacuum supply to sensor compromised,wicked plugged air filter,wicked dirty throttle body/intake,valve timing off(timing chain jumped or just worn badly),bad computer,coolant sensor bad or just a little bad and lying to the ecm,too cold thermostat(engine running too cold,computer never takes it "off the choke" and is rich),manifold air density sensor problems.this is only a partial list.i am sure other posters on this site will come up with more.if the thing runs good and idles good and you did not want to pay a shop $$$$$ to test it i would take a stab at changing the o2 sensor.the high co readings point to an out of control feedback fuel system which will also raise the hc's.if it was a leaking intake gasket the hc's would be off the scale and the co would be low.the o2 sensor is the main component the ecm uses to control fuel trim with the map sensor a close second.map sensors are much more reliable than the o2's hence the suggestion to change it (the o2)first.good luck.

x2 on checking the fuel pressure.also,see if it will run on starting fluid.if it does suspect weak/no fuel pressure.all 4 cyl saturns have a timing chain,not belt.and yes,the chains do woof on these cars with high mileage.

wowie kowie batman!!!!that thing should be listed as ""parts/salvage vehicles for sale" on flea bay!!! if rust had value,that mj would be worth more than a winning lotto ticket.

re: flea bay manche plow truck.it states in the auction that previous buyer backed out on the deal. why didnt seller send second chance offers to the runner up bidders and sell it to one of them?something smells about this deal.the winning bidder probably inspected the vehicle in person after winning it and ran away when he looked at it up close.

my speedometer cable also broke when i pulled my cluster out to swap in the guage cluster.it separated where the cable housing slides into the end that clips into the back of the speedometer.my cheapness said "no new part needed here".i took some 99 cent on sale harbor freight 2 part epoxy and repaired it.works fine.there are only like 2 or 3 harbor freight retail stores in the whole state of tn. i am blessed with one of these stores only 15 min. from my house.

unhook the battery.readjust the stop screw to where it was in the beginning.leave the battery unhooked 1/2 hour to baseline the ecm. rehook the battery and start it.idle should go back to normal.

you can never be too anal about packaging.i have sold hundreds of items on ebay and can only remember 1 or 2 items that got damaged. i try to make my packages "bomb proof".yes,it takes longer and yes it is a pain in the *ss but it is worth it. my kid used to work for ups when he was in school and he said never mark anything "fragile" or "handle with care". these items so labelled become the warehouse "footballs" for the shipping morons.

i am curious who has the mj with the most recorded miles on the clock(verifiable)and who has the lowest?

the 01 1500 chev that i had was prewired for the brake controler.under the dash there was a plug for it.i had to get an adaptor harness(10 bucks on ebay) to link the factory wiring to the brake controler.most of the domestic companies have gone this route as they don't want you hacking into the wiring under the dash and possibly mess us computer or air bag wiring.makes it much simpler imho.

wow!!thats not even a decent tree.looks rather cheesy to me .that's a poor form of male birth control. condoms or a vasectomy are a better choice! and probably don't hurt as much either.

wow,i can't believe that va is so strict on emissions for a 22 year old vehicle!!!what happens if you keep failing the test?will they give you a waiver?or do you just junk an otherwise perfectly usable vehicle? we have no safety or emission testing in e. tennessee for any year vehicle.even money grubbing ny where i used to live only tested obd-II(96 and newer)vehicles and if your truck was diesel or over 8600 lbs. gvw you only got the safety insp.anything 85 or older was not tested.ny did check the older cars for tampering so you still could flunk if your cat or other emission device was removed or disconnected.the new stuff (96 and newer)is tested by plugging the car into a "state approved" scanner and the data is downloaded to the state through the modem on the unit.there is no tailpipe test anymore. it is all done through the computer. if your car fails emissions and you can't fix it the state will give you a waiver after you prove you spent a minimum of 450 dollars in an attempt to get the car to pass. the waiver is only good for one year.at your next inspection,you either have to fix it right or junk the car.the state will only issue one waiver to any one car in it's lifetime.

whats the big deal?how often do you need to change plugs on a modern fuel injected engine that burns unleaded fuel?throw a set of double platnium or iridium in it,slam the hood and don't touch them again till the motor blows.the plugs will out last the engine most likely.now wires are a different story.i change the ones on my vehicles every couple of years if there bad or not.old wires develop high resistance and can smoke coils and ignition modules due to the higher amprege required to switch the coil off and on with the old wires.just don't use bargain wires. you get what you pay for. i have always used belden premium and as long as you keep your receipt you'll never have to pay for the wires again.when you are ready for a new set,bring them in to napa and they will swap you a new set for free.(lifetime warranty).

over the years i have probably installed a bazillion tire plugs in customers tires.my honest opinion is that a plug properly installed in a round puncture(nail or screw)in the main tread of the will usually work ok.where the problem comes in is when idiots put plugs in tires that should'nt be repaired(sidewalls or large cuts where they just keep stuffing plugs in the gash till the air stops leaking out).also,a woman customer in a minivan full of kids rolled in to our shop on a soft tire one day and said her husband had plugged it for her yesterday but it still was leaking.when we took the tire off the rim it was full of handfuls of black grindings from being driven flat before her hubby fixed it. in addition,the nail that he pulled out of the tire had almost sliced a hole in the inside sidewall when the pointed end of it rubbed the tire.none of this was apparant to him as he just stuffed in a plug from the outside.she was heading out of town to drop her kids off at a summer camp about 70 miles away.thank goodness that tire decided to leak before she got on the highway. it surely would have put her,her children,and anyone else on the highway in jeopardy when it failed at 70 mph on the interstate. plugs do work but so do lawyers.any shop owner should think twice before using them.if you as a private person choose to use plugs i see no problem.unfortunately,when you run a repair business you are a target for lawsuits.garages have been sued(successfully)for only putting 2 snow tires on a car instead of 4 after some lawyer found out after the crash that the customer was'nt warned by the tire shop not to buy just 2.moral of the story:everything costs a little more in this country because businesses have to cover their butts and protect themselves from frivilous litigation brought on by blood thirsty money grubbin" lawyers.

the auto shop i worked in in ny would only repair a tire with an inside plug/patch combo.his minimum fee for this was 25.00.if the tire was full of fix a flat he charged an extra 10.00 to clean everything up.if the rim was corroded that was an extra 5.00 to grind it down and seal it.he was warned by his insurance company that if he did'nt repair tires by the inside patch method,he would'nt be covered in a lawsuit if a repaired tire failed.the only acceptable repair method recognized by the tire industry and insurance co's is the inside type.if you get a flat and the guy at the local garage just wants to slam a plug in there without taking the tire off the rim to examine it for damage,ask for an inside patch.plugs don't work.

rode dirt bikes for years(still do) and always worried about flats on the trail far away from civilization.i always carried extra tubes,co2 inflation devices,and tire irons.never once got a flat(although more than once i saved somebodys butt by being there with my stuff to help them with their flat).my friend that worked at the bike shop talked me into putting slime tubes in my tires. the first dual sport ride i went on the front tube failed and put me down hard in some rocks.i had fallen earlier in the day and smashed my left knee pretty good and this dump smashed my other knee.(forgot to pack my knee guards that day).ya ever try to change a tube on a bike in the woods without being able to kneel down to do it?tried sitting back against a tree with the rim in my lap and managed to ruin both of my spare tubes and use up all of my co2 in the process.luckily another rider came along with a tube and a mini 12v compressor that he powered off his bike and helped me get back going.never used anything labelled slime again.

hey,i am interested in the cap you have sale.i am in e tennessee.could you pm me with your asking price and phone #.thanks.