512tr

is that real?! Maybe some drunk-driving snowmen..

i've got a killer ticking, so if anyone knows how to check for it without pulling it like he said... that'd be vital info. I think you should easily be able to hear the difference in ticking from the lifters vs ticking from a exhaust leak. A very common engine noise on the 4.0, is the valve-lifter ticking. On my MJ Renix this was only at start-up, when the engine is cold, did change oil yesterday and now the start-up noise is gone :-) On my YJ I did have some serious ticking, it was not constant but randomly came and went away, I did try internal motor wash, different oil types, but the ticking didn’t stop. So I pulled the head and replaced the lifters and the ticking was gone. Here’s the reason for the noise: In 2 of the 12 lifters, the piston inside was “stuck”, it didn’t go all the way to the top, leaving a 1 mm gap between the lifter and the pushrod.

Jeeps and dogs... Not a Jeep but a amacing picture with a dog and a "cheyota" rollover...

This is where I welded my old YJ(HO) manifold, will asume the renix cracks are similar. The welds held for 3 years.. It's now replaced by a Borla Stainless header. Don’t mix the ticking with the normal lifter ticking, on my 87 4.0 the lifters are noisy 3-5 seconds after cold start-up, until the lifters have sufficient oilpressure.

That correct, it could happen. If outside air is leaking (through a crack or leaking gasket) into the exhaust manifold, the O2 sensor will sense the oxygen in the air coming in, and send a increasing volt signal to the computer. The computer will “think” the level of oxygen in the exhaust is too high (lean mixture) and will increase the injectors bandwidth in order to richen the fuel mixture. As a result the engine will run too rich.

Battersea Generating Station, Chelsea UK. is on the cover of Pink Floyd's Animals album. Nice tribute to Pink Floyd.

My vote is the O2 sensor, it's the main controlling fuel sensor in a warm engine.. at idle and cruising. A non working O2 sensor will cause the engine to run rich, exept during acceleration/deceleration and at WOT.

Did this diagram in PowerPoint, think this is how the stock MJ wiring is. :roll:

Is it a switch on the mirror? If so, I think one of the wires have to go to 12V via a fuse, the other two have to be ground. One, to the door-switch grounding and the other to normal GND. Then the lights will come on: when you open one of the doors, use the dome switch on the main-light switch, or when you use the switch on the mirror.

They are the diagnostic connectors.

Here’s the common wiring for an aftermarket tach, I will assume you should connect the meter’s tach signal wire, to the tach out signal pin (pin C ) at the coil /ignition module

Here’s a Self Leveling Ambidextrous Cup Holders for XJ’s, guess it could be used in an MJ without any major modifications… 8) NSFW!! http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Int ... Holder.htm

383 stroker

Here's a good write-up replacing the rear main... http://www.myjeeprocks.com/features/ind ... stallation

TwistedSymphony, scary avatar you got there...Regan from The Exorcist, best horror movie ever. Check ot this!:ack:

In Europe it's only UK (England, Scotland and Irland) that have RHD and drive on the WRONG side of the road, in the rest of Europe, we drive on the RIGHT side of the road ;)

he,he.. the top of modern engines looks like a suitcase, but the little ‘thing’ under the “samsonite” cover is very powerfull to be only 3 litre. The press writes… 3.0-litre CRD diesel powerplant pops up all over the Chrysler, Jeep and Mercedes-Benz ranges and with good reason. Its one of the most impressive diesel engines money can buy. Its 218bhp output is capable of making a Mercedes C-Class feel indecently quick but when tasked with hauling the rather weightier Commander body about, it instead relies on its 510Nm of torque. This is more than even the Commanders range-topping V8 Hemi engine can manage. On the road it equates to a sprint to 60mph in 8.7 seconds and a top speed of 120mph. Economy is very respectable at 30.9mpg and emissions are rated at 284g/km. Even the new ‘old american’ Hemi, have the same Samsonite plastic look 8)

Thanks Don, but I already have the AW-4 manual….112 pages ? PM me your e-mail, then I could send you all 7 AW-4 circuit diagrams in a pdf file.

Did some clean-up on my lap top, did find some interesting AW4 Oil Circiut Diagrams Here is the 1st Gear in Drive position (I have pressure diagrams for all gear positions). Let me know if you want the other diagrams..

Due to my present work on a gas receiving plant, I needed a rental car for 6 months (require 4x4 diesel), and what was more natural than renting a Jeep, brand new, picked it up at the dealer. The Mercedes engine is impressive, 218 hp 3.0 CRD diesel It’s not an MJ, but ok for a rental car. :-)

As you can see I’m Norwegian... bought the paint over here, I think I paid ca. 30 USD for a liter. The black paint is Arcanol. I don’t think Jotun( the manufacturer) sell Jotun Arcanol in US, I know they have shops over there, but it’s mainly ship and marine paints.

I assume you have a manual trans, the TPS on the automatics use a dual function TPS (provide signal to the ECU and the AW4 TCU) Unsure if the HO TPS will communicate correct with the Renix ECU. Also, the HO TPS is non adjustable. Here is the 88 Renix and 93 HO wiring. -88 Renix wiring: 1) 5 volt supply…………………………LT BLU 2) TPS output (input to the ECU)…...…YEL/GRN 3) Sensor ground……………………….BRN/WHT -93 HO wiring: 1) 5 volt supply…………………………VIO/WHT 2) TPS output (input to the PCM/TCU)..ORG/DK BLU 3) Sensor ground……………………….BLK/LT BLU Keep us updated :-)

Regarding the engine management you have the same sensors as the automatic. When you step the pedal, two sensors are instantly activated, TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure). The TPS is connected to the throttle blades on the TB (Throttle Body), and send a increasing volt signal to the PCM (Power Control Module) as the throttle blades opens (you floor the pedal). The TPS hooks directly to the throttle blades to tell the PCM via a voltage signal not only how far the throttle is open or closed, but also the rate at which the throttle opening is changing. At idle (throttle plate closed) the output signal to the PCM is +0.2 volt and the volts increase as the plate opens, at WOT the volt should be just below 4,8 volt. The MAP sensor read the absolute pressure (vacuum) in the inlet manifold, and send an increasing signal to the PCM as the throttle plate opens and the absolute pressure increases (vacuum decreases) in the manifold. Output voltage with ignition on (no start) 4-5 volts, and at idle 1,5-2,1 volt. Both these sensors send increasing volt signals to the PCM, in order to supply more fuel, by increasing the time the injectors are open. You also better check your fuel pressure, should be 31 PSI at idle and 39 PSI at WOT, (31PSI with vacuum connected to the fuel pressure regulator, and 39 psi without the vacuum hose connected)

I don’t think it will help to replace the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor have one mission: Send signals to the PCM to maintain the AFR to 14,7:1, but under certain conditions this AFR is too lean. When the engine is cold, when acceleration/deceleration and at WOT (ca. +60-70% throttle opening) the engine is in open loop….it needs a mixture richer than 14.7 AFR (leaner during deceleration). So when the engine accelerate, it switch into open loop and the PCM mainly use signals from the MAP, TPS and CPS sensors to determine the correct fuel table to use. The o2 sensor signals is only used by the PCM/ECU in closed loop operations, in open loop conditions the signals are ignored. The problem" with not getting enough fuel at high RPM", is also new to me. I have two 4.0L HO's and one Renix and have never experienced or read about the”downfalls of the mighty 4.0”.

Did have the same problem, the vacuum control switch on the transfer was not working. Inside the control switch it’s a piston with o-rings, when you put the transfer in 4x4 the vacuum is routed to the shift motor. The piston was stuck inside the control switch, so when putting the transfer into 2x4, vacuum were still applied to the axel shift motor.