chicofuentes0224

Hey that's my ex-girlfriend. I always wondered where she got all that money :D

I think alot of people are using the equivalent from precision auto. You can get em on Ebay or search for it here. BLHTAZ has a post on it. I bought them.

Eagle, why do you recomend not using POR-15? What does everyone use to grind the rust down? (and could someone get me a picture of what it looks like?)

Ok guys, so we're all in basic agreement that due to the short distance in city driving I do we are basically right on the money for MPG in my situation. I'm not complaining because if I want to save on gas I'll just drive the 49cc scooter. I just wanted to make sure the truck is where it's supposed to be at mechanically. Anyway I didn't think the extremely large wing on the back or ground effects were going to add HP like the add said :rotfl2: One of these days I'll get on the turnpike and head out for a couple hours just to see what my highway mileage is. Oh and Hornbrod I can't remember off the top of my head what tooth count the speedo gear is. BLHTAZ got it for me and I'll check the post to let you know what it was. Thanks for all the replies guys :thumbsup:

I've read all the previous posts I could find. I have an 88 4.0 AW4 with 3.55 gears and I'm running 31x10.5x15 tires. The truck only gets driven twice a day. Four miles one way and four miles home. There are exactly three traffic lights between the four miles. The truck never sees over 40MPH. I've replaced all the sensors, injectors, filters, done a full tune up , put the correct speedo gear in, and even replaced the exhaust mani and gasket and down tube. When I bought the truck it did 10 mpg Now after everything has been changed I get 12-14MPG Here's my question. Is this normal, because if so I'll stop replacing parts? The engine does have 220,000 miles on it. I've read guys getting anything from 15-21 MPG. What do you guys think? Also, no wheels are draging due to brake problems.

I went to replace my parking brake cable today and after removing my bench seat and carpet found that the floor was a lot rustier than I thought. I actually have two small holes that were not holes until the metal that was in them left with my carpet. I read an earlier post that said someone put duct-tape over the holes after cleaning and prepping the rust and then applied POR-15 over the whole area . They said the POR-15 hardened the whole area well enough that no cutting or welding was neccesary. Here's my question. Do you guys think I can get away with the same move or should I cut out the whole area and weld new metal to it? I know the second option is better, but just wanted to know if the first one worked too. I will also be apllying the por-15 undercoating to the botom of the truck in the future. I'll post up pics of the rust damage later. The actual holes are smaller than a dime but the surounding area seems to also be weak.

I got my negative cable at Autozone, but now that I see how pretty Taz's are I might get them.

I personally think the cursing fixed it. Try that again next time. If not, a swift kick to the tire works wonders too :D Clean the terminals and take it to Autozone and have em check the battery.

It's all fun and games till someone gets an eyelash burnt off.

Change the battery. I was getting real heavy corrosion around my negative post. Changed the battery cable, used a felt pad and that gel they give you and I still get the corrosion. Oh and thanks Eagle, Now I'm going to check the alternator.

http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Eng ... ostics.htm thanks Wildman :thumbsup:

It could be a number of things. Most of the time it's a bad sensor. Someone post up the link to that LUNDG something site that has all the differnt ways to check your sensors and tells you what they do. If you haven't replaced your O2 sensor I'd probably start with that. And 15-17 mpg sounds great to me because I only get 10-12mpg. However I've seen people here get 18-25mpg. Who knows.

Yeah, I tried that too, but not only do I have fat hands, I also have short T-rex length arms and I found it uncomfortable to try and reach up while laying on the floor to spin em.

Oh, I fired my pizza guy due to drug and alchohol problems and considering the fact I'm the only one who knows how to do it in the shop with no applicants in sight that are worth a rat's rear end and closing the shop our three busiest days of the week is not an option I decided to take myself off the maybe list. Who knows, maybe the border patrol in AZ will fall asleep and let one slip thru between now and July :rotfl2: :rotfl2: :rotfl2: Seriously though, the good news is I'm saving a crap load on payroll that would have gone to new tires and a lift. However it's getting spent now on silly stuff, such as rear brakes, parking brake cables and those two bars up front I think they call tie rods or draglinks :rotfl2: Couple more parts and I'll have a brand new truck soon :D If however I by some miracle hire someone new and train them in time I'll see you guys there. Hey, if not, have a great time for me :thumbsup: And don't forget to take some good pictures :D

Pete are you by any chance starting a www.GrandCaravanClub.com site soon because I'm thinking of getting one fer the wife. :yes:

Not difficult. Just a pain if you have fat hands. uh ohhhh...... :oops: Yeah, so I have this problem too. I took the bolts holding the fan clutch off by turning around with my rearend to the truck and taking them off without looking at the truck. It was alot easier to get my hand in that way.

The ebrake cables from the junction box to the drums have just been replaced on my truck. My E brake is still not working though. So I ordered the cable from the pedal back. I haven't even looked at it yet but Is there anything special I should know before I go to replace it this week. I take it, it goes from the pedal assembly by the kick panel underneath the carpet to the back of the cab and out. Am I going to have to remove the seat and carpet to get to it or is it easier than that? I tried searching in the archives but couldn't find any info. I guess I'm just going to break down and finally buy a stinkin Chilton's for basic info. :rotfl2: So, any tips are greatly appreciated. :D

Not difficult. Just a pain if you have fat hands. 1)Take of the fan shroud. 2)Take off four bolts holding the fan clutch on. 3)Once the fan clutch is off remove the four bolts holding the fan to the old clutch and bolt it to the new one. 4)Now put everything back on in reverse. The only two problems I ran in to were that the four first bolts were stuck on to the pulley (PB plasted, problem fixed) and the second one was that the old clutch was hard to take off the pulley (used a bar and hammer to slowly loosen it by tapping the crease in between the two and rotating. Even then I think it only took a half hour.

I'm off the list :cry:

Well, I know for a fact that the last gauge you put in was calibrated correctly. :chillin: Here's what you can do. Start your engine up. When the temp gauge indicates 180*, disconnect the wire from the temp thermister and accurately measure the resistance between the thermister tip and ground. Stick the wire back on, and repeat at 210* then at normal running temperature. Let me know what these three resistance readings are. Not going to tell you what they should be so you're not looking for a certain resistance. :D Right, I'll get it done probably this weekend or early next week and let you know. Thanks Don. Jeff, I tried pulling the plastic cover off and moving the needle back by hand on an earlier gauge and all it did was move back toward the hot zone. I don't want to mess with the new one because Don has it working correctly for sure. Don, when you say the thermister tip, you mean the wire going to my temp sender on the head right?

Actually it's not a million, (probably like only two left :oops: ) Sorry, I have a knack for being dramatical. So, any idea on how I would go about checking for open loops or grounding issues. I'm sorry, I'm electrically illeterate. Edit: And a horrible speller. :D

Well I changed my temp gauge today with one that was recalibrated hoping that it would read somewhere close to 210* because that's what my engine is running at. However after swapping it out it still reads close to the red zone. Couple things. 1)This is the third gauge I've tried. All read at the same spot. 2)The temp sender on the back of the head has been replaced twice with brand new ones from NAPA. 3)The engine is not running as hot as the gauges have said. This has been verified with at least ten differnt laser thermometers by checking the thermostat housing and the temp right where the sensor goes into the back of the head. Both spots have always been under 210* So what are my options? 1)Try changing the temp sensor again with a differnt one from let's say Autozone or the dealer. 2)Try screwing with the needle on the gauge to get it at around 210* when the engine is hot. (Does anyone know how to do this because I tried but couldn't figure out how to "adjust" the needle.) 3)Live with the fact that the engine temp is great (thank the Gods) and that any stinkin gauge I put in will always run extremely close to the RED ZONE, because this God forsaken truck has about One million electrical problems. (I'm really not as upset as I sound, just frustrated that the darn thing doesn't work like it should.) Or does anyone else have any bright ideas? And NO, lighting the truck on fire is not an option. :brows:

Store the extra parts you were going to get rid of under the deck and put the lattis up to cover up the mess. That way if you end up needing any of the crap you were going to junk it'll be right under the grill. :D

My new one from NAPA doesn't spin 5 times when cold. I'll check it tommorow morning when it's cold , but I don't think it even goes around once.

Mine was the same.